The classic trench coat has loosened up a bit. You could even say it's gone soft.

“This spring, we are seeing a fresh and modern take on the classic trench coat with the use of soft fabrics and modern detailing,” says Geoffrey Henning, divisional vice president of product development and design at J.C. Penney.

“(It's) a departure from the more classic, preppy, utility use of the trench of past seasons. The soft approach allows the trench to be worn during the day, out to dinner and softens the approach of layered dressing.”

The classic trench is a key piece in any wardrobe — serving as a casual coat or an elevated outerwear option, depending on the accompanying outfit.

The new soft trench is more elegant and appears modern when paired with boyfriend jeans and a sweatshirt. Pair the new trench with a jumpsuit and heels, and you've elevated to an entirely new look, Henning says.

Lightweight fabric trench coats are everywhere, says Gregg Andrews, Nordstrom fashion director.

“Those fabrics can be really silky, which makes them super-packable, great for travel,” he says. “They also give a woman a little more of a feminine feeling, because they aren't so stiff. They are more streamlined and cut closer to the body.”

Nothing offers the versatility of a classic gray or khaki trench coat. It will go with anything in your closet and plays the perfect neutral canvas for the feminine floral and bold graphic trends of this spring.

While it's fine to stick with classic colors, Andrews says other hues offer more fashion flair than the military-inspired version. Maybe a light pink or blue to give a nice change for spring and summer. Andrews says he's seeing colors from traditional tan to red, navy and black.

“They look cool and unexpected,” Andrews says of the new coats. “And because they have a lot of detail, you don't really need to have them in a print or pattern.”

Some fun florals and conversational prints are out there, as well as new fabrics like suede, silk and linen. Details like pleats, lace applique, piping and color blocking can keep the look young and fresh.

There are two modern lengths for spring: A shorter hemline that hits just above the knee is perfect when paired with a vibrant pencil skirt. A longer-length trench that hits below the knee can be great with softer slim pants or leggings.

The trench shape is such a classic, and rigid fabrics are a strong part of the structure of the look, says Abbey Samet, Macy's fashion director. But, she says, designers have had some fun with the new fabrics, giving the coat a relaxed feel with a more draped and refined look.

Fashion is now about mixing ideas. Depending on the details of the trench — like the belt or collar — it can appear refined in a dressed-up career look or dressed-down with jeans and a fun pair of wedges.

The longer mid-calf length trench coats are in line with the newest pant shapes for spring: the flare and the culotte.

The new trench design “makes it different and modern,” says Lynette Pone McIntyre, fashion market director for Lucky magazine, which did a piece on what McIntyre calls “the new trench” in its March issue. “Everyone loves a trench coat.”

She says the tradition of wearing it belted helps create an hourglass shape, which is a more polished look no matter what the fabric. McIntyre often takes the belt and ties it in the back of the coat for a bowlike look.

“That way, the belt stays in place, and it still looks trendy and fun,” she says.

It's best to pair a less-structured trench coat with a nice stovepipe pant, McIntyre says, or with a dress, which feels so spring. Her rule is to keep the trench the same length as the dress.

“I feel like I wear my trench three of the four seasons,” she says. “It is so versatile and has that classic shape.”

Because nearly all designers do a trench coat, from high- to low-end, they are available in a wide price range, McIntyre says.

Her advice: It might be worth paying a bit more for a coat that can take you from the office to dinner and still look polished, especially in a silk or cotton-blend fabric.

Andrews agrees: “They are timeless, and your cost per wear is going to be relatively low, especially if you buy one with a removable lining. It can take you from spring to early winter.”

JoAnne Klimovich Harrop is a staff writer for Trib Total Media. She can be reached at jharrop@tribweb.com or 412-320-7889.

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