Pittsburgh-area jewelry makers create pieces that really 'pop'
You can't find an R2-D2 engagement ring in your standard jewelry store, but designer Paul Michael Bierker of Hampton often turns to pop culture when making necklaces, rings, earrings and bracelets.
It's the passion behind these unusual pieces that make his Paul Michael Design collection sought after, clients say. They search him out through his website, paulmichaeldesign.com, as well as custommade.com.
That's where Joe Pagani of Bergenfield, N.J., offered an idea for a robot-type engagement ring he had in mind for his then-girlfriend, now his wife, Emily.
“I posted the project of what I wanted and I was elated when Paul reached out to me,” Pagani says. “After our first few conversations, I knew he would be the guy to create this ring. I knew I was going out on a limb with this idea of a ‘Star Wars' ring because it was different and a little unconventional, but that is what I wanted.
“My wife and I are kids of the '80s, and ‘Star Wars' was big for us. R2-D2 is a protector and the ring could be a symbol that she could carry with her every day.”
Bierker, 47, opened a design studio and showroom earlier this month in Lawrenceville where his work, as well as that from others, is displayed. Since 2011, he was in a shared space called The Collection in Shadyside with designers Ron McNeish and Karen Bournias. He started his business in 1988 in a home studio and worked for a while for Grafner Brothers, a fine-jewelry store in Pine. Bierker credits them all with helping him grow and learn the business.
“It's about the customer,” Bierker says. “My custom work focuses on the needs of the client, above all else. We think outside the jewelry box and try to innovate with everything we do. Simple as that. Huge ideas in little boxes.”
His ideas stem from passions such as a “Star Wars” character to “Wonder Woman,” “Harry Potter” and “Doctor Who.” He has pre-made pieces available for sale, too.
“As an artist, I love being creative,” says Bierker.
He loves working with all materials, but says platinum is his favorite, because it is malleable, but its tight molecular structure can also make it strong.
Bierker's decision to move to Lawrenceville supports his dedication to the city.
“We are proud of being part of the revitalization of Lawrenceville,” he says. “We have been watching the neighborhood for years. It's authentic and genuine. It's willing to fight for its place as the Pittsburgh cool place to be.”
The 1,550-square-foot store is comprised of a showroom and complete manufacturing space, which includes some of the latest technology in jewelry manufacturing, such as 3D printing, CAD software and product-visualization technologies.
There is a design bar, where clients can have one-on-one consultations about the custom piece of jewelry they want, and an engagement and wedding-ring viewing area. The place runs with a staff of four and turns out several products each day.
Bierker uses customization software to help a customer visualize a piece of jewelry. He can build a piece from scratch or change an existing piece.
“The customer is involved, engaged in the process the whole way through,” he says. “They can see the piece being made because the work area is in view. I will make anything anyone wants as long as it's not derogatory.
“I follow pop culture and our Facebook community is massive. We speak to the passions of what people want, to help them create a unique piece in the marketplace through our artistic eye.”
He creates using Old World techniques, such as carving jewelry from wax, and using computers to design and show options to a customer. Software allows for instant photos of what the piece will look like.
“Consumers are much more engaged and they want to be part of the process,” Bierker says. “So, there is no curtain in the store. They can look at what we are doing with their piece of jewelry. The studio is wide-open, and you can watch someone working on your ring if you want to.”
He prefers working with local suppliers to help support area businesses, he says. Erez Amram of Erez Amram Diamonds, Downtown, has been working with Bierker for six years.
“Paul Michael is extremely professional and personable,” Amram says. “He creates some crazy designs, but they are fun. He has an unbelievable sense of style.”
“This business has been a blessing,” says Bierker, who has sold pieces priced from $50 to $50,000. The typical engagement ring is $2,500 to $18,000.
“We have worked hard and stayed true to our core values of what people want from a jeweler,” he says. “I am the designer but you are the vehicle for my work. Nothing is too big or too small. I am grateful for every piece.”
Paul Michael Design, 3453 Butler St., Lawrenceville. Hours: 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays, and by appointment. Details: 412-486-2016 or paulmichaeldesign.com
JoAnne Klimovich Harrop is a staff writer for Trib Total Media. She can be reached at jharrop@tribweb.com or 412-320-7889.
