Squared jacket: Boxy shapes can flatter your figure
You certainly won't look square in a boxy jacket if you wear it properly.
“A boxy jacket creates an angular shape, which means it's a square on the top of your body,” says Gregg Andrews, Nordstrom fashion director. “For this jacket to look right, you need to elongate the bottom part of your body.”
There are plenty of ways to do that, from wearing a skinny pant with a stripe down the side to a pencil skirt — and heels help when trying this trend.
A jacket is considered boxy if it is slightly cropped and accentuates the hips and volume happening on the bottom of your outfit, says Josh Saterman, Macy's vice president, fashion director. Pair it with a maxi skirt and boots for a fantastic look, he says.
“The boxy jacket gives figure to the body,” Saterman says. “It's amazing with mixed fabrics and shapes whether it be the bomber, blazer or moto jacket. Pairing it with soft pants, skirts — like the maxi or skater — are all fabulous options to give you shape and proportions that speak to your body type.”
Proportion is key, fashion stylists agree.
Boxy jackets might seem like a challenge to wear, says Suzanne Mauro, a stylist accredited by the Association of Image Consultants International and producer of “Style Everday with Suz” on PCTV, but pair them with a leaner silhouette on the bottom, and they will flatter your figure.
She says to choose a style that is snug on the shoulders and upper chest. It is fine if the jacket drapes from the chest down, as long as it is tailored on top.
She suggests one with three-quarter-length sleeves, because it will emphasize your arm length. It is also a good idea to wear a longer-length top underneath.
“It will draw attention to your waistline, and re-establish that long, lean line we love,” Mauro says. “Boxy jackets, if worn correctly, can make you feel powerful and confident.”
The boxy jacket foundation is about architecture, says Geoffrey Henning, divisional vice president of design, women's apparel for J.C. Penney.
“In most cases this silhouette is short at the waist or above and is either collarless or with a Peter Pan collar,” Henning says. “The silhouette breaks up the proportion of the body and actually elongates to create height. The silhouette can be extremely flattering on all body shapes and heights.”
It is a most versatile silhouette because it is not shaped to the body, but because it can actually be worn many ways, Henning says. He says to choose a look in winter whites and bold statement colors, especially all shades of pink. It is also great in bold patterns such as houndstooth and plaid, but the ultimate boxy jacket would be in fur, long-haired to short and always in faux, Henning says.
Saterman says mixed media is the newest way to try this trend. Combining different fabrics or treatments using the boxy jacket as a blazer alternative or a third piece during the cooler evenings for a night on the town is also a great option, Saterman says.
A boxy jacket can have a collar and can be anywhere from waist to hip-bone length, Andrews says. Just don't wear boxy over boxy.
“Because then, you end up having no shape,” Andrews says. “You have to avoid cutting yourself in two equal parts, because then, you haven't elongated any part of your body. Also, don't belt it. That defeats the purpose of the boxy jacket. When worn right, they can be sexy and very flattering.”
The boxy jacket works for most body types, says Gwendolyn Covington, a style editor for zappos.com. It is short enough that it won't fall unflatteringly over a large bottom so it sits right above, roomy enough that it can cover a thicker middle, and has great squared-off shoulders which give the illusion of height and good posture, Covington says.
She agrees with the other stylists that the contrast of something long underneath gives balance to your overall look.
“Pairing something short under a boxy jacket would shorten your torso area which leads to what most women dread — an undefined shape not showing or accenting any curves,” Covington says.
“The newest style is the motorcycle design. Since the '90s, a boxy jacket has not really been the sought-after item to own, so making the design cooler without changing the actual silhouette of the jacket seems to be trending. Zippers are now asymmetrical.
“Boxy jackets now have mixed fabrics like wool or boucle with leather or suede trimming. That is right on trend with all the mixed media designs for fall and winter.”
Andrews says the silhouette creates a dramatic effect with clean lines and a minimalist look. “I wouldn't add a lot of jewelry to this look either, maybe a simple gold bangle bracelet. Let the interesting shape stand on its own,” he says.
JoAnne Klimovich Harrop is a staff writer for Trib Total Media. She can be reached at jharrop@tribweb.com or 412-320-7889.