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A la carte: Some important thoughts on chives
Chives, long, quill-shaped stalks, have a mild, oniony taste and aroma. (John Dziekan/Chicago Tribune/MCT)
Aliza Green, a Philadelphia chef and author of several cookbooks as well as “Field Guide to Herbs and Spices” (Quirk, 2006) offers his take on chives:
They are part of a classic fines herbes blend that can include parsley, chervil, thyme and tarragon. I like them paired with tarragon best. Chive blossoms can come on strong, so discard the purple petals and stir the remaining head of the blossom into risottos or cold soups such as vichyssoise.
Use a sharp knife or kitchen scissors to chop chives, as opposed to slicing them. You will be cutting across lengthy fibers, and the cleaner cut will keep them from becoming slimy.
• Pasta doughs, bread doughs and quiches can take a lot of chives — a big handful if you're making fresh pasta for four people.
• Blend them into panko crumbs to use as a coating for fish.
• Fold them into ricotta cheese; stir them into risottos or cold soups such as vichyssoise.
• Cover a bunch of finely chopped chives with just enough oil to coat, and cover them. Refrigerate for several weeks.
• Make a salsa verde with finely chopped parsley, capers, green olives and/or cornichons. The pickled components provide acid but won't discolor the chives, as vinegar would.
• When you pick the chives, you have to assess their moisture content in order to store them properly in the refrigerator. If they seem dry, wrap them in a damp paper towel. If they are wet, put them in dry paper toweling.
Cream soda varietals
Village Candy in Sewickley has scheduled another in its soda-tasting series, this time featuring delicious cream soda. The free tasting will be held from 5:30 to 6:30 p.m. July 27.
A good cream soda should remind you of the very best vanilla ice-cream float. “This is actually our fourth ‘cream o' the crop' event, and it should be a humdinger,” says shop owner Doug Alpern. New vintages will be unleashed for this tasting for the first time in Pittsburgh, including Jersey Cream and Bedford's Cream.
Registration is required to participate. Send an email to cream@villagecandy.com. Details: 412-741-1490
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