Aji Picante in Squirrel Hill offers flavors with a Peruvian twist

P&G's Pamela's Diners owners Pam Cohen and Gail Klingensmith had visited Peru several times over a period of decades, and had become good friends with a Peruvian family when one of them, chef Jose Luis del Solar, visited from New York.

Klingensmith had just about finished negotiating a lease for new space on Murray Avenue in Squirrel Hill, and mentioned it during the dinner del Solar prepared for her and Cohen.

“The space was so big,” Klingensmith recalls saying. During dinner came the idea that perhaps the women should open a Peruvian restaurant in the extra space, and perhaps del Solar should be its executive chef.

“ ‘Well, I wasn't really planning' ” a change, del Solar told Klingensmith. But he has family in Pittsburgh: an aunt, Luisa Porras, who owns La Feria, a Peruvian handicrafts shop above Pamela's in Shadyside, along with Klingensmith and Cohen. Porras, at one time, owned a Peruvian shop in London that sold Lady Diana the pink hand-knit sweater she wore when her engagement to Prince Charles was announced during a 1981 country walk.

Through this element of kismet, Aji Picante opened a year ago adjacent to Pamela's in Squirrel Hill. The name Aji Picante means “Spicy Pepper,” and refers to a staple of Peruvian cuisine, a hand-ground puree using the aji pepper and oil. Ethnic-food sections and stores stock the prepared sauce, but del Solar's family customarily makes its own.

“I've known Pam and Gail since I was a child,” says executive chef del Solar, 39.

Klingensmith says his ancestors include a former president of Peru and one of the country's premier hostesses. Del Solar came to the United States in 2003 to work as a chef in Rhode Island and New York City. His excellent English is barely accented courtesy of his English grandmother, who spoke to him in her native language.

“We have a fantastic coastline, and amazing, amazing fish,” del Solar says of his native country. “That's why we have so many Japanese immigrants.”

When Peruvians prepare or order fish at restaurants, “we know that fish was swimming four hours ago in the ocean.” In Pittsburgh for just 18 months, del Solar knows Pittsburgh's industrial giants at the turn of the previous century were so fond of seafood, they had it transported by rail from the ocean. Several seafood dishes are on Aji Picante's menu.

Peruvian cuisine includes lots of stews and soups. One of Aji Picante's offerings is Chupe, a Peruvian dish that combines seafood and soup in a bouillabaisse with clams, Prince Edward Island mussels, calamari and shrimp. The $22 dish is served in a tarragon-infused broth.

Del Solar prepares a Pollo al Horno that is close to Peruvian chicken, but is roasted instead of traditionally prepared on a rotisserie, which the restaurant kitchen does not have. The half-chicken is marinated in aji panca, andserved with a starch or vegetable of the day, Argentinian chimichurri and aji amarillo aioli for $18.

Manager Rise Cohen, Pam's sister, worked for P&G Pamela's Diners years ago; “Now, I'm back,” she says.

Rise Cohen is delighted when she sees customers so enthusiastic about the Seco de Cerdo that they actually pick up the pork shank in their hands to eat it. The crisped pork shank is served over Canary bean puree, topped with butternut squash, carrots and peas in a dark beer and cilantro sauce for $21. Entrees run from $17 to $22.

While the restaurant serves no alcohol, it does feature several traditional Peruvian drinks that are nonalcoholic, including Chicha Morada, which is made of purple maize simmered with pineapple, quince, cinnamon and cloves, and costs $5. Desserts include Suspira de Limena, or “sigh of Limena,” a Peruvian-style dulce de leche named for the wife of a Peruvian poet.

Klingensmith calls Peru “the Paris of South America” for its culinary creativity, attention to detail and taste.

Aji Picante's dining room is modern, and is accented with colorful Peruvian textiles and hand-carved mirrors adorn the walls. Examples of traditional pottery from the village of Chulucanas in northern Peru are on display. One notable accent is a large Peruvian gourd, its entire surface elaborately carved with pictures of native Peruvian animals, birds, trees and other features of that South American country.

The restaurant seats about 80, including a dozen seats outside.

Sandra Fischione Donovan is a contributing writer for Trib Total Media.

While some Peruvian restaurants are known for their chicken, Aji Picante executive chef Jose Luis del Solar is a seafood aficionado. Born in Lima and raised on the Peruvian coast, he grew up noting the culinary influence of many Japanese immigrants to Peru.

The Peruvian Ceviche dish del Solar chose to share with Cooking Class readers combines the flavors of Peru — such as lime juice and cilantro — with raw marinated fish cut sashimi-style. The combination of contrasting, fresh ingredients produces an explosion of flavors with a spicy Peruvian accent.

For the marinated fish:

10 ounces red snapper (cod, tilapia, halibut or grouper also may be used)

3 medium-size limes, juiced

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon ginger

½ teaspoon minced garlic

3 tablespoons Peruvian chili pepper aji amarillo paste (available at Latino food stores or in ethnic sections of some local supermarkets)

Pinch of freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons cilantro, finely chopped

For the garnish:

1 medium-size sweet potato, boiled in orange juice, with cinnamon, if desired, thickly sliced, divided

½ cup cancha corn (available at Reyna's in the Strip District and ethnic aisles of grocery stores), cooked in oil in a heavy pot and sprinkled generously with salt, divided

2 cooked shrimp, divided

2 boiled clams, divided

Peruvian chili pepper aji amarillo paste, for garnish

½ cup red onion, julienned, divided

1 ear of corn, cooked and cut in half, divided

To prepare the marinated fish: Slice the raw fish thinly against the grain, sashimi-style. Place in a bowl with the remaining ingredients (see Photos 1-2) and marinate from 1 minute to 1 hour (Photo 3).

To prepare the garnish: Place a thick slice of sweet potato in the center of each of two plates and half the marinated fish over each slice (Photo 4). Garnish each plate with the cancha corn, one shrimp and one clam. Spoon extra amarillo paste (Photo 5) over the fish and garnish with half the red onion on each plate (Photo 6). Serve with the corn on the side.

Makes 2 servings as an appetizer or light meal.