Author: Timing meals is an elusive skill
Pulling together a dinner party is not so much about mastery of individual recipes as it is about getting all those tasty dishes on the table, hot and ready, at the same time.
Those facing their extended family over a browned turkey breast this Thanksgiving might already be feeling anxious little nags and bouts of nervousness.
For Gail Monaghan, the long quest to help home cooks accomplish culinary timing has led to her newest cookbook, “It's All in the Timing: Plan, Cook, and Serve Great Meals With Confidence” (Agate Publishing, $29.95).
“I've taught cooking for 20 years, and the question my students ask me most often is, ‘How do I do that, timing wise?' ‘How much can I do it ahead?' ” she says.
It was a question she asked herself years ago.
As a young woman, Monaghan operated a design business but closed it when she had children. When ready to work again, she looked around for inspiration.
“I always liked cooking, so I thought I'd go to professional cooking school and, hopefully, come up with something good from it,” she says.
After graduating from the Institute of Culinary Education (then called Peter Kump's) in 1991, that “something good” included creating gourmet cookies and scones for New York eateries such as Dean & Deluca. Her cookbooks include “Lost Desserts,” “Some Like It Hot” and “Perfect Picnics for All Seasons.” Monaghan writes a how-to column for the Wall Street Journal, and she might be recognized from her appearances on ABC's “The Chew.” She started teaching cooking classes in 1997 in her Manhattan loft.
But even after her culinary education, she found she still lacked that elusive skill.
“I went to cooking school and realized I could make all these things, but I still didn't have it easily at my fingertips how to make a whole dinner party and how to make it all come out on time,” she says. “So over the years, I have made a point of figuring out what I can do ahead.”
“It's All in the Timing” is as organized as her time tables. Each chapter includes complete meals — Rustic Brunch, Candlelight Soiree and French Country Dinner, for example — paired with a scheduled “Order of Preparation” for day-by-day and hour-by-hour instruction. Handy icons help the cook stay on track from start to finish. Alongside the recipes are handy tips for a learn-as -you go experience.
“I loved cooking school,” she says. “It taught me a tremendous amount. It just didn't turn out to be the things that would help me get the food on the table at the right time.
“I was just surprised I couldn't do it any better than I could before,” she says, laughing.
Unlike cooking in a restaurant kitchen, where there are prep cooks, sous chefs and an army of others, the home cook lacks the support staff.
That's' why Monaghan promotes the idea to do as much in advance as possible.
But through all the planning and preparation, keep in mind, too, the meal is not the only reason to cook dinner for friends.
“For me, I like bringing people together,” Monaghan says. “I like when they feel nurtured and well-fed. It's gratifying to me when they have a good time and like the food.
“But I don't think it's just the food. There's something about a convivial, festive, cozy, inclusive atmosphere that you can pull off. And I think you can pull it off infinitely better if you're more relaxed and not all stressed and crazed.”
Sally Quinn is a Tribune-Review contributing writer.
Caramelized Onion and Goat Cheese Crostata
Recipe from “It's All in the Timing: Plan, Cook, and Serve Great Meals With Confidence” (Agate Publishing, $29.95)
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 medium (about 2 pounds) Vidalia, red or other sweet onions, very thinly sliced
2–3 sprigs fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon of dried thyme
1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1⁄2 recipe Savory Crostata Crust (see recipe), cold but still pliable
1⁄2 cup crumbled goat cheese, feta or ricotta salata
1 large egg, for egg wash (optional)
1 tablespoon heavy cream, for egg wash (optional)
One day before: Heat the oil in a large skillet set over medium heat. Add the onions, thyme and salt. Cook, stirring frequently, for 30 minutes, or until the onions are lightly colored and the excess liquid has evaporated. Taste and adjust salt and pepper as needed.
Transfer to a plate or bowl to cool completely. Warm onions will melt the dough. Cover and refrigerate if not using within a few hours.
Tip: If you've made the Onion Crostata earlier in the day but want to serve it warm, reheat it in a 375-degree oven for 5 to 10 minutes.
1½ hours before: Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the Savory Crostata Crust (still on its parchment paper) on a cookie sheet and, leaving a 1 1⁄2-inch border all around, evenly sprinkle it with the goat cheese. Top with the cooled onions.
Fold the dough's border up over the filling and press into place. The dough should be cool but not brittle. If it starts to break, let it warm up for a few more minutes. If it's too soft to work with, put the crostata in the fridge until the dough hardens up.
If using, mix the egg with the cream. Brush the crust edges with the egg wash. The wash is not necessary, but it gives the finished crust an attractive golden sheen.
Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, or until the filling is piping hot and the crust is golden brown.
Transfer the crostata to a wire rack to cool for at least 10 minutes. (The crostata will keep at room temperature for at least 5 hours.)
Serve warm or at room temperature.
Tip: Most fruit or vegetable crostatas, pies, and tarts can be assembled and stored in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours before baking.
Makes 6 generous main-course servings.
Savory Crostata Crust
Recipe from “It's All in the Timing: Plan, Cook, and Serve Great Meals With Confidence” (Agate Publishing, $29.95)
Note: This recipe can be made entirely with all-purpose flour instead of including whole wheat.
1 1⁄2 cups all-purpose flour
1⁄2 cup whole-wheat flour (see note)
3⁄4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (2 1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, very cold and cut into small chunks
4–6 tablespoons ice water
One day before: Put both of the flours and the salt in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until combined.
Add the butter and toss with a fork. Pulse in 1 to 2 second bursts until most of the butter is the size of small peas.
With the motor on, pour 3 tablespoons of the ice water through the feed tube. Pulse until no dry patches remain and the dough begins to come together. Squeeze a handful of dough. If it does not cohere, add the remaining 1 tablespoon of water, pulse, and try again. The dough should remain fairly dry and under no circumstances should it form a ball when pulsed in the machine.
Turn the dough out onto a work surface. Form into 2 equal balls and place 1 in the center of a large piece of parchment paper and flatten into a disk. Place another piece of parchment paper on top of the disk and hit it a few times with a rolling pin to flatten somewhat more. Then roll the dough into a circle approximately 13 inches in diameter.
Repeat with the other disk.
Fold the parchment sheets around each of the rolled crusts and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight before using. For longer storage, also wrap in foil.
Tips: Make the Crostata Crust with a food processor, electric mixer or by hand. In each case, remember to work quickly and don't overprocess. Start with very cold butter and use as little liquid as possible.
Most people don't realize this, but when rolling out dough for any pie crust, it's perfectly fine to cut and piece the dough as you go along, adjusting to make sure the crust stays reasonably circular. If the dough becomes too sticky to do this easily, refrigerate until manageable. After the crust is rolled into an acceptable circle, use a small sharp knife or pizza cutter to tidy the edges.
Makes 2 crusts or 1 large crust.
Candied Pecan Tart
Recipe from “It's All in the Timing: Plan, Cook, and Serve Great Meals With Confidence” (Agate Publishing, $29.95)
1 pound pecan halves or pieces
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 tablespoons dark-brown sugar
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
Large pinch of fine sea salt
3 tablespoons honey
6 tablespoons heavy cream
1 store-bought prebaked pie crust (10 inches)
Best-quality vanilla ice cream, for serving (optional)
Heat oven to 350 degrees.
Place pecans on a sheet pan and toast for 10 minutes, or until very hot. Be careful they don't burn.
Meanwhile, in a large saucepan set over medium heat, melt the butter with the brown and granulated sugars and salt. Add the honey and simmer for 5 minutes, or until lightly caramelized or a candy thermometer registers 250 degrees. Remove from the heat. Add the cream and the still-hot nuts. Stir well. If necessary, return to low heat to reliquify and combine.
Pour the nut mixture into the prebaked piecrust, even it out, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the center bubbles a bit. Let rest for 20 minutes before serving or cool completely, wrap in foil, and store at room temperature.
If reheating, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Bake for about 5 minutes.
Serve warm or at room temperature with the vanilla ice cream.
Tips: Other than many fresh fruit pies, most pies can be assembled 24 hours in advance and stashed in the fridge to be baked when needed. This is also true for lasagnas and other baked pastas, many of which can even be frozen for 3 months — and then thawed — before baking.
This pie divides into 12 very small pieces. However, with ice cream and samplings of other buffet desserts — this should be plenty. If, however, this is the only dessert you are serving, for 12 people you might consider doubling the recipe and baking 2 pies.
Makes 12 small servings.
