Southern field peas — of which the purple-hull variety is one, and the better-known, black-eyed variety, another — are the masochists of the vegetable kingdom. They like it relentlessly hot and humid, they weather droughts without blinking, and they grow in soil few other plants would survive in. In the mid-Atlantic, they do just fine.

Around mid-July most years, they begin trickling into farmers markets, plump pods heaped high, the pink eyes distinctive for their inky hulls and maroon eyes, the shelled black-eyeds still bearing a tint of green. In a heavy pot over a medium flame, they'll cook quickly to tender-yet-firm, their delicate flavor tasting of good soil and a hot sun.

These are the peas hoppin' John was made for.

Yet, those two varieties are among dozens that exist, with flavors as varied as their markings. There are little black peas, tawny tan peas speckled with confetti, peas dressed like a Holstein cow. There are red peas; fat, square-shouldered crowder peas; and dainty peas in creamy beige, like the White Acre (one of the best, some say, for company or special occasions).

Ira Wallace, one of the worker-owners of Southern Exposure Seed Exchange and the author of the “Timber Press Guide to Vegetable Gardening in the Southeast,” is well-versed in Southern pea culture and cultivation. “I don't think I've met a pea I don't like,” she said. But everyone has favorites.

Wallace cites the pretty calico crowders, splotched with burgundy; the little tan washday peas, whose quick cooking time fits busy schedules; and the Peking Black Crowders, which she appreciates for a sly bait-and-switch: “I can cook them up and make a refried bean that I can foist off on young and old alike as Mexican food.”

Deep in the Southern states, field peas are as classic as pecan pie, and a dozen varieties might appear at one market in a single day. Their zany names— Red Ripper, Big Boy, Stick-up, Pole Cat and Dixielee — are a map of micro-regional preferences, in which gardeners and farmers selected varieties that suited their particular climates and tastes. They are a reflection of how deeply entrenched peas are in the South's culinary history, originally as a food of slaves, then as a survival raft for generations of the Southern poor, black and white alike, who ate them only because they didn't have much choice.

“Those who had a little more money, they ate something else,” Wallace said.

Time heals some wounds. Like many native Southerners today, I await field-pea season with a mix of sentimentality and salivation. Enjoying them is as much about the familiar process of shelling them into a bucket and working blisters into my thumbs as sitting down at a table with a mess of them in front of me.

Part of the appeal of fresh peas is that they cook quickly and, like fresh shell beans, require no soaking. They will cook to just tender within 20 to 30 minutes at a simmer, but longer and slower cooking — an hour or two — gives the broth a chance to develop richer body and flavor.

Traditionally, field peas stand on their own. If you never serve them any other way, you won't go wrong; much field-pea affection has come out of a plate of vegetables with a pile of peas at its heart and a piece of cornbread on its arm.

Emily Horton is a contributing writer for The Washington Post.

Basic Field Peas

This method works for any type of field pea, although more mature peas (with drier hulls) will take slightly longer to cook.

Okra deepens the flavor of the pot liquor here, and the spent pods, for anyone not put off by their viscous texture, are delicious. For a meatier, richer broth, you can also add a piece of ham, salt pork or bacon to the pot, in which case, you should omit the salt.

The cooked peas can be refrigerated in their cooking liquid for up to 4 days.

4 cups shelled field peas (see headnote)

4 cups water

1⁄2 teaspoon sea salt or smoked sea salt

5 or 6 pods okra, untrimmed (optional; see headnote)

Combine the field peas, water and salt in a medium saucepan over medium heat; arrange the okra on top, if using. When the liquid begins to bubble, reduce the heat to low; cover and cook the peas for 20 to 30 minutes, or until tender.

Reserve the okra to serve on the side, if desired, or discard it. Serve the peas warm.

Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 130 calories, 1 gram fat (0 saturated), 0 cholesterol, 4 grams protein, 27 grams carbohydrates, 7 grams dietary fiber, 270 milligrams sodium

Peas and Greens With Tomato, Green Onions and Dill

This dish is incredibly variable. Field peas of all types taste good with most leafy greens, so use what you like and can find. Mustard greens and turnip greens are especially good partners, but kale and collard greens work well, too.

You'll need to cook the field peas first so you have cooking liquid to use in this recipe. Serve with rice or grits.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, cut into small dice

2 large cloves garlic, crushed, then minced

1⁄2 teaspoon fine sea salt, divided

3⁄4 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 medium ripe tomato, peeled and finely chopped, with juices (see note)

1⁄2 cup field-pea cooking liquid (may substitute vegetable broth or water), divided

3 cups cooked field peas (such as black-eyed, purple-hull or crowder peas)

2 medium bunches leafy greens such as mustard, turnip, collards or kale, tough stems discarded and leaves cut into fat ribbons or bite-size pieces

1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

5 green onions, white and green parts, finely chopped

1⁄4 cup chopped dill

Heat the oil in a heavy saute pan or Dutch oven over medium heat. When the oil shimmers, stir in the onion, garlic and half of the salt; cook until the onion is translucent and just beginning to pick up color around the edges, for 8 to 10 minutes.

Add the lemon zest and stir for a few seconds, then add the tomato and its juices. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes or until the mixture has thickened slightly. Add 1⁄4 cup of the cooking liquid from the field peas; cook for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the field peas and stir to incorporate. Reduce the heat to low; add the greens and the remaining salt. Cover the pan and allow the greens to steam/wilt for 2 to 3 minutes, then gently turn them. Cover again and cook, gently turning the greens occasionally, until tender, for 5 to 15 minutes, depending on the variety of the greens and their maturity. If the greens seem to be drying out, add cooking liquid as needed; the mixture should be slightly saucy.

Stir in the pepper, green onions and the dill, then remove the pan from the heat and allow it to steam, covered, for 2 to 3 minutes.

Adjust the seasoning as needed; serve warm.

Note: To peel tomatoes, bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Have ready a bowl of ice water. Cut an X in the bottom of each tomato and remove the stem. Place them in the boiling water for 10 or 15 seconds, then use a slotted spoon to quickly transfer them to the ice water. The skins should slip off.

Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 220 calories, 11 grams fat (2 grams saturated), 0 cholesterol, 5 grams protein, 28 grams carbohydrates, 8 grams dietary fiber, 480 milligrams sodium

Potato Salad With Field Peas, Celery and Cherry Tomatoes

Field peas lend this salad enough substance to stand as a main course. In their absence, Spanish brown or French green lentils, which hold their shape well, are good substitutes.

The salad can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. If you plan to make it in advance, wait to add the tomatoes until just before serving, at room temperature.

Water, for boiling

1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided, or more as needed

2 pounds fingerling potatoes

1 red onion, thinly sliced

3 to 4 ribs celery, diced

2 tablespoons brined capers, rinsed and coarsely chopped

1 1⁄2 cups cooked field peas, well-drained

1⁄4 cup chopped flatleaf parsley, divided

1⁄4 cup regular or low-fat mayonnaise

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more as needed

1 pint cherry tomatoes, any color, each cut into quarters

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add half of the salt and the potatoes; cook for 10 to 15 minutes or just until the potatoes can be easily pierced with the tip of a sharp knife. Drain and rinse the potatoes with cool water.

When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, cut each one vertically into quarters (like thick slices), transferring them to a mixing bowl as you work, along with the onion, celery, capers, field peas and 3 tablespoons of the parsley.

Whisk the mayonnaise and the oil in a small bowl until blended, then whisk in the lemon juice. Season with the remaining salt and the pepper.

Pour the sauce over the potato mixture and toss to coat. Adjust the seasoning as needed. Gently fold in the tomatoes and serve, garnished with the remaining parsley.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Nutrition information per serving (based on 6, using low-fat mayonnaise): 240 calories, 9 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 0 cholesterol, 6 grams protein, 39 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams dietary fiber, 280 milligrams sodium

Field-Pea Fried Rice With Eggplant and Peppers

Although any rice will do here, the nuttiness of brown rice works particularly well with the nutty, creamy sweetness of the peas and the eggplant. If you like a little more heat and can find semi-hot sweet red peppers (like the so-called salsa peppers), use them here in place of some of the sweet peppers. If you prefer milder flavors, cut down on the amount of jalapeno, or leave it out altogether.

The fried rice can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.

1 pound slender Asian eggplant

1⁄4 cup peanut oil or sesame oil, divided

1 teaspoon fine sea salt, divided

1 medium onion, diced

12 ounces sweet red peppers, stemmed, seeded and diced

1 red jalapeno pepper or other hot red chile pepper, seeds and membranes removed for less heat, if desired, diced (optional)

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

3 cloves garlic, minced

3⁄4 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika (pimenton)

1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided

4 cups cooked day-old rice

1 1⁄2 cups cooked field peas, such as purple-hull or black-eyed, drained well

3 tablespoons minced chives (optional)

Trim the eggplant and cut it into cubes about 3⁄4-inch square.

Heat a large, flat-bottomed wok or wide, deep skillet over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon of the oil and swirl to coat; heat for 1 minute. Add the eggplant pieces and stir to coat. Cook, tossing occasionally, until their edges begin to crisp a little and turn golden, for 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer the eggplant to a platter and arrange in a single layer; season with 1⁄4 teaspoon of the salt.

Return the skillet to medium heat (with whatever oil is in it); add 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons of oil; heat for 1 minute. Add the onion and stir to coat; cook for 2 minutes, then add the sweet and hot peppers and 1⁄4 teaspoon of the salt. Cook until the onion is translucent and the peppers are picking up a little color around the edges, for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the thyme, garlic, smoked paprika and 1⁄4 teaspoon of the black pepper, and cook for 2 minutes.

Add the rice and 1⁄4 teaspoon of salt to the onion-pepper mixture in the skillet, stirring until well-coated. Cook for about 3 minutes, tossing and folding just occasionally to allow the rice to crisp on the bottom of the pan.

Add the field peas, tossing to incorporate. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until everything is heated through. Return the cooked eggplant to the pan, gently combine and cook for 1 minute or until just heated through.

Stir in the chives, if using, the remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon of salt and the remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon of pepper. Serve hot.

Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 450 calories, 16 grams fat (3 grams saturated), 0 cholesterol, 9 grams protein, 70 grams carbohydrates, 12 grams dietary fiber, 650 milligrams sodium

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