The three men had been at it since 6 in the morning, brewing beer the hard way.
Andy Rich, Steve Sloan and Matt Allyn were using a traditional “decoction” method for steeping hot grains. It would add time and complexity to making the double batch of India Pale Lager that would be served in four weeks at Pittsburgh Craft Beer Week.
They didn't have to put in the extra effort to produce a decent beer. But Allyn, the head brewer at Voodoo Brewery in Meadville, said it would be worthwhile.
“I truly believe it helps,” he said.
This is the kind of thing that any beer drinker in Pittsburgh should most want to hear. Allyn has been making beer longer than some of his customers have been alive. He is an expert at his craft and, yet, remains curious and open to innovation. He was working with two equally experienced professional brewers — Sloan, of Roundabout in Lawrenceville, and Rich, of Penn Brewery — who share his passion. They were willing to wake before the sun had risen to put in a long day because they wanted Pittsburghers to taste the best possible product during the city's annual celebration of beer that begins April 17.
The beer scene in Pittsburgh is still young and maturing. There are nearly 30 breweries, some expanding so quickly that their facilities are bursting at the seams like a toddler in month-old pajamas.
Many weren't even open this time last year. That includes Hitchhiker Brewery in Mt. Lebanon, whose head brewer Andy Kwiatkowski led the efforts to organize this year's Craft Beer Week as president of Pittsburgh Craft Beer Alliance.
It all began with Rich, who marvels at the industry's growth in Western Pennsylvania. He organized the first weeklong festival four years ago after discussing the idea at a party hosted by Penn.
“There are so many of these smaller brewers,” Rich said. “When I had that party, there weren't that many. But now, it's double the number it was then.”
Strength in numbers is great, and it's impressive that there are enough good local brewers to fill out more than 300 events this year. The challenge they face, however, will be avoiding complacency.
The young guns popping up around Western Pennsylvania, many of them not yet 30 years old, are talented and eager. But will they maintain their curiosity, creativity and industriousness that led to their breweries' birth, or will they settle into a standard and inoffensive tap list that pays the bills but does little to challenge our notions of what good beer can be?
And, importantly, will they keep working to improve their skills long after their early success?
Rich, Sloan and Allyn got together last month because they remain engaged in their work. None of them needed lessons on brewing — they have 60 years of combined experience.
But they wanted to get out of their comfort zone, to stretch their brains a little and see what kind of Frankenstein the three of them could create. They respect each other's talent and hope to learn something from their collaboration.
“I think the biggest thing is it shows camaraderie, not competition,” Allyn said. “The community sees that we are trying to build an industry.”
As they took turns checking on the brew, each one spoke glowingly about their favorite beers made by one another. Allyn is a devotee of Penn's Kaiser Pils. Sloan likes Allyn's Killa Pilz. Rich is a fan of a spiced coffee stout that Sloan released last fall.
Each brewer contributed his own hops to the India Pale Lager, reflecting their distinctive tastes. Doing a decoction mash was a decision they agreed on.
“Why not?” Allyn said. “Because we can.”
In other words, there would be no shortcuts. They knew this could be a great beer.
Chris Fleisher has done several decoction mashes to varying degrees of success. He can be reached at 412-320-7854 or cfleisher@tribweb.com.
