For classic Pittsburgh fare, longtime staple Emil's Lounge can't be beat
Four small plates and a box of oversized pastries plopped onto our table after my friends and I asked about dessert. Dessert is available at Emil's Lounge only on Fridays, but on this Tuesday our waitress made sure we left with our sweet tooth satisfied.
The delicious treats were brought in that morning for staff, but they had their fill, so might as well share — a lovely gesture epitomizing this Pittsburgh institution in Rankin.
Emil's was first opened in the early 1960s by current owner Krissy Kochi's parents. Bar food and drinks were the orders of the day with entertainment provided by male and female go-go dancers. The dancing days were short-lived, but longtime patrons still long for a revival. “My parents were ahead of the times,” Kochi laughs.
Aside from the dancing — and some dining room expansion — not much has changed at this neighborhood staple. Even chef Tony D'Onofrio has been with the restaurant for 47 years. The menu gives a nod to his heritage, with Italian dishes such as chicken parmesan, and to his previous gig at the long-gone seafood spot Poli's, with dishes such as stuffed flounder. Emil, Kochi's late father and restaurant namesake, also was known for preparing fish. The fish sandwich even holds a reputation of being one of the greatest in town.
Rick Sebak highlighted the sandwich and the lounge in a 2013 documentary of things he loves about Pittsburgh. And when Sebak, the ultimate champion of Pittsburgh, gives his seal of approval, I listen. So I finally took time to check it out.
Upon entering the space, it's easy to understand why Emil's made Sebak's list. Tables are filled with regular patrons; decor is simple with plastic tablecloths and a couple of wall wreaths; and a trapezoidal bar, perfect for conversation, fills a large portion of the room. Everything about the spot reads classic Pittsburgh, and I get the sense that everyone in the place knows each other.
“You just don't find this everywhere,” Kochi says. “It's special.”
It is, indeed, a rare gem in the ever-changing and trendy landscape of the city's dining scene.
There is no evidence of fads on the menu, which features enormous, hearty offerings of salads, steaks and sandwiches. You had better believe that some of those salads feature french fries. And you can bet stuffed cabbage makes an appearance on the menu as well. Yes, classic Pittsburgh.
The much-heralded fish sandwich is indeed the must-order. It is a whopping 1 pound, stacked high with three hand-breaded filets. Served on a hoagie roll that is at once fluffy and crusty, this behemoth does a good job of lobbying for the title of best in the 'Burgh. The sandwich, along with any other plate, can be split among friends for an additional $2. For reference, I made it through about one-fourth before surrendering.
Another star sandwich — and I could argue better — is the Reuben. Delicious corned beef is piled extra thick between grilled bread, paired with the perfect ratio of Thousand Island dressing and kraut.
Larger dinner plates include the likes of New York strip steak, grilled chicken breast from an Amish farm, stuffed shrimp and pan-fried pork chops. Thursdays at Emil's feature Italian meals such as a hot sausage hoagie and spaghetti and meatballs. Haluski and mac and cheese make appearances on Fridays. It's a home-cooked menu based on decades of feeding neighbors and friends.
In the longstanding tradition of her father, Kochi, who is of Serbian and Croatian descent, often will cheer new customers with a shot of Croatian liquor. Because being a customer at Emil's is like being part of “a little family.”
And if you don't get a shot, you just might get a piece of the staff dessert.
Laura Zorch is one of the food-savvy ladies of eatPGH.com, who contribute a weekly Dining Out column to the Tribune-Review.
