Indulge in the grandeur of Union Standard
Pittsburgh is full of historic architecture. From row houses that dot neighborhood streets to the tiered downtown skyline. It seems there are new architectural wonders around every corner in the city.
One such shining example is the Union Trust Building, located downtown on Grant Street. While the street level view seems rather ordinary, a skyward glance reveals a dramatic elegance that evokes the grandeur of a French château. That exterior elegance extends inside and is especially evident in one of the building's newest residents, Union Standard.
Led by chef Derek Stevens, formally of Eleven, Union Standard focuses on seasonal, regional offerings largely cooked over a wood-fired rotisserie and grill.
The lower dining room puts the regional focus front and center with a beautiful mural that stretches the length of the room. Rolling mountains and streams set the backdrop for three, romantic red leather semi-circular booths fit for a king. Other tables are available on the first floor but request a booth and soak in the clean lines and views out of the large window. Another equally elegant dining room sits above the first floor and in the very back is the large square bar. It's typically bustling with people mostly due to its close proximity to the raw bar featuring a rotating selection of oysters from both coasts, clams, shrimp, and more.
Nestled into one of those red booths, we started things off with the warm potato bread and wood grilled calamari. Both dishes were highlights of the meal but the warm potato bread was so comforting I could have selfishly eaten the entire loaf myself. The bread was sprinkled with flaky salt and dill and served with three spreads: cultured butter, goat butter and rhubarb and ramp jam. While the both the goat butter and jam were good, the simple cultured butter was my favorite flavor of the bunch.
The wood-grilled calamari was served over escarole and white beans — think greens and beans but with the added bonus of sliced calamari. The smokiness from the grill really enhanced this dish. Plus the broth was rich and creamy and if it were acceptable I would have slurped it straight from the bowl.
Other notable sharable starters include the steak tartar, prepared with sunflower seeds, pea shoots, pickled garlic and dressed with deviled egg dressing and the skillet baked blue crab made with a generous amount of lump blue crab, creamy marscarpone cheese and served with potato bread.
If you don't want to jump right into your main course, check out the first course options – smaller portions typically meant for one. Must-try selections include the oysters on the half shell served with three sauces (green apple mignonette, fresh horseradish and hopped vinegar hot sauce) and the sea scallops.
The protein-focused main menu features fish, chicken, pork, and beef. Currently, only one non-protein option is available, whole-wheat fettuccine pasta with asparagus, peas, egg and maitake mushrooms.
The unanimous favorite from the main courses sampled was the Alaskan halibut. Served on a bed of mussels, baby kale and fingerling potatoes, the halibut was flaky with a nice crispy char. The only complaint, and it was a mild one, was that the whole grain mustard vinaigrette that accompanied the dish was slightly overpowering at times.
Another main favorite was the hanger steak. The beef, from Serenity Hill Farms in Cheswick, was tender and flavorful. Especially when paired with the wood roasted maitake mushrooms and bok choy. This dish also featured a similar mustard seed jus but was less overwhelming as it took on a milder Asian-influenced flavor that paired with the dish better.
We also tried the wood-roasted chicken, which while delicious, didn't compare to the other dishes we sampled. The portion was huge and the hearty greens and sweet onion salad it was served with was underwhelming. If you do order the chicken consider adding an additional side like the fingerling potatoes prepared with duck fat, garlic chives and sea salt or the fries with the addicting marrownaise.
Libations should not be overlooked at Union Standard. The wine menu features red, white, sparkling and dessert options. The draft beer list is dominated by local favorites and the cocktail list features classic and house creations. A personal cocktail favorite was the Lemon Thyme Tuco made with Old Grandad and lemon thyme simple syrup. It's served in a stainless steel cup with perfect mound of crushed ice.
But if a libation isn't your thing, how about having some dessert? Union Standard has a small dessert menu featuring items like an ice cream sandwich made with coconut macaroon maple oat ice cream or a sundae with lemon ice cream, pistachio mint biscuit and strawberries. Either one is a great way to end your night surrounded by beautiful, timeless details.
Julia Gongaware is a Tribune-Review contributing writer.
