Breaking out the grill on Memorial Day to mark the start of summer cooking season naturally turns thoughts to pairing wines with favorite grilled foods.

Traditional picks with grilled fish include zesty sauvignon blanc whites such as sancerre from France's Loire Valley. Fruity California red zinfandels and earthy Côtes du Rhone jump out as delightful selections with grilled meats.

While not ignoring these classic favorites, also try wines from just a bit off the beaten track. Surprises can provide lots of fun and pleasure.

For white wines, Loire Valley producers offer more than sancerre, which remains the darling of wine bars in Paris and the world over. Consumers willing to explore can snare tasty Loire white wines at prices well below those of their more famous neighbor.

Meanwhile, Loire Valley red wines practically never come to mind with grilled meats, but they should. Thanks to the viticulture renaissance over the last 30 years, talented Loire Valley producers now offer delicious, well-made reds at great prices. A return to traditional, organic grape-growing and wine-making has driven the resurgence.

Enjoy the following pairings:

Try lightly grilling thin, delicate asparagus spears. Simply coat the spears with quality olive oil and then sprinkle on sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.

The spears' mild smoky flavors and slightly crispy texture pair well with the 2012 Chinon Château de Ligré Chinon Blanc, France (Luxury 48066; $19.99). Located in the central Loire Valley near the Vienne River about eight miles from the Loire River, Chinon enjoys better recognition for its red wines. But the area's sunny, yet mild, climate and clay, limestone and sandy soils also allow white grapes to ripen beautifully.

In this case, winegrower Pierre Ferrand's chenin blanc vines planted 15 and 20 years ago now produce terrific fruit. He ferments the grapes at cold temperatures to capture delicacy and then stirs the wine on the lees — spent yeast cells — to add complexity.

The wine's light-straw color offers delicate honeysuckle and pear aromas. Delicious pear and apple flavors balance with bright acidity and marvelous creamy notes. The wine finishes fruity but completely dry. Highly recommended.

With tuna steaks served rare and topped with a citrus sauce, try the 2011 Laporte “Le Bouquet” Sauvignon Blanc Vin de Pays du Val de Loire, France (Luxury 48513; $14.99). Domaine Laporte enjoys a reputation as leading sancerre producer; but, for this wine, it purchases grapes from throughout the Loire Valley.

The fruit is fermented in stainless steel at cool temperatures to capture complex aromas and fruitiness. The wine rests on fine lees for three months to add complexity.

Lovely grapefruit, quince and light, herbal aromas greet the nose. Fresh citrus and quince flavors layer in zesty acidity and a soft and fruity, yet dry, finish. Highly recommended.

Turning to meats, marinate flank steak in soy sauce, olive oil, honey, salt and pepper for several hours. After grilling, serve the sliced steak with the 2010 Domaine de la Chanteleuserie Bourgueil “Cuvée Beauvais,” France (Luxury 46981; $17.99).

The domaine's name — which means the “place where the lark sings” — suggests the vineyard's idyllic rustic setting on a limestone and clay plateau. Current vigneron Thierry Boucard represents the seventh generation to work the estate.

The wine uses cabernet franc or “Breton” by the local name. Low yields and temperature-controlled fermentation helped to preserve intense, pure fruitiness and vibrant freshness. The wine is aged in large wooden foudres to create complexity and roundness.

Dark-purple color offers raspberry, violet and smoky aromas. Raspberry and cassis flavors balance with elegant tannins through the fresh, fruity and dry finish. Highly recommended.

With grilled strip steaks, try the delicious 2011 Château Yvonne, Saumur Champigny “La Folie,” France (Luxury 48622; $24.99). Wine grower Mathieu Vallée uses vines ranging in age from 15 to 50 years that grow on clay and limestone in the village of Champigny. After hand-picking, the fruit ferments with natural yeast in stainless-steel vats to capture natural aromas and flavors. Aging occurs in French-oak barrels.

Aromas of violets and raspberries with earthy notes open to ripe raspberry and bell-pepper flavors. Fresh acidity and firm, yet elegant tannins frame the red fruit finish. Recommended.

Dave DeSimone writes about wine for Trib Total Media. He can be reached at ddesimone@tribweb.com.

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