First Aid for the Ailing House: Charcoal radon kits may give erratic readings

Q: I have not missed any of your columns in the Pittsburgh Tribune-Review for several years.

My question concerns radon gas. For my own peace of mind, I bought a radon detector kit at Lowe's. I followed the instructions to the letter. The result came back at 3.9 pCi/L. Since this was near the 4.0 threshold for action, I waited a month and repeated the test.

Nothing was changed in the home between the tests. The second test came back at "less that 0.7 pCi/L". Should I continue to run tests, or can the radon change that much day to day? -- Harwick, Pa.

A: You must have used charcoal kits, which give a short-term reading over 24 to 36 hours. Radon readings can fluctuate considerably depending on a number of circumstances: the time of year; where the kit was located; the comings and goings of the occupants; the location of the kits near a heat or ventilating source, etc.

This is why I recommend the use of an alpha track kit, which measures the radon level over several months. It can be started any time and left for up to one year. If you want to keep it only a few months, the testing is best done during the winter, because that is when the radon level is most important. Summer readings may be the same as radon levels outside, over which we have no control in climates that depend on open windows for ventilation. The Environmental Protection Agency recommends alpha track kits as the best way to measure radon levels over an extended period.

I have had similar reservations about the use of the radon-measuring systems that some home inspectors use to tell prospective buyers what the level of radon is in the home. They also give short-term readings that are not a true representation of the radon levels year-round, and they vary with the time of year.

Alpha track kits can be found in some hardware stores and through Amazon.

When heated, fiberglass screens may emit a foul odor

Q: My wife and I purchased a brand-new (spec) home in January 2011. When the weather warmed up in the spring, we opened the windows to enjoy the outside breeze. Within 10 minutes, our house had a terrible odor like cat urine. (We do not have a cat.)

It smells more strongly in some rooms than others. We do not notice any smell outside or by the open windows. It doesn't seem to matter which windows are open -- first or second floor -- to cause the odor. We do not have any specific odor-causing plants outside the windows. If we close the windows, the smell disappears as fast as it appeared, and the odor is not present if we keep the house closed up. We also do not notice anything if we run the air conditioner or heater.

Please help so we can open our windows and enjoy the outside air. -- Canonsburg, Pa.

A: Since the odor is noticeable only when the windows are open, it has to be coming from some element outside the windows. And since you are not smelling any odor outside, we can discount any odor from farming nearby.

If the odor were coming from carpeting or any other material in the house, you would smell it when the house is closed up.

I suspect the odor comes from fiberglass screens on the windows. You haven't said whether the odor is present only when the sun shines on some windows, but I have investigated such occurrences, and they took place only when the sun hit the screens. When everything else is analyzed, and discounted, it's the only thing that makes sense from your description of the problem.

Why don't you take down some of the screens and open your windows on a breezy day and see if this solves the problem? If it does, have the fiberglass screening replaced with new fiberglass in the hope that it won't happen again, or with metal screening. Hardware stores or glass shops are the places to go.

Q: We seem to find silverfish in almost every room in our house. Is there a product that keeps them away? -- via email

A: Silverfish are found indoors and out, including basements, crawl spaces and attics. They like warm temperature and moisture and are active at night. They feed on a variety of carbohydrates and protein, including paper and natural fibers.

Residual sprays or dust in cracks and crevices, along baseboards and in furniture may be helpful. Check for an appropriate product listed for silverfish and firebrats in hardware stores.

The better approach is to contact a local, family-owned pest control firm, whose owners will know what works best in your climate and where to apply sprays or dust.

Q: What bathroom ceiling fans do you use to eliminate moisture problems in a small bathroom? My house is old (built in 1947). The bathroom is about 6 feet by 8 feet, and the fan sits centrally in the ceiling, just outside the shower. I've put in three different fans over the years, and the ceiling continues to blister and peel even after my very exceptional painter has repaired it. In fact, a brand-new ceiling was placed about seven years ago.

I can manage it alone (one fast shower with the door ajar), but when family is home visiting, the problem is unbelievable, with a 1-foot-square area blistering here and there, moisture visible on the ceiling and running down the walls. Once it all dries out, the ceiling settles flat again. Any suggestions? -- Essex Junction, Vt.

A: The problem may not be with the fan, but with its ducting and termination. If the duct has sharp bends and/or a lower section between the fan and its exhaust, it may be full of condensation and not able to draw moisture from the bathroom.

The exhaust jack, if on an outside wall, may be stuck, or an animal (bird, squirrel, mouse, etc.) may have built a nest in the duct.

You should have the duct and its exhaust checked. If all is found to be functioning properly, you may want to have an electrician check the cfm (cubic feet per minute) of the fan. It may be too low, and a new, higher-power fan may need to be installed.

As for the peeling paint, it sounds as if there has been inadequate surface preparation between coats. If this is the case, all weak coats will have to be removed to repaint with a solid surface. It would also be best to use a high-gloss paint.

Since you had a new ceiling put it, we can rule out calcimine paint, which may have been the problem before the new ceiling was done.

Q: I read your articles every week, and I appreciate your knowledge and advice. I have a problem that no one seems to be able to solve, and I don't know what else to do.

We had 20-inch porcelain tile installed throughout our foyer, front hallway, kitchen and laundry room about two years ago. The installer has since moved to Canada. Most of the tile looks great, but in some places the grout just will not stay in. I have had someone from a grout company come out several times, and he has tried his best (he has even used some silicone in the grout), but invariably the grout falls out again in less than a month.

I understand that the installation may not have been correct and that there may be some movement, which cracks the grout. However, short of removing the tiles and starting all over, is there anything else we can do? -- via email

A: It sounds as if there is movement of the substrate onto which the tiles were laid. Masonry is not very forgiving, and floor tiles must be installed on a very solid base.

Consider having an experienced contractor check the floors and suggest a remedy. If there is access from below, a floor can be reinforced without damaging the tiles, but if there isn't, the contractor may be able to see another way to strengthen the floor. Otherwise, the tiles may need to be removed to correct any weakness.

Q: My husband and I are considering the purchase of a 1926 "New Englander" style home with asbestos siding. We think this could be a beautiful house with wood siding. Do you have any idea what it would cost to remove asbestos siding from a house and then re-side with wood? -- via email

A: The asbestos siding must be removed by people trained in its removal and disposal. It is likely to be quite expensive.

A 1926 house is likely to be poorly insulated, so once the asbestos is removed, you may want to consider having the walls checked for the type and thickness of any insulation within their cavities. If there is none or if the insulation is very minimal, cellulose can be blown in. Then consider having 1-inch-thick rigid insulation added to the sheathing, followed by one of the products available to provide a rain screen, before installing wood siding. Be sure the wood siding is primed on all sides before installation.

To get prices on these phases of the work, contact an environmental firm for the asbestos and an experienced contractor for the rest. There is no way I can tell you what it would cost to get this done in your area.

Q: I have Wilson Pergo flooring in my bedroom. The floor has been holding up well, but it is so dull, and I would like to get a shine to it. I am 88 years old and have some small rugs on the floor with rubber backing that have been working very well, as my house is on a crawl space. Getting up at night the floor is cold, so I like having the runners on the floor.

I have been thinking of having my cleaning lady wash the floor well and apply a thin coat of anti-slip floor wax. I am hesitant about any wax, as many of my friends have fallen in their homes. I researched waxes on the Internet, and the only anti-slip I can find is Lundmark. Will you please give me your opinion? I read your column every week. -- via email

A: If you are sure your laminate floor is a Wilsonart product, it is not a Pergo floor. Pergo is one of several other manufacturers of laminate flooring.

All laminate floors are manufactured pretty much the same. Their inner core layer is a composition of fiberboard materials and melamine resin. A photographic layer is appliqued on that, then topped by a clear protective layer. Laminate flooring can simulate wood or other finishes such as stone.

Although their protective layer is quite tough and durable, all laminate floors must be kept clean to prevent scratching or other damage to the surface. Water and other liquids must be mopped up right away because they can cause the floor planks to curl. Never use a wet mop when cleaning.

The use of most commercial cleaners is not recommended, and soaps, wax and detergents are definitely not, as they may leave a film that dulls the floor. This may be your problem. Additionally, laminate floors must never be polished, sanded or refinished.

If you are sure your laminate floor is by Wilsonart, the company's recommended cleaning method is a terry-cloth mop and 2 ounces of Wilsonart Flooring Cleaner per gallon of warm water. Follow the directions on the container.

A safe way to clean any laminate floor is to mix 1 gallon of water as hot as you can stand without burning your hands with 1 cup vinegar or ¹⁄₂ cup ammonia. Apply it with a well-wrung mop or a well-squeezed sponge. Then buff the floor immediately with a dry towel, which you can do by shuffling your feet in a little dance.