Adults appreciate custard's silky charms

Just because you don't need powerful canine incisors to dig into a serving of custard doesn't make it baby food.

True, custard is smooth, silken and goes down like a dream, but there's nothing infantile about it. Great sophistication is necessary to appreciate the subtle charms of eggs, sugar and cream.

Custard is both familiar and exotic. Nothing has that elegant texture or pure flavor. This is a dessert that reaches perfection when served simply.

Although custard isn't as breathtaking as a chocolate extravaganza or as patriotic as apple pie, it's an indulgent sweet you're sure to welcome on your menu.

Making a custard isn't difficult. If you can heat cream and beat eggs, you can easily master custard. However, finding the right proportion of cream and eggs is tricky.

I used to think the richer the cream, the better the custard. As an experiment, I prepared custards in a full range of fat contents, going from half-and-half at 10 percent to 12 percent milk fat, to heavy whipping cream at 40 percent fat.

Heavy whipping cream, which you're going to find in limited distribution, lives up to the name. The cream practically forms a solid block as soon as you heat it, but the fat is so prominent it coats your mouth, allowing no opportunity for other flavors to come through.

Whipping cream, sometimes labeled light whipping cream, has a fat content of 30 percent to 36 percent. It results in a custard with a velvety mouth feel, although it's too creamy for my taste.

Surprisingly, half-and-half yields a custard with the cleanest, lightest taste. This is the choice when you're adding an extract or spice to your recipe and want the flavorings to be prominent.

Too many eggs also upsets the balance, turning custard into a dish of sweet baked eggs. Using a whole egg and one yolk is enough to firm up a cup of cream without overpowering it.

This recipe is simple and satisfying. Top the custard with a luscious Pecan-Butterscotch Sauce, and you'll have a dessert only an adult can handle.

• Butter, for greasing custard cups
• 1 cup half-and-half
• 4 (1/4-inch thick) slices fresh ginger root
• 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1 large egg
• 1 large egg yolk
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• Pinch of salt
• Pecan-Butterscotch Sauce (recipe follows)

Grease 2 (8-ounce) custard cups with butter. Set aside.

Combine the half-and-half, ginger root and ground ginger in a small pan. Simmer for 5 minutes.

In a heat-proof bowl, beat together the egg, egg yolk, sugar and salt. Whisking constantly, stir the half-and-half into the egg mixture. Strain the egg mixture into a second bowl, pressing the ginger root slices to extract flavor. Discard the ginger root.

Heat the oven to 325 degrees.

Pour the egg mixture into the prepared custard cups, dividing evenly. Place them inside another pan that has sides, and put the pan into the oven. Add 1 inch of hot water to the outside pan. Bake the custards in the water bath for 45 to 55 minutes or until the custards no longer quiver when moved. Remove from the oven.

Carefully remove the custard cups from the hot water. Cool at room temperature for 30 minutes. Cover and refrigerate.

To serve, run a long thin blade around the inside border of the custard cups. Invert the custards onto serving plates. Top with Pecan-Butterscotch Sauce.

Makes 2 servings.

• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1/4 cup granulated sugar
• Pinch of salt
• 1/3 cup half-and-half
• 1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla
• 1/4 cup small pecan halves

In a small pan, combine the butter with 1 tablespoon water. Add the sugar and salt. Cook over medium heat until the butter melts and the mixture turns a light golden brown.

Stir in the half-and-half (caution, the mixture might sputter). Stir until the mixture becomes smooth and golden. Strain into a heatproof bowl. Stir in the vanilla and pecans. Serve warm.