Anthony's: Cooking to the future in Leeds

At 24 years of age, wunderkind chef Anthony Flinn Jr. is transforming the dining scene in Leeds. His restaurant, Anthony's, in the heart of this formerly grim, but now trendy West Yorkshire city, draws accolades from dining critics and numerous awards. The Observer Food Monthly, whose judging panel includes the illustrious Gordon Ramsay, named it 2005 Restaurant of the Year, commenting: "This is a staggeringly ambitious restaurant. The menu is executed with immense skill, flair and professionalism by a young and excellent chef, Tony Flinn."

Chef Flinn's innovative cuisine attracts increasingly global diners. The restaurant is fully booked for weekend dinners four months in advance. Sophisticated Londoners regularly take a two-hour train ride or drive three hours for lunch or dinner.

Having worked in the El Bulli kitchen of Spanish maestro Ferran Adria, Flinn converses expertly with foams and futuristic food technologies. He also pays homage to The Fat Duck's Heston Blumenthal, of molecular gastronomy fame. But this native Yorkshireman's culinary style follows no gospel but that of his own invention. He's frequently described as a genius who makes gastro-science immensely delicious.

Anthony's menu stars fresh, local ingredients and excels at provocatively juxtaposing dissimilar elements on a plate. While challenging in concept, flavor resolutions are luscious.

A foam of parmesan "water" tops a signature white onion risotto, sprinkled with ground espresso beans, with a surprise of more beans on the bottom. Pristine fresh cod, briefly salted in-house, rests on a bed of celeriac, as counterpoint to crispy chicken skin, chicken hearts and baby morels perched at the opposite end of an oval platter. A "crumble" of brioche covers a Jabugo ham "cup" containing Scottish baby squid and Jersey gold potatoes, a savory cobbler wittily referencing a popular British dessert.

Discussing the seemingly dissonant components in a dish, one Daily Mail critic notes: "It sounds terrifying, but these are pure delicious tastes distilled into a mouthful."

While the restaurant's celebrity centers on the kitchen's creativity, the Flinn family, working as a team, cements Anthony's success. Anthony Sr. financed the venture himself and oversees the entire operation. Chef Tony's domestic partner, Olga, runs an efficient front of house; the chef's sister, Holly, beautifully manages the bar and lounge.

The total ambiance is one of elegance with an anti-snob philosophy. The basement level dining room, comfortably calm, features custom designed dark brown leather chairs, white linen and fine cutlery. At street level, high-backed leather banquettes, matching the dining room chairs, accommodate cocktails and after-dinner coffee and cordials.

Young, black-clad wait-staff provide attentive service, with seemingly effortless precision. Tables are widely spaced for those who want privacy, but inter-table chatter is encouraged. For cutting-edge cooking that's down to earth delectable, plus a convivial dining experience, Anthony's is close to peerless.

Detials: Anthony's Restaurant, 19 Boar Lane, Leeds LS1 6EA, phone 011-44-(0)113-245-5922, www.anthonysrestaurant.co.uk .