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Artist brings Turkish lacemaking to Pittsburgh

Alyson Walls
| Thursday, February 27, 2003 5:00 a.m.
As a marketing manager with Procter & Gamble, Banu Turhan was working 12- to 15-hour days and traveling three days a week. The lifestyle left little room for creativity or enjoyment. But in the few free minutes she could find, Turhan practiced painting and drawing, and yearned for enough time to do something more artistically meaningful. Then, about two years ago, the 35-year-old Shadyside resident quit her job and traveled back to her native Istanbul, Turkey, to reclaim her spirit and find inspiration in the country known as "the cradle of civilization." "I guess you always turn back to your roots," Turhan says, the words sprinkled with a light accent. There, she began studying the centuries-old art of Oya -- Turkish lacemaking. "The colors and designs always intrigued me," she says. Turhan grew up watching her aunts knit together the beautiful strands of lace in delicate shapes of flowers, fruits and plants. "Whenever I go back, we all get together for Oya parties," she says. On March 8, Turhan will share this Turkish art form with Pittsburghers in a workshop at the Society for Contemporary Craft in the Strip District. Stephanie Doben, spokeswoman for the society, says women who already enjoy beading or crocheting will enjoy learning the technique. "Oya is simple to master, and your creations can jazz up bags or clothing or simply be worn as jewelry," Doben says. Oya, which dates to the 16th century, is one of the most elegant examples of Turkish handicrafts. Commonly known as edging embroidery, Oya draws inspiration directly from nature, and is used to embellish the edges of scarves, clothing, shoes and other items. Tiny needles are used to knot colorful threads into intricate chain-like designs such as vegetables, berries or blossoms. Oya also can be knitted with tiny beads or pearls. Traditionally, women used silk, but today's cotton and rayon threads are less expensive and more durable. "The inspiration is very simple, yet the designs are very intricate," Turhan says. There are nine techniques used to produce Oya, but the two most popular are needlework and crochet. While normal lacework has two dimensions, Oya can be knitted in three and placed on the sides of fabric as a decoration. "You need patience and good eyes," Turhan says, holding up a strand of pink Oya shaped like oleander flowers. One small strand, less than six inches long, could take beginners up to a week to complete. Not to worry. "You get faster with practice," she promises. In her class, Turhan will use larger needles and beads that are easier for beginners to work with. She also will explain the origins and folklore associated with Oya, which is traditionally practiced by women and traces its roots to the Turkish countryside. Women in rural areas wear scarves as protection from the sun while working in the fields. The headcoverings serve a functional rather than religious purpose, so women began decorating the edges with Oya as a symbol of status or to tell a story. A young, unmarried woman might wear Oya fashioned like hyacinth flowers or daisies, while a married woman who had a spat with her mother-in-law might adorn her scarf with red and green chili peppers to show that she is "mad as fire." "The specific design is up to the individual," Turhan says. "It is always evolving." Today, many items, including balloons and even cartoon characters, serve as the inspiration. Oya is commonly sold at bazaars and markets throughout Turkey. The versatility of the art form is what Turhan says she enjoys most. "I love the colors and the ability to improvise the design and function; plus, I also like working small-scale," she says. The best part, Turhan says, is that all the items needed to create Oya fit easily into your pocket and are available at most fabric or art stores. "You can take it anywhere and work on it," Turhan says. Turhan is now experimenting with Oya in jewelry making. She cuts and casts her own silver earrings, rings, bracelets and necklaces in the shape of Oya and even pours silver directly over some of the lace designs. "I wanted to see how I could use them in different capacities," she says. "I like the soft qualities of fiber, and at the same time, the durability and robustness of metal, so I'm trying to see how I can incorporate both of them." Last year, Turhan took a class in metalworking at the Society for Contemporary Craft, and she has been hooked ever since. She encourages others to take advantage of the opportunities. "They attract world-renowned artists to their workshops and exhibitions," she says. "I think it helps people discover themselves and find something they really like to do." Several pieces of her jewelry are for sale in the gallery. Turhan, who has been living in Pittsburgh for five years, says she will miss her friends at the society and others in the city. Her husband, who also is from Turkey, recently completed his doctorate at the University of Pittsburgh, and the couple is relocating to Washington, D.C. They are expecting their first child in May and are in the process of becoming U.S. citizens.

Oya: Colorful Beaded Lace

10 a.m. to 5 p.m. March 8. $75; $55 for Society for Contemporary Craft members. $20 materials fee payable to the instructor. Society for Contemporary Craft, 2100 Smallman St., Strip District. (412) 261-7003.


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