At Calabria's, culinary talent runs in the family

When Dee and David Calabria call a staff meeting, they don't have to look far. It's a matter of assembling their four sons: Michael, James, Anthony and David.

Michael, 33, Anthony, 26, and David, 19, are principals in the kitchen of Calabria's Italian restaurant in Castle Shannon; the other brother, James, 28, handles the banquet side of the business. Mom and Dad are in charge of the front of the house and the finances, says Dee Calabria, whose pride and enthusiasm for her sons and other members of the restaurant team travels through the telephone wires.

It was her father, chef Russell Ebert, who helped to make the family the success they are today. Calabria's has thrived for a dozen years, first in a Groves Road location, then after its move to a larger facility along Library Road in the mid-1990s.

Ebert was one of the first three chefs to achieve the status of certified executive chef, awarded by the American Culinary Federation starting in the 1960s.

"He learned to cook in the Navy," Dee Calabria says. Ebert was a chef at the former Duquesne Golf Club, the William Penn Hotel, and at Sheraton Station Square. He designed the kitchens for the Sheraton in Mars.

"Elsie Hillman loved his gazpacho soup," she says, "and he cooked for Frank Sinatra."

Although of German heritage, Ebert was well-rounded in his repertoire. Dee's husband's family is Italian, and his mother's sauces are served at Calabria's, which son Michael describes as having "upscale homestyle cuisine."

Ebert came out of retirement to handle the kitchen when the Calabrias opened their restaurant in 1992. He taught all of his grandsons to cook from their youth.

"The restaurant was bought when I was in kindergarten," says David Calabria, who just graduated from high school. "There were two kitchens in the first restaurant, and after school I would go to one of them, and he would teach me how to cook."

He says his love of cooking reflects his upbringing.

"That's what I grew up with and around," he says. 'You learn to love it, and you don't want to leave it."

Ebert, who began cooking at age 14, was known for his desserts, too -- fruit and cream pies, and apple crisp. And he never tried to tweak his son-in-law's family Italian recipes, says Dee Calabria, respecting them all the way to his death last August.

There's no place for a stuffy atmosphere at Calabria's, even though everything is made from scratch using the finest ingredients, says Michael Calabria. Dress casually and consider yourself family. Popular items are Pasta Calabria -- penne and sauteed spinach in an oil and garlic tomato sauce mix, Tournedos Milano, Chicken Romano and a Calabria twist on Chicken Cordon Bleu.

The last item deviates from the norm by offering chicken medallions Romano style topped with imported prosciutto and provolone cheese drizzled with a sherry-brandy sauce.

And don't forget dessert, even if you have to take it with you. Michael Calabria's original recipe for tiramisu is a melt-in-your-mouth marvel.

"I took 15 to 20 recipes I found -- I had to have a couple translated from Italian -- then I created my own recipe," he says.

"One customer even said my tiramisu is better than she had in Italy."

Pasta Modena

This quick and easy recipe will delight an array of palates. Michael Calabria always sautes mushrooms in butter instead of olive oil because butter softens and adds flavor, while olive oil causes them to fry and become chewy, taking away from their flavor.

• 1 skinless boneless chicken breast, about 5 ounces, flattened to about 1/2-inch thickness
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons butter, divided
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup sliced mushrooms
• 1 1/2 artichoke hearts, cut in quarters
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup sliced roasted red peppers
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• Pinch of crushed red pepper
• 4 tablespoons chicken broth, divided
• 1 1/2 cups cooked farfalle pasta (bow ties)
• 1/4 cup grated romano cheese
• Chopped fresh parsley

Heat a grill to medium-high.

Sprinkle the chicken breast on both sides with salt and pepper. Rub with extra-virgin olive oil and place on the hot grill. Let sear for 2 minutes, then turn the chicken to make crosshatch marks.

Meanwhile, melt 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet. Add the mushrooms and saute until they begin to change color. Pour in about 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add the artichokes, roasted red pepper and garlic. Continue to saute, adding another splash of olive oil, the crushed red pepper and a pinch of salt.

Turn the chicken over on the grill and let cook for about 2 minutes, then turn to make crosshatch marks on the other side. The chicken is done when an instant-read thermometer reads 170 degrees in the center of the meat. Remove and set aside; keep warm.

Meanwhile, taste the sauce for salt and pepper. Add 2 more tablespoons chicken broth. Bring to a simmer. Add the pasta and toss to coat all ingredients with the sauce. Just before plating, add the butter and toss until it melts and gives the noodles a nice shine. Stir in the romano cheese gently until it is incorporated and melted.

To plate: Turn the pasta into a shallow bowl. Slice the chicken into thin strips crosswise and, using a spatula or wide knife, transfer the "whole" chicken breast to the top of the pasta. Garnish with the parsley.

Makes 1 serving.

Additional Information:

Details

Calabria's, 3107 Library Road, Castle Shannon, is open from 3 to 9:30 p.m. Sundays; 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; and 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Details: 412-885-1030, calabrias.com

Send requests for your favorite restaurant recipes to Cooking Class in care of Living, Pittsburgh Tribune-Review, D.L. Clark Building, 503 Martindale St., Pittsburgh, PA 15212. Fax: 412-320-7966.