La Strada manages to be traditional and modern at the same time.
The Liberty Avenue restaurant offers Italian classics, seafood and twists some traditional dishes for a fresh taste and presentation. Go there prepared to take your time: Dining at La Strada -- which means "the road" in Italian -- requires at least a couple hours to enjoy the courses. The restaurant is a fine place to take a significant other, with its cozy, dim-lit dining room wrapped in rich red velvet drapes.
The seating is comfortable, with cushy white leather chairs and booths, so you don't mind sitting a while.
As a bonus, people who go for dinner don't have to scramble for parking. Just ditch your car at the curb and friendly valets rush to park it for you -- then you can rush in to enjoy a relaxing meal composed to appeal to the eye as well as the palate.
For dinner, we started with Seafood Skewers ($12) and Eggplant ($8). The plump shrimp and scallops are layered with sweet, roasted tomatoes, then wrapped in pancetta, creating an interesting smoky contrast with the seafood. The rolled eggplant offered a surprise inside: goat cheese instead of ricotta. But otherwise, the two fresh slices of eggplant were unremarkable, topped with a bland marinara.
We fared far better with the second and third courses.
The Beet Timbale ($9) is fresh beets layered with goat cheese and topped with walnuts, dressed with baby greens. Pretty to look at, and a terrific blend of flavors, textures and colors. Beef Carpaccio ($10) is perfect to whet your appetite for the main meal, with four thin slices of beef dressed with greens. We also ordered the Arugula Salad ($7), which, on this day, was made with baby spinach because the restaurant did not have arugula. The salad is a winning combination: apples, walnuts, grilled ricotta salata -- a crumbly, dry cheese -- and baby greens dressed in a honey vinaigrette.
The Lobster Corn Bisque ($7) was creamy and fresh, although we weren't prepared for the overpowering sweetness of the corn.
The dinners are served with crusty Italian bread, a lush sundried tomato puree, and olive tapanade. We didn't even miss the butter, and we couldn't help but ask for a second basket of bread to go with dinner.
Diners can satisfy their inner carnivore with Filet Mignon ($32), a 10-ounce slab of beef topped with fried onions on a plate adorned with steamed, baby pattypan squash and rich fingerling potatoes. The meat was juicy and tender, done just right. The simple presentation allows the fresh flavors of the food to shine.
In the Farfalle alla Gorgonzola ($16), the pasta was cooked al dente which is unusual because many restaurants overcook the pasta. The butterflies are dressed in heavy cream sharpened by rich gorgonzola, flecked with sweet peas and flavored by just enough pancetta.
Seafood lovers have a lot to choose from at La Strada.
The Whole Roasted Seabass ($25) is delicious but not for the faint of heart. Diners are given the option of having the fish filleted tableside - or in the kitchen. We chose tableside, watching as the server deftly trimmed the tender fish with two spoons and placed it on a platter, surrounded by fresh mussels. The seabass was fresh, meaty and tender.
The Milanese dish Osso Bucco ($28) is served over a classic, creamy saffron risotto. La Strada's version remains faithful to the traditional recipe, with long-simmered veal shanks in a rich broth, and a small fork for eating marrow from the bone.
For dessert, we had to try the La Strada version of Tiramisu ($7). We were pleasantly surprised to find that the coffee taste didn't overpower the sponge and the marscarpone, as it does in many versions. The flavors are balanced just right, and the caramel around the tiramisu is a nice touch.
Traditionalists will love the Banana Creme Brulee ($7), a rich, warm treat topped with bananas.
For the more adventurous, there's the Pineapple Cannoli ($8) and the Chocolate Trio ($10). These aren't your grandmother's cannoli. Two narrow pastries filled with pineapple lay atop a slab of dark chocolate. The plate is accented by powdered chocolate mints, creating an eclectic take on the Sicilian favorite. The chocolate trio was composed of rich chocolate cake triangles, a cinnamon-laced nut strudel, and chocolate granita. The granita, with its pleasingly bitter, heavy-cocoa taste, was a fitting ending to a rich meal.
The servers at La Strada were quick and friendly, but not so much so that they stopped by too frequently. The wine menu is rich and varied, with a respectable choice of domestic and imported wines. The menu changes seasonally -- and we can't wait to see what comes out of their kitchen next. Additional Information:
Details
La StradaCuisine: American, Italian.
Entree price range: $16 to $34.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11:30 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed on Sunday.
Notes: Non-smoking in the restaurant; smoking at the bar. Valet parking offered at dinner for $8. Free parking for people who order an entree at dinner -- they'll validate your ticket. Reservations recommended. Major credit cards accepted.
Location: 620 Liberty Ave., Downtown.
Details: (412) 697-2800.
