Avenue B. in Shadyside may have a quaint atmosphere, but excels in taste
If you're looking for a mid-day meal during the week, a place where you can get away and enjoy a leisurely, upscale lunch, look no further than Avenue B. Primarily known for romantic weekend dinners, the quaint spot on Centre Avenue in Shadyside provides a nice change of pace in the lunchtime lineup.
I needed something different from the sandwiches, pizza and burgers that often fill the hurried dining hour. Avenue B had what I was looking for.
I was welcomed by large chalkboards on the wall that boasted the day's offerings. A few bistro tables dot the front walk, while the cozy space indoors holds less than 20 tables. I wove my way through them and took a seat at a table facing the front window. The tables are lined with paper, which helps evoke a relaxed and playful atmosphere.
Immediately noticeable: The lunch menu holds its own when stacked up against the dinner menu. Patrons need not feel dinner is the only meal where they'll receive impeccable service and extraordinary food.
The essence of what makes Avenue B is flawlessly presented in its soups, salads and handhelds. All dishes sampled were clearly prepared with the beautiful flair that makes chef-owner Chris Bonfili so well-known and respected.
The ever-changing menu, with a clear focus on seasonality, is dictated by available ingredients. Summer brought squash, tomatoes and watermelon to the table by way of “Beginnings” (appetizers), “Chalkboard” (specials), and “Main Events” (entrees). Pair all that seasonal goodness with wild-caught fish, wagyu beef and organic chicken. Top it with goat cheese, aioli and aged balsamic, and you've got yourself one heck of a menu on your hands.
My “Beginning” began with a generous bowl of Roasted Garlic Tomato Bisque. The pristine, white serving bowl laid wait in beautiful contrast to the rich and creamy red-orange of the soup. Topped with a sprinkling of shredded cheese, it was served as the perfect primer for my “Main Event,” although it could have stood alone.
I spooned bite after bite, taking in the creamy texture and the bold flavor, tasting the garlic and tomato, neither overpowering the other, as I happily stared out the window at the Pittsburgh rain coming down, quieting the usually bustling street. I seemed transported as the warm bisque took over and the soft music hummed and reverbed off the chalkboard walls.
I was drawn to the Fire Roasted Vegetable Chopped Salad for my “Main Event,” considering it seemed a great way to incorporate some of the best things about Avenue B and Bonfili's cuisine.
I was pleasantly surprised to find it served on a bed of white-bean hummus — the unexpected execution was well-received. Again, the stark white of the platter made the food stand out even clearer, as if showcasing an artist's work.
Two small slices of grilled bread danced on top of the medley of colorful vegetables. Deep-purple eggplant nestled against bright-green zucchini and squash the shade of sunshine. Yellow and red peppers and Romaine lettuce rounded out the vegetable offering, while fresh burrata — Italian cheese made with mozzarella and cream — acted as an accompaniment. The entire dish was drizzled in aged balsamic. It was summer on a plate.
Homemade-style desserts are offered at lunch, too. That would extend your leisurely time a bit more, but it would be so worth it.
For dinner, you might want to begin with local greens paired with caramelized onions or chicken on a stick paired with chicken-liver mousse and fried Brussels sprouts.
“Main Events” include soft-shell crab, flank steak and falafel, giving patrons fresh ingredients prepared in exciting ways.
Avenue B is BYOB. So, if you have the time, a bottle of wine would be at home with any of the menu options.
Amanda McFadden is one of the food-savvy ladies of eatPGH.com who contribute a weekly dining column to Trib Total Media.
