A paradise amid a vast sea of asphalt, Bahama Breeze offers a food version of "Temptation Island" in Robinson Town Centre.
From the tip of its corrugated steel roof to the rattan furniture on the veranda, this restaurant invites diners to escape the hum-drum and take a minibreak of Caribbean delights.
It's not quite reality -- more like a movie setting of the islands. A thatch roof hovers over a table like a giant lampshade. Cushy booths are upholstered in bright tropical prints. Palm trees reach to the ceiling. Windows are dressed on the inside with striped roll-up blinds on the inside and louvered shutters outside.
Dining and drinks are also available on the wraparound porch. A large gazebo on the corner offers a fire pit surrounded by a circular stone table -- perfect for the large parties of friends.
Live island music is part of the noisy atmosphere. You will hear every version of Jimmy Buffett song you can stand. Not that there's anything wrong with that.
The concept of this chain restaurant is obviously well thought out. The atmosphere is fun and family friendly and the helpful staff is trained to get your food to you quickly.
But if you're not in a hurry, force the wait staff to, well, wait. It's not conducive to a relaxed meal to have your half-eaten appetizers be pushed aside to make room for a salad and entree before their time. Something is bound to get cold and someone, ahem, is bound to get cranky.
The cuisine reflects the many cultural influences that have touched the Caribbean over the past, oh, 500 years or so. French, British, Spanish, Dutch, Indian and Chinese flavors have all made their mark in this flavorful melting pot.
West Indies Patties ($6.25), for example, are an excellent crusty pastry filled with a tasty concoction of chopped beef and spices. The three delicious patties are served alongside a dipping sauce of sweet apple-mango salsa and seasoned sour cream.
A slightly twisted version of the usual, Island Onion Rings ($6.99) is a stacked-high mountain of thick-sliced, coconut-breaded onion rings. Here, dipping sauces include chili-horseradish and a citrus-mustard blend.
Skip the Roasted Cuban Bread ($4.50), a slight variation of bruschetta, for less ordinary choices.
When ordering Jamaican Grilled Chicken Wings ($8.75), save yourself time and go ahead and ask for an extra napkin. The slow-roasted wings, marinated with jerk seasoning, are tender and spicy.
Soups are no less enticing. Bahamian Conch Chowder ($3.75 per cup, $4.99 per bowl) begins with a tomato broth to which conch, vegetables and potatoes are added. A slow-simmered Cuban Black Bean Soup ($2.75 per cup, $3.99 per bowl) is served with yellow rice. The Chicken Tortilla Soup ($3.25) is the best with its rich mix of vegetables, chicken, roasted peppers and corn.
The menu works through lunch and dinner with a variety of sandwiches, salads and wood-fired pizzas.
As a light meal, the Grilled Fresh Salmon Tostada ($10.99) was exceptional. Served open-faced, crisp flour tortillas were covered with field greens tossed in a citrus vinaigrette, oak-grilled salmon and cheese. Slices of avocado and a home-made salsa came on the side.
The Cuban Sandwich ($7.99) was a special sort of hoagie, with slices of roast pork, ham, salami and Swiss cheese, dressed with tomato, lettuce, pickles, mustard and mayonnaise. With each bite, another flavor appears. I'll bet it's a big hit with Fidel.
Of all the variations we've tried of margaritas, this one will pass the breathalyzer. Grilled Margarita Chicken ($13.25) is the mouth-watering result of having marinated chicken in lemon, lime, honey and a splash of Jose Cuerva tequila. It's served with a side of Island Rice -- red beans and rice, by any other name -- and a tomato and corn salsa.
Pass on the Spicy Seafood Linguine ($14.50), which had overcooked pasta and a rather bland sauce.
Instead, go for the Seafood Paella ($17.50), a yellow rice casserole crowded with mussels, chicken, scallops, shrimp, fish, Spanish sausage and peas.
The more carnivorous, meat and potatoes diner will love the West Indies Ribs ($19.50) with French fries. These oh-so-tender babybacks are glazed with a smoky sweet guava barbecue sauce.
All desserts are made in-house, with the exception of the cheesecake. All are extraordinary.
Rebecca's Key Lime Pie ($5.50) was the true-to-form version with a frothy toasted meringue and a thick brown sugar crust.
Bananas Supreme ($4.99) offered warm banana bread, topped with banana slices and vanilla ice cream and drizzled with a hot butterscotch brandy sauce.
Chocolate mousse with the barest coffee flavor was the basis for the Chocolate Island ($5.99), which was surrounded by milk chocolate sauce and vanilla anglaise.
Warm and rich, the Pina Colada Bread Pudding ($4.99) included pineapple and coconut under a coconut rum sauce.
With no plans of island hopping in the near future, we're looking forward to a return visit that coincides with the first snowfall. What better, more cheerful place to spend the winter⢠Additional Information:
Details
Bahama BreezeCuisine: Caribbean.
Entree price range: $8.99-$19.99.
Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sundays through Thursday; 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays and Saturdays.
Notes: No reservations accepted, but diners can call ahead within an hour of arrival to be put on the list. Full bar.
Location: 6100 Robinson Centre Drive, Robinson.
Details: 412-788-5790.
Ticket restaurant reviewers visit restaurants anonymously. They pay in full for all food, wines and services. Interviews are done only after meals and services have been appraised.
