The Baja Bar and Grill has recast the former Fox Chapel Yacht Club with emphasis on the bar more than the grill. While the happy-hour crowd surely loves its new digs along the Allegheny River near Fox Chapel, the Lunch Bunch recalls better times when the establishment was an upscale restaurant called Riverhorse.
The Baja Bar's focal point in the dining area is a huge bar with seating around the boatlike shape. An upper deck has a huge dance floor, and the party continues with video gaming machines and a large air-hockey table in a separate glass-enclosed room that adjoins a deck overlooking the river.
We had to visit several times because we suspected something was going on in the kitchen during our first disastrous visit -- we later learned the chef quit that day. A colleague who we sent incognito had a satisfying meal, which prompted us to return for a do-over on several items we found initially disappointing.
We ordered nachos on two visits, but were disappointed. We've never seen Nachos Grande ($7.95) loaded up quite this way. There was shredded cheese, some of it browned in the oven, but yet there was cheese sauce ladled on, too. A heap of bagged lettuce that was not at all shredded was tossed on top of the chips with a few tomatoes, jalapeno peppers and dry white cannelini beans. The seasoned meat, what there was of it, was dry as well. The second time we tried it, the look and taste were the same.
We also ordered a Grilled Chicken Salad ($7.95). Twice. On first attempt, there were two nice grilled pineapple slices decorating the plate. However they were chilled. We don't go for the grill and chill. We call those leftovers. The chicken had grill marks on it as well, but its gray pallor again left us to believe that it was grilled previously and then chilled. Cheese, shredded carrots and green pepper strips also were featured. On the second attempt, we have to say the chicken improved, but there was nothing that set apart this common salad.
On our first visit, we ordered the day's special: Shrimp Teriyaki ($9.95). It featured breaded shrimp topped with a thick teriyaki sauce and sesame seeds. A small mound of rice pilaf decorated the plate. By appearances, the effort was there, but the freshness factor didn't measure up.
Another special, Turkey Croquettes ($5.95), featured a mix of ground turkey and seasonings in two large hamburger-size patties and fried. Although they had a good flavor, they were much too greasy. A dab of rice medley, which consisted of a rice pilaf mixed with diced green pepper and tomatoes, is served along with a small roll.
We were caught off-guard in that first visit, but when we realized Baja has taken on a bar atmosphere, we figured we should take the hint and order bar food. Things picked up. The Fish Sandwich ($6.45) was excellent featuring a long length of mild fish in crispy Panko breading. Fries come on the side. This fish is worth the trip.
We also chose the Philly Cheesesteak Gourmet Pizza ($10.95) from a number of gourmet pizza options. The 10" diameter pita-style pizza was laced with garlic, grilled on both sides, and featured a blend of cheese and tender steak in a flavorful blend. Although small in size, it is big on taste.
The Broccoli Cheddar Soup ($2.95 bowl) also was a pleasant surprise. It was broth-based, not the traditional cream-based soup. It had lots of huge broccoli chunks and was laced with pepper, celery and grated cheese for a unusually good homemade taste.
The Grilled Chicken Wrap ($5.95) had grilled chicken breast, lettuce, tomato and onion in a seasoned wrap with ranch dressing. With a generous amount of soft, warm chicken, and served with honey mustard sauce, this wrap sings with flavor to savor.
The Grilled Steak Sandwich ($7.95) had potential, but fell below our expectations. A decently sized steak on a toasted Kaiser roll with a side of fries seasoned with salt and pepper made for a mouth-watering presentation, but the steak itself was disappointing on two occasions. It was chewy, fatty and we only managed to take three bites before resorting to the fries as our main course. On second attempt, one of the pieces of steak was good and the others were fatty and filled with gristle.
Compiled by Rebecca Killian, Sis Reola, Eric Felack and guests. Meals are paid for by the Valley News Dispatch and are unrelated to advertising.
Additional Information:
Baja Bar and Grill
Address: 1366 Old Freeport Road, Pittsburgh
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun-Tues.; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Weds.-Thurs.; 11:30 a.m.-2 a.m. Fri.-Sat.
Credit cards: All major cards are accepted.
Smoking: Permitted.
Handicapped accessible: No.
Prices: Appetizers, $3.95-$8.95; salads, $2.95-$9.95; sandwiches, $3.95-$7.95.
Details: 412-963-0640, or www.bajabargrill.com
