Baum Vivant fuses cuisines with taste and flair
Call it a diamond in the rough.
Baum Vivant, tucked behind an unassuming storefront along Baum Boulevard in Shadyside, is a gem. The tiny restaurant - it seats about 65 - is four-star dining on a street better known for its fast food and take-out offerings.
But once you walk under the American and Portuguese flags and go through the vestibule, you feel as if you've left the trappings of Baum Boulevard behind. Pink and black swirled canvas wall treatments captivate and brighten the interior. A mirrored wall gives the narrow dining room needed breadth.
The menu, a fusion of Portuguese, Northern Italian and French, is all class.
Throughout the meal, the wait staff is attentive and accommodating. There's no hurry between courses, and the timing of the delivery is nearly perfect. At some point during your meal, expect to see owner Tony Pais at your table to answer any questions and top off your wine glass. He knows the regulars by name and greets every table with warm charm.
For starters, there are the caviar offerings - Beluga for $95 and American for $42. Or, try the foie gras for $16.95. We settled on Jumbo Lump Crab Cake ($9.50), which was served with a delicious lemon vanilla sauce and the Duck Confit Macau ($8.50). The duck was wrapped in a crispy rice paper and served with a plum wine sauce.
Between courses, diners are treated to Portuguese corn bread served with a honey cream cheese. An intermezzo - a shot of orange juice, raspberry schnapps, rum and Campari - is offered to cleanse the palate.
When the main course arrives, diners will notice a wide variety of vegetables on their plates. The vegetables, including organically grown varieties, are bought fresh daily, so the veggie selections vary each day and with each dish.
But Pais doesn't stop there. He shops in the Strip District daily picking fresh meats and seafoods for that night's entrees. Quality and freshness guide his choices.
"People tell me I waste time going to the Strip District to shop," Pais says. "But at least I can see what I'm buying."
The entree selection offers something for a variety of tastes. The Quail Breast ($32) was so tender it practically melted. The oven-roasted
fowl was served in a lemoncello sauce and polenta and a mix of vegetables.
The Sea Bass ($29.50), served with roasted mushrooms and sweet carmelized onion coulis was nicely prepared and presented. The softness of the fish wasn't overpowered by the preparation.
The Filet Mignon Mae Helena ($36.95) was a beautiful cut served with a puffed pastry filled with mushrooms, purple potatoes and onions.
The Pork Tenderloin Normande ($27.75), served with carmelized apples and an apple brandy, was satisfying.
For dessert, we tried the Pumpkin Tart ($6) and the Sampler Platter ($7.50). The platter came with a lemon tart, creme brulee and a chocolate tart, garnished with raspberries and raspberry sauce.
Baum Vivant's repeat clientele speak to its quality. There are nights when Pais knows every name on the reservation list. Newcomers will experience a jewel that hides behind such a modest exterior.
Additional Information:
Dining Review
Baum Vivant
Cuisine: Portuguese, Northern Italian and French fusion.
Hours: 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; 5:30 to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Closed Sundays.
Entree price range: $25.50 to $43.50.
Notes: Reservations recommended, non-smoking restaurant.
Location: 5102 Baum Blvd., Shadyside.
Details: (412) 682-2620
