Blue's original chef is back at the helm
Jay Whittenberger, executive chef at Blue in McCandless, has come full circle in his culinary career.
As the original chef of Blue eight years ago, Whittenberger created the exciting menu that brought diners from all over the region to the little Duncan Manor strip mall. But he left Blue after 18 months, to go back to his native Ohio. Five years later, he returned to Pittsburgh as the head chef of the now-defunct Trilogy, Downtown.
And now, he's back at Blue with new ideas and the freedom to create whatever he wants with the global Asian-influenced menu.
"I just love the place," says Whittenberger, 32, a 1997 graduate of Pennsylvania Culinary Institute. "It was the first restaurant I opened as the executive chef, and there's a sense of pride being back there. When Jason approached me, it was a no-brainer."
Jason Eisenreich, 33, bought Blue three years ago, determined to keep the award-winning restaurant at the top of the fine-dining scene. The Cranberry resident, who has been in the restaurant business for 13 years, says Blue has a loyal following from the neighborhood as well as from farther afield.
"We call it upscale casual with fine foods," says Eisenreich, whose wife, Jessica, does the bookkeeping. They have three children. "We are known for service and food quality. Everything is made from scratch, and we don't rush the tables. We also have one of the busiest bars in the area."
The baby blue walls and matching ceiling, as well as the blue lights at the bar, offer a soothing, relaxing dining atmosphere. The main dining room, with hardwood flooring, has several round tables with sturdy, earth-tone formica tops and cranberry high-back chairs. The track lighting casts a soft glow. Walk up a few stairs to the right, and diners find a more intimate setting with comfortable booths against the walls.
Blue seats 65 diners in the main dining room and has two private rooms that can hold a combined 45 diners. During nice weather, there are 12 outside seats.
A small stage in the front of the restaurant comes alive on Diva Tuesdays, when a different female jazz singer performs for two hours, every week. Thursday nights showcase full jazz bands, Eisenreich says. Blue's live entertainment has been well-received.
"Music, even in a down economy, makes people feel good," he says. "It helps them forget about their troubles."
Blue's adventurous menu also should help in that quest. Starters include the popular fish tacos, with grilled salmon and chipotle aioli; sea scallop seviche, with lotus chips and bok choy salad; tempura lobster with sirachi aioli; spicy beef satay with Thai basil peanut sauce; and a shrimp summer roll, with a sweet chile sauce.
Whittenberger's appetizers feature gorgonzola hummus with toasted pine nuts and pita crisps; basil pesto bruschetta with Roma tomatoes and mozzarella cheese; duck confit ravioli with honey-glazed apples; grilled brie; and broiled crab cakes with roasted shallot aioli.
There are just seven entrees on his menu, including grilled filet mignon, Asian-style crab cakes, Eichner Farms chicken, pan-seared sea scallops with squid ink risotto, shrimp pad thai, and wild striped bass.
Delicious desserts feature a creme brulee tasting, where diners can choose from green tea, mango vanilla and chocolate cayenne creme brulee.
"Our menu will change seasonally," says Whittenberger, who's married with three children and lives in the South Hills. "I think the most important quality a chef can have is the knowledge of taking different countries' ingredients and pairing them with American dishes. I like to bring different ethnicities into a dish, mixing and meshing them all together. A lot of customers like our Asian food."
Blue obtains its fresh seafood from Samuels & Sons, out of Philadelphia, and gets most of its fresh produce, exotic foods and Asian specialty foods from the Strip District. Harvest Valley Farms and Eichner Farms also provide Blue with items.
Whittenberger, who knew he wanted to be a chef when he was in seventh grade, says the best part of the job is the interaction with guests.
"I like to go around to the different tables and talk to the customers," he says. "I've been really passionate about wine since I've become a chef, and I like directing guests into the menu and wine choices."
Blue executive chef Jay Whittenberger chose his easy and popular Fish Tacos appetizer. Preparation takes just minutes, and the tacos turn out delightfully spicy and filling.
"We sell a lot of fish tacos," he says. "We have several customers who eat three or four orders a day."
Fish tacos go well with a sweet white wine such as Riesling.
This should be prepared at least 30 minutes before making the tacos to allow the flavors to blend.
• 2 (6-ounce) salmon fillets
• Salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
• Olive oil
• 6 small flour tortillas
For the Chipotle Aioli:
• 3 large egg yolks
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon chipotle in adobo
• 1 1/2 cups blended oil
• 1/2 bunch cilantro
• 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice
• Salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
For the Mango and Chayote Slaw (prepared ahead):
• 1 whole mango, julienned
• 1 whole Chayote squash, julienned (can find this squash at Reyna's in the Strip District or in Giant Eagle Market District)
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1/2 red onion, julienned
• 1/2 bunch of fresh cilantro
• 1 teaspoon premium olive oil
• 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice
• Salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
Cut the salmon fillets in half, straight through the middle. Slice into 1-ounce pieces the length of the taco shell, so that each piece of salmon goes from end to end of the shell.
Sprinkle the salmon pieces with salt and white pepper, and rub a small amount of olive oil onto the pieces.
Grill each side of the salmon pieces for 1 minute.
To prepare the Chipotle Aioli: Place the egg yolks (see Photo 1) in a food processor with the Dijon mustard and chipotle. Turn the food processor on high, slowly adding the blended oil in thirds. When the aioli has a thick consistency, add the fresh cilantro and lemon juice. Season with salt and white pepper.
To prepare the Mango and Chayote Slaw: Toss the mango, squash, garlic, onion, cilantro, oil, lime juice and seasonings in a mixing bowl and let the flavors marinate for 30 minutes.
To plate: Warm the tortillas on the grill for a couple of minutes, then place 1 teaspoon of the aioli inside each shell. Place the salmon on top of the aioli, and fill the remainder of the shell with the mango and chayote slaw.
Hold each tortilla together with a wooden skewer or toothpick.
Makes 2 servings.
Additional Information:
Blue
Cuisine: Global Asian influence
Hours: 4-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 4-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 4-9 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday. Bar open until 2 a.m.
Entree price range: $24-$31
Notes: Reservations suggested. Major credit cards accepted. Handicap-accessible. Two private party rooms with 45 combined seats, in addition to the main dining area. Live jazz on Tuesday and Thursday nights. Daily features and happy-hour specials. Fifty specialty vodkas. Catering available starting in July.
Address: Duncan Manor Plaza, 1701 Duncan Ave., McCandless
Details: 412-369-9050 or website
