Book celebrates traditions of Jews in north Africa

Around the world, Jewish enclaves observe religious customs with traditional food. In the north African nation of Morocco, the Jewish community cooks gastronomic delights using Spanish, Moorish and traditional Jewish influences.

The ancestors of these Jews, known as Sephardim, fled Spain during the late 15th century, when Spanish inquisitors forced them to convert to Roman Catholicism or face exile. "The Scent of Orange Blossoms" celebrates that Sephardic heritage and cuisine.

This 208-page hardcover cookbook contains recipes for condiments, appetizers, soups, salads, breads, main courses, side dishes, desserts, preserves and beverages, with traditional menus for Jewish holiday meals. The book features colorful and exotic photographs of the prepared recipes and vintage black-and-white family portraits.

Citrus is a prominent ingredient in Sephardic cooking. Danielle Mamane serves Roasted Chicken with Orange Juice and Candied Carrots when she hosts a luncheon for participants in co-author Kitty Morse's annual gastronomic tours of Morocco. Morse, now living in the United States, says she has fond memories of sweet Candied Oranges served in her great-grandmother's Casablanca salon.

• 2 cups freshly squeezed orange juice
• 2 chicken bouillon cubes, crumbled
• 1 (4-pound) roasting chicken, cleaned and patted dry
• Salt to taste
• Black pepper, freshly ground, to taste

Heat the oven to 325 degrees. In a small bowl, combine the orange juice with the bouillon cubes, and whisk to dissolve the cubes.

Place the chicken in a roasting pan and season the cavity with salt and pepper. Spoon half of the juice mixture over and into the cavity of the bird. Roast, basting occasionally with the remaining juice mixture, for 2 to 2 1/4 hours, until the legs move easily.

Let the chicken rest for 10 minutes before carving. Serve the chicken hot with the pan juices on the side.

Makes 4 servings.

• 2 pounds baby carrots, peeled
• 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• Juice of 1/2 lemon

In a large saucepan filled with boiling water, cook the carrots for 12 to 15 minutes, until tender. Drain and return to the pan.

Add the sugar, oil and lemon juice. Partially cover and cook over low heat for 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours, stirring gently once or twice so as not to damage the carrots, until evenly glazed. Serve hot.

Makes 8 servings.

• 4 large unblemished oranges (about 2 pounds)
• About 2 pounds granulated sugar
• 2/3 cup water
• 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, strained

Weigh the oranges. Weigh out an equal amount of sugar.

Using a fine grater, gently grate off and discard the peel of each orange. Place the fruit in a large bowl of water. Soak for 2 hours, then drain.

In a large saucepan filled with boiling water, boil the oranges for 10 to 12 minutes. Drain and allow to cool. Using a sharp knife, pierce each orange in 4 places.

In a large nonreactive pot over low heat, combine the weighed sugar, water and lemon juice; cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 to 20 minutes or until no grittiness remains. Do not let the mixture boil.

Add the oranges and cook, turning them over every 5 minutes, for 30 minutes. Skim off the foam.

Using a wooden spoon, gently press on the top of each orange to flatten it and let the syrup penetrate. Continue cooking, turning the oranges every 15 minutes, gently pressing on the fruit until it acquires a translucent appearance and the syrup turns a dark amber. This could take 90 minutes to 2 hours. Cooking time will vary depending upon the size of the oranges.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the oranges to a 2-quart glass jar. Pour the warm syrup into the jar through a fine-meshed sieve to remove any trace of foam. Seal and store at room temperature for as much as 6 months. Present the oranges whole, then cut into wedges for serving.

Makes about 1 quart.