Book offers tactics and recipes for entertaining the family

It's always interesting when the family gets together for a reunion.

In this case, we've waited the better part of two years - 21 months, to be exact - to meet again with "The Sopranos." The Emmy Award-winning HBO series returns Sunday with a bang and a bada-bing.

Over the past five seasons, we've learned to anticipate a weekly craving for ricotta pie and baked ziti. We weren't alone. Fans in quest of old country Italian fare drove "The Sopranos Family Cookbook: As Complied by Artie Bucco" (2002; Warner Books, Inc., and HBO; $19.95) onto the best-sellers list.

This time around, it's Carmela Soprano who is credited with pulling it all together in "Entertaining With The Sopranos" (Warner Books, Inc., and HBO; $29.99). Written by real-life author Allen Rucker, with recipes by Michele Scicolone, the new cookbook offers more than 75 new Neapolitan-based recipes.

But the truly delicious part is found in the many tips on entertaining -- from baptisms to funerals, graduation parties to bridal showers, poker games to film club meetings -- in the unique voice and inimitable style of the contributing character.

Silvio Dante offers rules on being the perfect godfather: "Sometimes you have to plan your whole life around this kid. Get used to it."

Dr. Jennifer Malfi provides advice on getting over the fear of hostessing: "What's you favorite flower• There's your decor. What's the most fun dress you own• There's your outfit. Who do you really like and not just tolerate• That's your guest list."

How to give a toast is covered by "Paulie Walnuts" Gualtieri: "Make it short, my friend. It's a toast for chrissakes, not an address to Congress."

And Meadow Soprano offers her Sociology 411 paper on why "My Grandmother Couldn't Cook," in which she concludes "food and love in the Italian-American culture are deeply, inextricably interconnected."

Those planning a pre-show "Sopranos" dinner this weekend will find "Entertaining With The Sopranos " a great addition to their cookbook shelves. And for those who merely want to enjoy renewing acquaintances with old TV friends, the photos and commentaries read like an old family album.

Before you tune into the newest season of "The Sopranos," get into the mood with some of Carmela's favorite Italian recipes. The following are from Entertaining with the Sopranos (Warner Books, Inc., and HBO; $29.95), by Allen Rucker and Michele Scicolone.

Spaghetti Pie

A version of a frittata - an Italian omelet - this main dish meal includes Genoa salami and prosciutto.

• 8 large eggs
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigianio-Reggiano cheese
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 1 pound spaghetti or bucatini, cooked and drained
• 2 ounces sliced Genoa salami or soppressata, chopped
• 2 ounces sliced prosciutto or boiled ham, chopped
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 4 ounces provolone cheese, chopped

In a large bowl, beat the eggs, grated cheese, and pepper. You will not need salt, because the meats and cheeses are salty. Add the spaghetti, salami and prosciutto to the bowl and toss well.

Heat the oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Pour half of the pasta into the skillet. Scatter the provolone on top. Pour on the remaining spaghetti mixture.

Turn the heat to medium-low. Cover the pan and cook for five minutes. Slide a spatula under the pie and lift it gently around the edges to allow some of the uncooked eggs to slide underneath. Cover and cook for 10 minutes, or until the eggs are almost set and the bottom is golden.

Meanwhile, heat the broiler.

Place the skillet under the broiler to brown the top and finish cooking the eggs, for about 3 to 5 minutes.

Run a spatula under the pie to loosen it. Lift the handle of the pan and slip the pie out onto a serving platter. Cut into wedges. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Makes 8 servings.

Little Chicken Meatballs

You can make the meatballs a day ahead of time. After baking, let cool, then cover and refrigerate until ready to add to the tomato sauce and simmer until hot.

• 1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs made from Italian or French bread (with the crusts removed)
• 1/4 cup milk
• 1 pound ground chicken or turkey
• 1 large egg, beaten
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
• 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped pine nuts
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flatleaf parsley, plus more for garnish
• 1 teaspoon salt
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 11/2 cups Tomato Sauce

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil a large roasting pan.

Soak the bread crumbs in the milk in a small bowl until it is absorbed. Lightly squeeze the bread crumbs.

In a large bowl, combine the soaked bread, chicken, egg, cheese, pine nuts, parsley, salt and pepper. Mix well with your hands.

Rinse your hands with cold water. Shape the mixture into 1-inch balls. It is important to make them all the same size so that they cook evenly. Place the balls in the prepared pan.

Bake the meatballs until lightly browned and cooked through, for about 10 to 12 minutes.

In a large skillet, bring the tomato sauce to a simmer. Add the meatballs and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add a little water if the sauce is too thick.

Serve hot, with a sprinkle of parsley.

Makes 8 servings.

Tomato Sauce

This chunky sauce can be made up to three days ahead of time. Let cool, then cover and store in the refrigerator. The sauce can also be frozen.

• 1 small onion, chopped
• 1 clove garlic, chopped
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 can (28 ounces) Italian-style crushed tomatoes
• 2 fresh basil leaves, torn into bits
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

In a medium saucepan, cook the onion and garlic in the oil over medium heat until tender and golden, for about 10 minutes.

Add the tomatoes, basil, salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the sauce is thickened.

Serve hot with meatballs, pasta or eggplant.

Makes 3 cups.

Cannelloni

Perfect for feeding a large crowd, the cannelloni can be assembled up to 1 day ahead. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Bechamel Sauce (See recipe)

• 1 1/2 cups freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, divided
• Water
• 1 1/2 pounds homemade or store-bought fresh pasta, such as fresh lasagne sheets, cut into 4-inch squares

For the filling:

• 1 pound ground veal
• 8 ounces Italian-style pork sausage, casings removed
• 1 large clove garlic, minced
• Two packages (10 ounces each) frozen chopped spinach, cooked, drained and squeezed dry
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Prepare the bechamel sauce and set aside.

To make the filling: Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the meats and garlic and cook, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, until the meat is no longer pink. Tip the pan and spoon off the excess fat. Stir in the spinach and 1 cup of the bechamel sauce. Taste and season with salt and pepper, if needed. If the sausage is highly seasoned, you may not need any. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly, then stir in 1 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add salt to taste. Have ready a large bowl of cold water, and spread out some lint-free (not terry cloth) kitchen towels on a flat surface.

Add the pasta squares to the pot a few at a time and cook for less than 1 minute; they should be slightly underdone. Scoop the pasta out of the pot and place it in the cold water until cool enough to handle, then lay the pasta squares out flat on the towels. Continue cooking and cooling the remaining pasta in the same way.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter two 11-by-8-by-2-inch baking dishes.

To assemble the cannelloni, spread a thin layer of bechamel sauce over the bottom of each baking dish.

Spread some of the filling over each pasta square, leaving a 1/2-inch border along one side. Starting at the opposite side, loosely roll up each pasta square and place the rolls seam side down in the baking dishes. Spoon the remaining sauce over the pasta. Sprinkle with 1/2 cup cheese.

Bake for 20 minutes -- longer if the dish has been refrigerated -- or until the sauce is bubbling and the top is golden brown. Serve hot.

Makes 12 servings.

Baked Ziti 'In Bianco'

Feed the entire "mob" with this pan of pasta in creamy white sauce.

Bechamel Sauce (See recipe)

• Water
• Salt
• 1 pound uncooked ziti
• 4 tablespoons ( 1/2 stick) unsalted butter
• 6 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 6 ounces smoked mozzarella cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 4 ounces thick-sliced boiled ham, cut into narrow strips
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Prepare the bechamel sauce and set aside.

Bring at least 4 quarts of salted water to a boil in a large pot. Add the ziti. Cook, stirring frequently, until the ziti is al dente, tender yet still firm to the bite.

Meanwhile, heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter an 11 1/2-by-8 1/2-by-2-inch baking dish.

Drain the ziti. In a large bowl, toss the ziti with the butter. Spoon a thin layer of bechamel sauce into the baking dish. Make a layer of about 1/4 of the pasta. Sprinkle with 1/3 of the fresh and smoked mozzarella and ham and 2 tablespoons of the grated cheese. Make a second thin layer of sauce. Repeat layering the pasta, mozzarella, ham and sauce, ending with sauce and grated cheese.

Bake the pasta for 40 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbling and the top is lightly browned. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.

Makes 8-12 servings.

Bechamel Sauce

This creamy white sauce is the basis for many recipes. It can be made up to 24 hours before using.

• 4 cups milk
• 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
• Salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste

Heat the milk in a medium saucepan until small bubbles form around the edges.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the flour and stir well. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.

Very slowly begin adding the hot milk in a thin stream, whisking constantly. The sauce will look lumpy at first, but it will smooth out as you continue to add the milk. When all of the milk has been added, stir in the nutmeg and salt and pepper. Raise the heat to medium and bring the sauce to a simmer. Cook for 2 minutes more. Remove from the heat and pour into a bowl.

Use immediately, or place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface to prevent a skin from forming and chill.

Makes 4 cups.