Joe Carei had every intention to make a career out of writing -- news, in particular. A native of Vineland, NJ, he received a bachelor's degree in journalism and a minor in English at Susquehanna University in Selinsgrove, Pa., about 90 minutes west of the Pocono Mountain resort areas. He and his wife, Stacy, a native of Brownsville, settled in the Pittsburgh area as newlyweds, and Carei pounded the streets looking to get his foot in the door. At the time, the Pittsburgh Press was on strike and "there wasn't a job to be found," he says. So he secured a position doing something he already had experience in -- running a restaurant. It was a good move. Carei, who, with his wife, co-owns Caileigh's Restaurant and the Thompson Tavern in Uniontown, Fayette County, has been tapped as the 2005 Restaurateur of the Year by the Pennsylvania Restaurant Association. Caileigh's is named after his oldest daughter, who is 13 and already is working there, busing tables. The Careis also have two younger children, Braden and Maeve. "I started washing dishes at 16," says Carei, whose toque is embroidered with "Chief Chef & Bottlewasher." While attending college, he managed an Italian restaurant for several years, then spent a year in Europe. He is self-taught in the kitchen, although he has and continues to attend the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., especially via the Internet. He's taking basic courses in classical French cuisine to hone his skills. Carei says he doesn't have a clear definition of Caileigh's cuisine -- when pushed, he defines it as American with French and Italian influences. "I just do what I like," he says. The fine-dining menu features a wild mushroom strudel and butternut squash ravioli among appetizers. Kobe steak -- for an unbelievably reasonable $28.95; veal, chicken or beef Oscar; Adams County duck; pecan-crusted walleye; herb and honey grilled pork loin; and seafood manicotti are among entrees. A vegetarian menu also is offered. Part of the honor of Restaurateur of the Year is for Carei's dedication to the community through fund-raisers for charities including cystic fibrosis, juvenile diabetes, the Humane Society, muscular dystrophy and cancer; and donated gift certificates for charity. Carei knows how catastrophic illnesses can affect a family. In 2002, he was diagnosed with stage III colon cancer. "We never would have made it without help and support from the community," he says. Despite 18 months of a combination of chemotherapy, radiation and surgery, Carei continued his outreach -- just a month after his diagnosis, he planned an Omelette Run to raise money for a leukemia victim. The run has become an annual fund-raising event. Carei also holds quarterly seminars for the Laurel Highlands chapter of the Pennsylvania Restaurant Association, of which he is president. He also shares cooking tips and recipes with the community on a weekly radio show on WMBS in Uniontown and a weekly television show on HSTV. Caileigh's Restaurant, 105 E. Fayette St., Uniontown, is open for brunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sundays, for dinner from 4 to 10 p.m. Mondays, and for lunch and dinner from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays. Details: 724-437-9463, www.caileighs.com . Pork Loin Stuffed with Braised Cabbage, Apple Cremes This is a perfect cold weather menu. The cabbage stuffing also can be used as a side dish, and the apple cremes are wonderful as a dessert with ice cream. 1 boneless pork loin, about 3 pounds Olive oil About 2 fresh carrots, trimmed and coarsely chopped, blanched for 10 minutes, plunged in ice water, drained 2 cloves garlic, minced, to taste Chopped fresh thyme, to taste Apple Creme (recipe below) Smashed Potatoes (recipe below) Sauteed, steamed or boiled vegetables, such as haricots verts, for plating Thyme sprigs, for garnish Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish For the braised candied cabbage: 1/2 small head red cabbage, about 2 pounds 1/4 cup olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried 1/4 cup firmly packed light or dark brown sugar 1 tablespoon honey 1/4 cup port wine To prepare the cabbage: Julienne the cabbage (cut into thin strips). Heat the olive oil in a deep skillet or pot with a lid and add the cabbage, tossing for a few minutes, to coat with the oil and soften. Do not brown. Season with salt and pepper. Cover the skillet and let braise slowly over medium-low heat for about 15 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is tender-crisp. Add the sugar, honey and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme; cook for 10 to 15 minutes more, uncovered, until no liquid remains, stirring occasionally. Add the port wine ( see Photo A ) and reduce, uncovered, for another 5 minutes. Let cool. The cabbage can be made as long as 2 days ahead; refrigerate. Trim the pork loin of fat, leaving a little bit on one long end. Butterfly the loin using this method: With a sharp knife, cut into the pork loin about 1/2 inch from the bottom, not going all the way through, to open the meat up like an envelope or pages from a book ( Photo B ). Again, using the sharp knife, cut a 1/2-inch slice through the larger side of the meat, starting from the inside and not going all the way through, to form a third "page." Lay the pork out flat, long end toward you and fat side away from you. Pound the meat lightly, using a meat mallet, to make a uniformly thick rectangle ( Photo C ). Spread some of the braised cabbage over the entire surface of the meat. Sprinkle with the blanched carrots. Roll up jellyroll-style toward the fat side ( Photo D ). With the fat side facing up, coat the pork lightly with olive oil and sprinkle with minced garlic and chopped thyme. Heat the oven to 450 degrees. Place the pork loin onto a baking sheet and put it into the hot oven for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees and roast about 1 more hour, until an instant meat thermometer inserted into a thick part of the meat reaches 155 degrees. Remove from the oven and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes. While the pork cooks, prepare the Apple Creme (recipe below). Toward the end of the cooking time for the stuffed pork and the apple creme, prepare the Smashed Potatoes. To plate: Place a dollop of mashed potatoes in the middle of 6 dinner plates. Slice the pork loin into 12 pieces and lay 2 each per plate on top of the potatoes. Place the haricots verts on the mashed potatoes to the side of the pork slices. Run a knife around the edges of the apple creme to loosen, then use a flexible spatula to coax the dessert out of the ramekins ( Photo E ). Place to the side of the pork loin. Garnish with some of the remaining cooked red cabbage, some thyme sprigs and chopped parsley. Apple Creme 2 tablespoons butter, divided 3 Granny Smith apples, about 1 pound, peeled and chopped 2 shots (1/4 cup) apple schnapps 1/4 teaspoon salt 3 large eggs 1 large egg yolk 3 tablespoons granulated sugar 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 2/3 cup heavy cream Boiling water (for water bath) Using 1 tablespoon of the butter, grease six (4-ounce) ramekins or a 1-quart casserole. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Melt the remaining tablespoon butter in a skillet and saute the apples for 15 to 20 minutes; do not brown them. Add the apple schnapps and reduce the mixture for a few minutes, until the apples are soft. Set aside to cool. In a bowl, combine the salt, eggs, egg yolk, sugar and spices. Whisk in the heavy cream and fold in the cooled apple mixture. Arrange the ramekins or casserole in a baking pan and pour boiling water a little more than halfway up the sides. Bake for 25 minutes. Remove and let cool. Smashed Potatoes 2 pounds new red potatoes (waxy) Salt Cold water 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/4 cup roasted garlic (about 6 cloves) 7 tablespoons butter 1/4 cup grated asiago cheese 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley Dice the unpeeled potatoes and place in a pot of cold salted water to cover. Boil until tender, for 10 to 15 minutes. Drain. Heat the olive oil in a skillet and saute the garlic until it is tan in color. Add the butter and let it melt. Place the hot potatoes in a mixing bowl. Using the paddle attachment of an electric mixer, "smash" them (do not whip until smooth -- leave some lumps), then add the butter mixture and mix. Fold in the 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, the pepper and 2 tablespoons chopped parsley until combined. Adjust the seasonings to taste.

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