In Europe, multigenerational winemaking domains are common -- after all, wine has held a prominent role in that continent's culture for nearly 2,000 years.
At a young age, many European winemakers realized their destiny by working in rhythm with the seasons of the vineyards and wineries.
Not so in the United States. The abomination of Prohibition rudely interrupted a thriving winemaking industry. Winemaking American families who have passed the tradition through several generations are rare; most have come to the profession from myriad and assorted paths and backgrounds.
Barry Bergman of R.H. Phillips Winery in northern California grew up in Flagstaff in northern Arizona without experiencing wine or winemaking. His parents were not wine drinkers.
But through the influence of an older brother and by working in a restaurant that sold fine wines, Bergman became enchanted with the flavors and mysteries of the grape. After having an unfruitful experience studying history in college, he lolled a while in Colorado ski country before plunging into winemaking studies at the University of California at Davis.
Bergman -- then in his mid-20s -- arrived at those hallowed halls without ever having seen either a vineyard or a winery. He just knew that winemaking was what he wanted to do with his life.
"I took a leap, but I've never looked back or regretted it," says Bergman in a recent telephone interview. "I love winemaking."
During his studies at UC-Davis, Bergman began working at R.H. Phillips Vineyard and winery to help pay his way through school. He quickly became accustomed to the rigors of the process.
"Winemaking is essentially farming. The growing season is very busy in the vineyards," Bergman says. "During the harvest, of course, it becomes busy in the winery, working six- and seven-day weeks, 16 hours or more a day.
"Like any career or business, it takes a lot of energy and passion to be successful."
After graduating in the late 1980s, Bergman worked as an assistant winemaker at R.H. Phillips.
The vineyards and winery are in a unique microclimate called the Dunnigan Hills, 40 miles northwest of Sacramento -- a region of extreme heat -- and due east of Calistoga in Napa Valley -- marked by somewhat cooler temperatures.
Bergman characterizes the Dunnigan Hills climate as "Mediterranean," with annual mean temperature ranges between 50 and 62 degrees. Daytime summer temperatures are around 95 degrees; at night, they fall to between 55 and 65 degrees.
This climate -- along with distinctive, well-drained gravelly loam soils in the uplands and hillside terraces -- enabled the Giguiere family, who founded R.H. Phillips, and Bergman to have the region designated as an official American Viticulture Area during the early 1990s.
Because of the high daytime temperatures during August and September, Bergman and his team harvest at night. "Northern California has low humidity, so it is not unusual to have 40-degree temperature swings between day and night," he says. Harvesting in the evenings keeps the juice cooler, so white wines have cleaner and fresher fruity aromas. The cooler juice also makes its easier to "cold soak" red grapes overnight before fermentation to enhance color extraction.
In 1994, Bergman was appointed winemaker at R.H. Phillips. Under his leadership, the winery produces a full range of varieties including cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petite sirah, zinfandel, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc.
Under the EXP label, the winery offers what Bergman classifies as "Mediterranean" varieties, including viognier, syrah and tempranillo.
"These varieties match well with the range of our climate," he says. "Syrah and viognier thrive in the northern Rhône Valley of France, where it is warm but somewhat cooler than the southern Rhône."
Try the following:
2002 EXP Viognier, Dunnigan Hills, Calif. (9236, $14.99): This lovely white wine has classic floral aromatics that lead many consumers to think of an off-dry finish. But like the great whites of Condrieu -- also made from viognier grapes -- EXP's is finished dry. It starts with a golden color and then presents classic delicate aromas of honeysuckle, tropical fruit and citrus before opening with wonderful crisp flavors of oranges and peaches, and a touch of honey. The medium body is balanced with refreshing acidity through an elegant dry finish. Try it with grilled seafood. Highly recommended.
2001 EXP Syrah, Dunnigan Hills, Calif. (8320, on sale: $11.99): The wine has a deep purple color and fruity aromas of blueberries, raspberries and chocolate with a touch of violet perfume. The fruity flavors follow suit with ripe raspberries and plums with spicy nuances balanced by soft tannins and a fruity, robust finish. Try it with roast beef. Recommended.
Best buy
2002 Mazzocco Vineyards Viognier, Bevill Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley, Calif. (available nationally for $24): The wine has a deep golden color and fresh aromas of peaches and honeysuckle with oaky nuances before delivering lush, mouth-coating flavors of peaches, apricots and honey balanced with good acidity and a long, warm, dry finish with plenty of ripe fruit. This is a richer style of viognier that matches dishes having a spicy touch. Recommended. Additional Information:
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