Chez Gerard offers fine French cuisine

Hopwood is a long way from France, and not just in distance. This village in Fayette County -- one of the poorest in the Commonwealth -- isn't where one would expect to find classic French cooking in a restored historic inn. But there it is, Chez Gerard, just down National Road from the burger-and-fries mills that beckon Americans to pick up a one-minute assembly-line meal each day on the way home from work.

Chez Gerard's owners, William and Muriel Severac, are French. He is an experienced chef, she is trained in European hospitality management. The cuisine and hospitality are French, too, right down to the bistro-style bar at the front of the restaurant. Linger for a while, enjoying a glass of wine or two. No hurry. And leave room for dessert -- crème brulee with lemon and fresh thyme• Chocolate souffle• Or stuffed puff pastry with seasonal fruits•

"We didn't want too big of a restaurant," Muriel says. "Eighty people can be served, but we usually average 45."

They were working in Florida when they spotted Chez Gerard, under a previous owner, on the Internet.

"We came up in the fall. It was so beautiful at that time," Muriel says.

They fell in love. The Severacs bought the restaurant in 2000 and have worked to reflect their gastronomic and personal philosophies.

"When people are going to France, this is what they are looking for," William says.

He aims to deliver with prix fixe lunch ($22) and dinner ($46) menus as well as an a la carte Sunday brunch.

Dinner features a chef's starter changed daily; soup, snails, salad, gnocchi and -- for adventurers -- a deconstructed homemade duck pate with red beets and fig puree. The third course offers fresh fish and seafood, pasta, vegetarian items, duck, rabbit, guinea hen, beef and venison. As is traditional in France, an assortment of French cheeses are passed for the fourth course. Muriel Severac travels to the Strip District regularly to choose what she wants. Dessert includes a roasted golden apple with pumpkin seed brittle and a Napoleon Mint Wafer with coconut-chocolate filling and fresh banana brulee.

"It might seem unusual to some people," Muriel says, "but once they try our food, they are going to come back."

The Severacs are parents of three children: Megan, 11; Alexane, 9; and Gabriel, 2. You can't miss the kids; there are photos here and there along the walls in the dining rooms and hallways. The couple wants diners to feel at home.

"The previous owner was quite formal," says the chef. "Maybe in a big city that would work, but it can be intimidating." Adds his wife, "Nice, casual outfits are fine. I want people to feel comfortable."

The Severacs request reservations so they have enough fresh ingredients on hand to satisfy their clientele.

Pumpkin Pancake with Crab Cake, Balsamic and Tomato Dressing

This autumn dish is served with fried zucchini strings and roasted pumpkin seeds. Executive chef/co-owner William Severac of Chez Gerard also offers crab cakes with a tomato risotto on the restaurant's menu.

• Roasted pumpkin seeds (instructions follow)

For the pumpkin pancakes:

• 5 1/2 ounces mashed pumpkin puree
• 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 3 tablespoons milk
• 1 large egg
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Nutmeg, to taste
• 1 tablespoon butter

For the crab cakes:

• 1 1/4 cups lump crabmeat
• 1/4 cup green asparagus, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs (made from baguettes)
• 2 1/2 teaspoons mayonnaise
• Crushed red pepper and salt, to taste
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon butter

For the balsamic reduction:

• 1 cup balsamic vinegar
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar

For the dried tomato coulis:

• 3 teaspoons chopped dried tomatoes
• 1 1/2 cups water

For the zucchini strings:

• 1 small zucchini
• All-purpose flour, as needed
• 3 cups vegetable oil, for deep-frying

To roast the pumpkin seeds: Place dried pumpkin seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat and cook, stirring or shaking the pan often to prevent burning. The seeds will become fragrant. This should take about 4 minutes. Immediately turn onto a plate or chopping board to let cool quickly.

To prepare the pumpkin pancakes: Combine the pumpkin puree, flour, milk, egg, baking powder, salt, black pepper and nutmeg. Stir well. Let rest for 30 minutes.

To prepare the crab cake: Combine all ingredients in a bowl. Refrigerate.

To prepare the balsamic reduction: Put the vinegar and sugar into a saute pan. Reduce slowly (on a simmer) until of a thick consistency. Set aside.

To prepare the dried tomato coulis: Put the dried tomatoes and water into small pot and place over medium heat. Simmer for about 2 minutes. Place in a food processor, process until pureed, strain the mixture, remove the seeds, season and set aside.

To make the zucchini strings: Cut the zucchini into small strips, trimming and discarding the peel as you go. Toss with a small amount of flour, then place the zucchini in a strainer to tap off the excess flour. Heat the vegetable oil to 350 degrees. Fry the zucchini trips until golden and crunchy. Drain on paper towels.

Cooking and assembly: Remove the crab mixture from the refrigerator and divide it into 4 portions. Form into cakes. You can use a silicone mold or a piece of cut PVC pipe to make perfect edges, if you want.

Make the pancakes: Heat the clarified butter in a 12-inch skillet until very hot. Add the pancake batter to the center of the skillet, using a spoon and continuing to mound, until you have a thick cake. Cook on the first side until bubbles appear on the top side, then flip and finish cooking the other side. Transfer to a plate and repeat to make 3 more pancakes. If desired, use a cutter to make a perfectly round pancake that's a bit bigger than the crab cakes.

Cook the crab cakes: Heat the olive oil and butter together in a skillet until very hot. Add the crab cakes and cook on each side until they are a nice golden brown.

To assemble: Using a spoon or a squeeze bottle, make "Picasso-like" streaks of the balsamic reduction and tomato coulis on each of four dinner plates. Place a pancake in the middle of the plates, then top each in the center with a crab cake. Garnish with zucchini strings and roasted pumpkin seeds.

Additional Information:

Details

Chez Gerard, along Business Route 40, Hopwood, is open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and for dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays; and from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. for Sunday brunch. Closed Tuesdays. Details: 724-437-9001, www.chezgerard.net

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