Craft beer gets ready to take on Western Pennsylvania

Local craft-beer geeks who have long craved a little Smuttynose, rejoice. Just in time for Thanksgiving, Smuttynose Brewing Co.'s highly coveted crafts beers have arrived in Western Pennsylvania.

According to Tony "The Beerman" Knipling of Millvale-based Vecenie Distributing Company, extensive Atlantic Coast distribution over the last 15 years cemented Smuttynose's reputation for high-quality beers delivered with a solid sense of humor. But limited production at the brewery in Portsmouth, N.H., stymied steady supplies west of the Allegheny Mountains.

Eventually, though, says Smuttynose founder Peter Egelston, with tongue planted at least partially in cheek, our prodigious local thirst could not be denied.

The brand's humor begins, of course, with the name itself.

"We wanted a name to create a local connection, and Smuttynose is one of the nine Isles of Shoals east from the Portsmouth beaches," Egelston says. "We also liked Smuttynose as a whimsical, memorable name even though we weren't quite sure how the wider public would embrace it."

Not to worry. Craft beer fans love both the name and the beers. For instance, Smuttynose Shoals Pale Ale , the brewery's first release in 1994, still enjoys a fiercely loyal following.

"It is an American interpretation of Britain's classic Extra Special Bitters Ale," Egelston says. "It best represents what we do with a nice copper color, a nice hops presence and a tasty malty flavor at the beginning."

"I enjoy Smuttynose Shoals Pale Ale with homemade pizza," Knipling says. "The hops in the background go well with the tangy tomato sauce." Indeed, Shoals Pale Ale's overall balance will match well with the full range of holiday party fare. Relatively modest 4.7 percent alcohol by volume by craft beer standards makes a real crowd pleaser.

As Egelston's "sentimental" favorite, Smuttynose Old Brown Dog Ale 's label features his now deceased, but fondly remembered, brown dog, Olive.

"She lives on in our memory since we put out about 2 million images of her every year on beer bottles," Egelston says.

The beer's rich, brown hue offers enticing sweet malt aromas opening to mellow malty flavors balanced perfectly with tasty fruity nuances and crisp American hops notes. Smuttynose Old Brown Dog Ale will pair perfectly with both cold weather beef dishes and roasted turkey with stuffing and gravy.

Turning to the wildly popular "hop head" category, Smuttynose IPA now represents the brewery's best seller.

"We were kind of late to the highly hopped India Pale Ale party," Egelston says with a laugh.

Back in 1994, Shoals Pale Ale was considered "darned hoppy," but eventually Egelston heeded calls for "really hoppy beer" by crafting Smuttynose IPA with extra-bold dry hopping. Because Smuttynose never filters, the extra hopping occasionally creates slight, but perfectly natural sediment in the bottle.

The beer's high American-hops quotient creates bold citrus, mint and spicy aromas, yet its light and well-balanced, gold-colored body offers refreshing citrus and smooth hop bitterness. The beer can be enjoyed on its own for its terrific flavors and refreshment at holiday parties.

Smuttynose Brewing Co.'s other popular beers such as the Belgian "session" style Star Island Single , the Robust Porter and The Big Bottle Series (served exclusively in 22-ounce bottles) also will be available locally at better bottle shops and pubs. Check the Vecenie Distributing Co.'s Web site at www.beersince1933.com for complete details.

For an excellent white wine for Thanksgiving, try the following:

2007 Cinque Terre, Italy (Specialty 25161; $25.99): Northwestern Italy's rugged Riviera coastline features steeply terraced hillsides dotted by five ancient villages ("cinque terre" in Italian) amidst lemon trees, olive groves and vineyards. The entire rocky, yet ravishingly beautiful, seaside area serves as both an Italian national park and UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Its sunny days and chilly nights create perfect white-wine terroir. Grape growers from the five villages of Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore use the well equipped "Cooperativa Agricoltura" to make terrific wines from the unique blend of Vermentino, Bosco and Albarola.

This wine's golden color offers ripe apple and pear aromas with bracing lemon notes. Fruity pear and refreshing citrus flavors layer in fine acidity and a touch of creaminess through an elegantly dry finish. Highly recommended.