Customers, employees keep Kaufman House cooking

The historic Kaufman House in Zelienople claims a history of a number of hotels, inns and taverns since the early 1800s. It became a restaurant in 1973, with only four executive chefs serving customers over the past 37 years.

The latest one, Todd Nelson, 34, worked as a cook there for a couple of years before becoming executive chef in 1999.

"All of the cooks have been here five years or longer," says Nelson, an Evans City native who attended the International Culinary Academy in Pittsburgh (now Pennsylvania Culinary Institute). "My sous chef, Joe Sipes, has been here 10 years. This place is like family. I look forward to coming here every day. I like my job, and I like what I do."

Nelson, who graduated from Seneca Valley High School in 1993, first went to school for accounting but quickly found out he couldn't sit at a desk all day.

"I always loved cooking, but I didn't grow up learning a lot of family recipes," he says. "I learned a lot here on the job."

Two entrees that have been favorites since 1973 are still on the menu -- the prime rib and fried chicken -- and Nelson wouldn't change that for anything. Liver and onions is also a signature dish that has been on the menu for a long time.

"We have a lot of loyal customers who order (those entrees) every week," Nelson says. "But I change the menu three to four times a year, and I create all the items on the menu."

One of his entrees, the Raspberry-Jalapeno Barbecue Ribs, was featured on the "Live With Regis and Kelly" show last year, after someone nominated Nelson and he became one of five nationwide finalists.

"I came up with the barbecue sauce for the show on the fly," he says with a smile. "I wanted something spicy and fruity at the same time. These ribs are a big seller on the menu. But I didn't win."

The menu is a comfortable American one, featuring entrees such as crab-stuffed shrimp; coconut-breaded chicken in a Romano sambuca cream sauce and crispy fried spinach; chicken with almonds and apricot brandy, and sauteed sea scallops with wild mushrooms and shallots.

There are also some surprises, such as the banana pepper pasta, stuffed with sweet Italian sausage and topped with marinara, provolone and parmigian cheese. The lobster pot entree incorporates langostinos, green onions and mushrooms sauteed in garlic butter, while the jumbo lump crab cakes are served over a sweet corn relish and topped with roasted tomato remoulade.

"We make everything from scratch here, and I'm using more local ingredients," Nelson says. "We try to get as much produce from this area as we can, but I do go to the Strip District occasionally. We get our meats and seafood from Curtze in Erie and Sysco in Pittsburgh."

The building that houses the present restaurant was built in 1903, after Zelienople's "Great Fire" of 1902 destroyed the previous hotel. The late E.F. Kaufman bought the hotel in 1924, and it stayed in his family until 1944, when William J. Thomas purchased The Kaufman Hotel.

Ken and the late Marjorie Pilarski bought the place in 1974 and renamed it The Kaufman House. Son Doug Pilarski has been the general manager of the 220-seat restaurant since 1995. The comfortable yet elegant restaurant features four dining rooms, a coffee shop and a lounge, with original stained glass windows, oak hardwood floors and deep green carpeting.

"We are known for service and hospitality to the customer," says Pilarski, 39, a Penn State graduate who lives in Ellwood City with his wife, Natalie, and two sons. "A lot of our customers travel from Pittsburgh and other areas, but we get a lot of local customers, too."

It is unusual for a restaurant this old to have so few executive chefs, he agrees, but he's not surprised.

"We treat everyone like family," he says. "Todd is a young, fresh, up-to-date chef with great ideas. We give him the full flexibility to do what he wants to do."

The Kaufman House is open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Nelson oversees 15 kitchen employees. He also presides over the popular beer, wine and martini dinners that are held every other month, where guests enjoy a five- or six-course meal.

Nelson works long hours, but that doesn't bother him in the least.

"I like the fast-paced atmosphere and the challenges," he says. "The most important quality a chef can have is patience. When you're really busy, you have to relax and focus on your job. You gain more respect from your employees by being patient."

The Kaufman House's executive chef, Todd Nelson, is sharing his delicious, fall-off-the-bone Raspberry-Jalapeno Barbecue Ribs recipe that was featured last year on "Live With Regis and Kelly." The key to making perfect ribs, he says, is the slow cooking process.

"You need a low temperature -- not over 250 degrees -- and cook them for a long time," Nelson says. "You also need a good sauce."

Nelson suggests serving these sweet and spicy ribs with a side of french fries and a robust beer.

• 2 racks pork style (St. Louis style baby back)

For the rub:

• 6 tablespoons brown sugar

• 3 tablespoons kosher salt

• 1 tablespoon black pepper

• 1 tablespoon paprika

• 1 tablespoon garlic powder

• 1 tablespoon onion powder

• 1 tablespoon rubbed thyme

• 1 tablespoon ground cumin

Heat the oven to 250 degrees.

Peel the membrane from the back of the ribs; most grocery stores already will have this step done). Mix all the ingredients for the dry rub and spread the rub on both sides of the ribs. Rub into the meat very well.

Place the ribs on a sheet pan with sides to prevent drips. Cover with foil and bake for about 6 hours. When done, the meat should easily pull away from the bone.

Top with Raspberry-Jalapeno Barbecue Sauce and bake uncovered for an additional 15 to 30 minutes.

Makes 2 servings.

Raspberry-Jalapeno Barbecue Sauce

• 1 cup tomato sauce

• 2 tablespoons tomato paste

• 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

• 1/4 cup dark Karo syrup

• 2 drops Liquid Smoke

• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1 teaspoon garlic powder

• 1/2 teaspoon onion powder

• 1/4 cup brown sugar

• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar

• 2 tablespoons canned sliced jalapeno peppers

• 1/2 cup juice from canned jalapenos

• 1/4 cup honey

• 1 teaspoon molasses

• 1/2 cup frozen raspberries

Mix all ingredients in a heavy-bottomed pot. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer for 15 minutes, then puree (Photo 3) with a stick blender. Continue to simmer for 1 hour. Remove from the heat and store in the refrigerator, covered, for up to one month.

Additional Information:

The Kaufman House

Cuisine: American

Hours: 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Mondays-Thursday, 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, 7 a.m.-8:30 p.m. Sundays

Entree price range: $6.25-$20.95

Notes: Major credit cards accepted. Handicapped-accessible. Reservations recommended. All-you-can-eat pasta bar for lunch. Wine suggestions with meals. Wine, beer and martini dinners every other month.

Address : 105 S. Main St., Zelienople

Details: 724-452-8900 or website