East Liberty's Paris 66 cuisine, employees, heighten French experience

Sitting in a corner table at Paris 66 Bistro, chef Franck Lacaille is momentarily distracted as he chats with a visitor.

A few tables away, a guest is taking his first bites of the chef's special, roast duck with wild mushroom sauce. Lacaille watches as the waiter asks the diner if he enjoys the dish. When he answers with an enthusiastic, “yes,” the chef's eye light up.

Lacaille, who came to Pittsburgh in June, loves bringing a taste of his native France to people who might never get the chance to experience it otherwise. He's part of what Fred Rongier, owner of Paris 66 in East Liberty, calls his “French Dream Team.” The team includes head waiters Marie-Lise Girault and Renaud Daburon, as well as master pastry chef David Piquard.

“We are delighted to be offering such an authentic French dining experience,” says Rongier, a Parisian himself.

Born in Versailles, Lacaille most recently lived in southern France, though he's traveled extensively around the country. In Pittsburgh, he's enjoying the access to fresh produce the Strip District affords. He designs his specials based on what inspires him at the markets each morning.

“I like to feel, smell, touch,” he says. “I don't want to call and have someone deliver it.”

Lacaille is focused on remaining authentic to the traditional French cooking style, he says. The new menu he'll debut July 22 will keep some Paris 66 favorites such as housemade quiche, soups and croques, while introducing some other dishes popular in his home country.

Rongier says the intent is to serve “everyday French cuisine.” He wants to avoid the “fine dining” label.

“The good thing about French cuisine is it never goes out of style,” Rongier says. “It can be for everybody, whether you want to spend $10 or $50.”

When Paris 66 first opened in 2009, it was primarily known for salads, sandwiches and crepes. Since then, Rongier and his wife, Lori, have expanded their operation to a full-scale restaurant, and because of the popularity of Piquard's French macaroons and pastries, the Rongiers are opening a dedicated patisserie in Squirrel Hill in late July in order to meet demand. The name — Gaby et Jules — is a combination of Rongier's and Piquard's grandfathers' names. Both men had aspired to be bakers, though their dreams never came to fruition, Rongier says.

Rongier says it took them two months to find Lacaille, which they did via an industry hiring website.

Girault and Daburon, who came on board in February, hail from Bourges in central France. Girault says their goal is to make a trip to Paris 66 “like a little vacation” for locals. She says her customers appreciate her background and some even speak French to her — or, at least, attempt to.

“A lot of American people speak French or try to, so it's very cute,” she says with a smile.

There is, they admit, un petit difference in the way the French and Americans dine. Girault and Daburon say Americans don't typically linger over their meals the way the French do. They encourage people to take the time to enjoy the bistro's subdued ambiance, soft music and, of course, authentic cuisine.

“In France, dinner can take three, four hours,” Daburon says with a laugh. “You'll have drinks, appetizer, meat, fish, cheese, dessert.”

In addition to the French staff, the bistro's surroundings help transport diners to a Parisian eatery. Warm mustard-yellow walls, tabletop candles, small vases of fresh flowers and white linen tablecloths meld with the accordion music playing softly in the background to create a venue oozing so much romance, it's become known as a popular spot for marriage proposals. In the outdoor seating area, strings of lights hang overhead and a sparkling mini-Eiffel Tower add to the intimate vibe.

On July 14, that vibe will turn more celebratory when the bistro hosts its annual Bastille Day celebration. Festivities will begin at 10 a.m. and continue through the evening. The event will include a greeting from Jean-Dominique Le Garrec, the French Consul, to Pittsburgh.

The theme of the celebration will be “Paris in the 1920s,” and the restaurant will be set up as an authentic guinguette, a local gathering place popular in France in the early 20th century. Guests can stop by for brunch; all-you-can-eat mussels, fries and crepes; or a special prix fixe dinner menu. Reservations are recommended.

“We guarantee people will feel transported,” Lori Rongier says.

Paris 66 Bistro, 6018 Penn Circle South, East Liberty. Details: 412-404-8166 or paris66bistro.com

Rachel Weaver is a staff writer for Trib Total Media. She can be reached at 412-320-7948 or rweaver@tribweb.com.