Blue Dust in Homestead has been making a name for itself among vegans and carnivores alike since it opened in April 2009.

"We are trying to fill a void in Pittsburgh," says owner Jerry Miller of his eclectic menu and everything-made-from-scratch motto.

The family-run gastropub, situated right before the entrance to the old U.S. Steel Homestead Works on Amity Street, is the kind of place where people from all walks of life can feel at home and enjoy a good meal. That's how Miller envisioned his place years ago, while managing various restaurants and a beer distributorship. The Columbus, Ohio, native has been in Pittsburgh for 30 years and resides in Baldwin with his wife, Rosemary.

"Opening my own bar and restaurant has always been a dream, but I got sidetracked over the years," he says. "We want this to be a comfortable, delicious and friendly place to come visit. This was a former mill bar called Stein's. We wanted something different."

Miller kept some of the spirit of the world's largest steel mill in his 60-seat restaurant. Floor-to-ceiling charcoal images of the mill have been airbrushed onto the muted yellow walls. Miller's daughter, Sarah Cunniff, created the beautiful stained glass mosaic bar, which depicts the Homestead Works. Emerald green tables and royal blue chairs mesh nicely with the russet ceramic tile floor, and the antique ceiling fans suspended from the high ceilings add another touch of elegance.

The front wall, however, is Miller's concession to whimsy and individuality. He encourages customers to sign the wall before they leave, and it's obvious that many have obliged.

When Blue Dust first opened, there were only seven items on the menu. Everything is homemade, and Miller is proud to say that they don't even have a freezer in the kitchen.

"Fresh is always better," he says. "We get a lot of stuff from Pennsylvania Macaroni and Paragon Produce in the Strip, and Fiore Meats."

It's a family affair. Daughter Sarah, 26, works as the chef. Her husband, Frank Cunniff, 26, is the bartender. Miller's son, Zach, 29, is a med tech student who bartends part time, and daughter Kelly, 22, is a graduate student who also works there part time.

"I just learned how to cook on my own," Sarah Cunniff says, bustling about the large kitchen. "I kind of got suckered into this job. We had a cook, but he didn't work out. I'm helping Dad out to start his dream. We've made it a year, and that's the hardest part of opening a restaurant. Our goal is to stay open."

The menu changes seasonally. The hardest part of planning a menu is changing it enough to please all the different ethnicities in the area, Sarah Cunniff says. Every Tuesday, for example, she makes 25-cent pierogies, and changes the fillings each week.

"There are no burgers and fries on the menu," she says. "We wanted to have a place that was different from the Waterfront. We want to be distinctive."

Judging by the menu, Blue Dust has accomplished that goal. Starters include a red bean dip with tortilla chips; hummus and pita; tortilla chips with homemade smoked salsa; and artichoke dip with crostini.

The salads use mixed greens grown at Cunniff's uncle's farm in Belle Vernon. The small plates feature fried zucchini; red beans and rice; a falafel platter; nachos; and barbecued drumsticks. Sandwiches, which are served with salsa and chips, include smoked turkey; smoked brisket; Asian chicken wrap; crab roll; pulled pork tacos; fish tacos and a grilled three-cheese sandwich.

Entrees feature a smoked sausage pasta; crab meat pasta; broiled tilapia and wild rice; and a hearty vegetable stir fry. The desserts, such as chocolate stout cake, pound cake and custard cake, change weekly and are made on site. Beer dinners are offered three or four times a year.

Cunniff estimates that Blue Dust serves 150 dinners on a weekend night.

"Sometimes, there's pressure, but it's not really stressful," she says. "With eight employees, it's an easy amount of people to manage.

"The best part of this job is seeing the smiling faces of people having a good meal and beverage," she says.

Orchard Salad

Head chef Sarah Cunniff chose to share her popular Orchard Salad. It's an easy summer dish with an unusual, tasty dressing made from a Belgian raspberry beer called Framboise Lambic.

"The dressing is a collaboration between me and my dad," she says. "This salad would go great with a glass of the Framboise Lambic."

For the candied almonds:

• 1/2 cup butter

• 1/2 cup brown sugar

• 1 pound sliced almonds

For the Framboise dressing:

• 1 cup blended oil (olive and canola)

• 2 cups Framboise Lambic (Belgian raspberry beer)

• 1 tablespoon Grey Poupon mustard

• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• 1/2 teaspoon tarragon

• 1 clove garlic, crushed

• 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

• 4 teaspoons brown sugar

• 1 teaspoon sea salt

For salad:

• 4 cups lettuce, shredded

• 1 Fuji apple, seeded and sliced

• 1/2 cup mango ginger Stilton (can be found at Pennsylvania Macaroni Co. in the Strip District)

To prepare the candied almonds: Melt the butter over medium heat, then add the brown sugar and whisk until combined. Take off the heat and fold in the almonds. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet with sides, or on a nonstick baking pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes, or until golden brown, stirring halfway through.

To make the Framboise dressing: Whisk together all ingredients thoroughly in a bowl. Cover and refrigerate at least one hour, or prepare a day in advance.

To assemble the salad: Put 2 cups shredded lettuce on each plate. Divide the apple slices evenly and place on the lettuce. Sprinkle 1/4 cup of the ginger mango Stilton and 1/3 cup candied almonds over each plate. Drizzle several tablespoons (depending on desired amount) of the Framboise dressing over the top, and serve.

Makes 2 servings.

Additional Information:

Blue Dust

Cuisine: Eclectic

Hours: 11:37 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays, 11:37 a.m.-midnight Fridays and Saturdays, 11:37 a.m.-9 p.m. Sundays. Brunch offered from 11:37 a.m.-3:37 p.m. Sundays. Bar open until 2 a.m. daily.

Entree price range: $8.95-$16.95

Notes: Reservations accepted for parties of six or more. Major credit cards accepted. Patrons in wheelchairs enter via ramp in back of building. Daily specials. Twenty-six beers on tap. Many vegetarian items on menu. Free off-street parking available behind the restaurant on Sixth Street.

Address: 601 Amity St., Homestead

Details: 412-461-6220 or website

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