Fashion by faith: Women choose attire to express religious beliefs

The fabrics are more than pieces of material to these women.

They are a sign of who they are, of a commitment to their religious beliefs.

They dress according to their faith. Their fashion is as much a part of their daily life as prayer.

"The clothing of women who dress according to their faith is fraught with symbolism," says Yasemin Celik Levine, chairwoman and social sciences department associate professor, political science at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York.

"It is much more than material items because they are making a statement," Celik Levine says. "Sometimes, this statement is intentional — Orthodox Jewish women, for example, alter the way they dress after they are married. Sometimes, the statement is less so — a burqa, for example, shows a woman's Afghani heritage."

Although in the West, we champion diversity in individualism, she says, we are quick to judge a woman who wears a hijab — a head covering.

The most common thread that connects these women of disparate faith is modesty, Celik Levine says. They realize others question their clothing and often stare at them in the grocery store or at the bus stop. But just because their fashion is more tied to modesty doesn't mean they are hindered by it.

Here are their stories:

Orthodox Jew

Amy Cohn and Hadassa Kamensky, both of Squirrel Hill, are Orthodox Jews. They adhere to strict boundaries when it comes to attire.

Tops must cover elbows and collarbone. Skirts should cover the knees, even when sitting. Legs are covered with stockings year-round. Wigs or scarves disguise their real hair.

They don't usually wear red because it draws attention. You won't see them in pants, which is considered menswear. As for shoes, they have flexibility -- within reason.

"Being an Orthodox Jewish woman doesn't mean you have to look frumpy," says Cohn, 41, mother of five girls who owns a boutique called Ensembles in Squirrel Hill. "We want to look nice and fashionable while still adhering to our standards. We have restrictions and boundaries, and every woman can still express her individuality while staying within the boundaries."

How far they go with fashion is based on their interpretation of the Jewish law.

For exercise, Cohn wears leggings like most women would, although she pairs them with a stretchy A-line skirt to give her room to move, while keeping her knees covered.

Orthodox Jews shop at the same stores and boutiques as other women, but their purchases must be within the framework of the law.

"Modesty is not just what you wear," Kamensky says. "It is how you hold yourself. Even what comes out of your mouth is modesty."

They cover their heads because men are attracted to hair. Some women have their own hair made into a wig.

"It doesn't feel strict," says Kamensky, 55, the mother of 11. "It feels like structure. This is my lifestyle. And I like structure."

Muslim

It all starts with the scarf or "hijab," which means "curtain" or "cover" in Arabic. Pretty much all you see is a face, hands and feet if they're wearing sandals.

But that hasn't stopped Muslim women from finding ways to express their style.

At a recent fashion show -- for women only -- at the Islamic Center in Oakland, models showed ways to adhere to the law in a chic way for work and social situations.

"We can be very fashionable," says Alia Hallab, 29, one of the organizers of the fashion show who teaches at Duquesne University.

Hallab of Shadyside shops at stores such as Forever 21, Express, Macy's and Francesca's Collections. She also wears mini skirts. She just chooses to put them on over pants. And just like most women, she loves shoes.

"I wear wedges, and I have UGGS -- well not real UGGS," Hallab says. "We are trying to co-exist. People know I am Muslim when they see me. We, as Muslims, do believe that it is a commandment that we wear the hijab, yet, it is a personal decision that a woman makes depending on the growth of her spiritual relationship with Allah."

A Muslim woman dresses so she is attractive only to her husband. Covering up helps protect the woman who doesn't want to draw attention, says Senada Avdagic of Morningside.

"In the end, we are still a woman," she says.

While the rules are strict, each finds a way to have an individual look.

"We get used to it," says Nahed Abdelgawad, 39, of Fox Chapel who helped plan the conference where the fashion show was held. "It is for our faith and religion. It is part of our life. We are here to praise God. None of us is perfect."

Women are required to wear the hijab when they reach puberty. Some choose not to wear it, but that is their choice, not the Islamic rule. Fatima Butt, 18, of Mt. Lebanon, who attends Oakland Catholic High School, doesn't wear the scarf to school or out with her friends.

"We can still dress for our personality," says Sarahjameela Martin, a retired school teacher from Pittsburgh who wore colorful prints and patterned hijabs during her teaching career in Pittsburgh Public Schools.

The Amish

Amish women's clothing represents their religious separation from the world, says Donald B. Kraybill, senior fellow at the Young Center for Anabaptist Groups at Elizabethtown College in Lancaster County.

It goes along with their broader cultural lifestyle in terms of not using technology. Their dress comes, in part, from the Bible, which speaks of modesty and avoiding adornments. Most won't even wear a watch.

"The Amish are also part of a communitarian group where they follow the regulations of the church for the rest of their lives," Kraybill says. "They believe it is God, church, family and individually, in that order. The thinking is, if you would express yourself individually, it would be hard for the communitarian group to exist, because it would be hard to maintain harmony."

The main element of dress for most Amish women consists of a long, solid-colored dress, usually pleated. An apron extending from the waist may match the dress or be a different color. A cape, worn over the shoulders, descends from a triangular kerchief with the two points meeting in the front and the other point at the back of the waist. Black stockings and black shoes are normally worn when away from home. Around home, many Amish women prefer to go barefoot.

All Amish women wear cap-like head coverings with tie-strings. This is a literal interpretation of 1 Corinthians, that women should cover their heads.

"We have a conservative way of living, and I have lived this way my whole life," says Anna Stoltzfus, 54, of Lancaster County, who owns a craft store called Flower Patch.

Amish women find ways to add a personal touch, she says, such as when they make their dresses by creating different sleeves or cuffs or pleating the dress another way.

Stoltzfus says she can ride a bike or a horse in a dress -- she just wears sweatpants underneath.

"I don't have to worry about which earrings to wear with which dress," Stoltzfus says. "Sundays, I do take more time getting dressed. But, as a rule, we don't spend a lot of time on getting dressed. It is not very stressful to me because I don't have to make a lot of fashion decisions."

Nuns

For nearly four decades, Sister Ann Rosalia Devlin, of the Congregation of Sisters, Servants of the Immaculate Heart of Mary, has devoted her life to God. And the minute you see her, you know she is a religious sister.

Sister Ann Rosalia has chosen to wear an identifiable form of religious attire: a veil with a white cap and modest clothing such as a suit in navy or gray. She says she feels comfortable in clothing that is understated, yet functional, but still represents her vocation. Inscribed with the Latin "Ego Te Sponsabo" ("I will espouse you"), the gold band on her left hand signifies her commitment to God.

Some orders of sisters gradually discontinued wearing the traditional religious habit in the late 1960s when Vatican Council II gave them the option to modify their habits. But there's a reason Sister Ann Rosalia doesn't dress like a lay person.

"Some form of identifiable religious attire is a sign of Christ's presence in the world, and the world needs signs of God's presence," she says. "For me, it's a sign for the good of the people of God and for those who don't know Him. It gives public witness to commitment and service."

Hindu

Structure in Indian culture is a little different in the United States says Prasanthi Potluri, 33, of Moon.

She doesn't wear a sari -- the strip of unstitched cloth that is draped over the body -- all the time. It is saved for when she attends temple and for celebrations with family and friends. If she lived, in India she might wear the sari more often. She has lived here with her husband, Prasad, since 1996.

"In the U.S., it's a little different," Prasanthi Potluri says. "It is kind of a generation change. How we dress (here) is more Westernized."

The saris she owns are made of gorgeous fabrics, in breathtaking colors and remarkable designs. One was crafted from chiffon and silk and embellished with beading and jewels. Her accessories include bangle bracelets, rings, earrings and a bindi, a forehead decoration that coordinates with her garment. Lots of sparkle is a good thing, she says. Open-toe sandals complement the look.

"It gives us pride when we wear the sari," Prasanthi Potluri says. "It gives us a dignified look. It's cultural. I feel special when I do wear it. I think it looks elegant."

For her, dress is not so much religious as cultural. She purchases most of her clothing in India, although there are a few stores here and in cities such as New York and Chicago.

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