ATLANTIC CITY, N.J. (AP) -- After a two-day stay at the glitzy Borgata Hotel Casino and Spa here, I hit a jackpot -- of sorts. Rather than at the gaming tables, this was out in the fields 30 miles southwest of the casino, in Buena. As brothers Ralph and John Formisano were showing me the vegetables and herbs they custom-grow for the Borgata chefs, I casually mentioned that I love fennel. Little did I know the Formisanos are known to many as the "fennel kings." In one of his books, the late New York Times food critic Craig Claiborne named Formisano Farms the finest producer of that vegetable anywhere. John pointed out the fields where the feathery green and white fennel is grown. Ralph added some tips for fennel purchasers: Fennel heads should be firm, roundish, and white rather than green (a sign it was harvested when immature and will be tough). The fresh green foliage should be attached and it shouldn't appear dry in any way. Then John led me into the farm's office where articles about their prize-winning fennel hung on the walls and lay scattered under piles of orders. It seems the Formisanos have been successfully growing the vegetable ever since grandpa Giovanni, just a few years off the boat from Italy, began farming in 1908. Today, a fourth generation, led by John Jr., supplies fennel and many other vegetables, herbs, fruits and flowers to major wholesalers and restaurants around the nation. The Formisanos' arrangement with the Borgata gives the casino chefs access to ultra-fresh produce and specially grown varieties they might otherwise never find -- including candy-striped beets, Sicilian oregano, and lovage grown for Luke Palladino, the chef of Specchia and Ombra, the casino's two Italian venues. When I asked if he cooks fish and shellfish with fresh fennel, a traditional Mediterranean pairing, Palladino said "absolutely." An example is his red snapper in "crazy water." This dish also includes Calabrese chilies, a mildly hot pepper he favors for its depth of flavor, and grape tomatoes grown by the Formisanos. Fennel is used less frequently in meat and poultry dishes. However, when it is chopped and braised in a heady rabbit (or chicken) stew with peppers, onions, olives and a touch of anise-style liqueur, the double hit of subtle licorice flavors infuses the dish with the sunny taste of southern France. The wispy fennel fronds make an ideal garnish. Fennel simply loves citrus flavors, and is good in salads. Think about ribbons of white fennel with slivers of Parmigiano-Reggiano and blood-orange slices, on a bed of arugula, drizzled with fruity extra-virgin olive oil. My new-fashioned Waldorf salad includes cubes of the vegetable rather than celery, tossed with a lime-honey mustard dressing. Edwyn Ferrari, the chef of Mixx, the Borgata's Latin-Asian fusion eating spot and nightclub, told me his fennel tempura, served when the vegetable is available from the farm, is enormously popular. Customers seemingly can't get enough of the crispy appetizer sprinkled with lime juice and sea salt. On a sweeter note, I've noticed bits of fennel in some rustic breads, especially those made with cornmeal, and other baked goods. When Thaddeus DuBois, until recently Borgata's executive pastry chef, mentioned a fennel and creme fraiche gelato, I was intrigued. The slightly tangy, sweetened cream infused with a subtle anise flavor turns out to be a delicious frozen dessert that is far more conventional-tasting than it sounds. DuBois even suggested topping each scoop with a few tiny cubes of raw fennel. (DuBois has now been appointed White House pastry chef.) Fennel presents some issues, admittedly. The truth seems to be that people who grew up eating fennel usually stay with it forever -- they like it so well they accept it in a wide range of combinations and confections. However, many cooks find it a mystery. Even its name causes confusion since produce departments often label the bulbous plant as "anise" for its mild licorice flavor. True anise, Pimpinella anisum, is a plant grown for its seeds. Although fennel is commonly called a bulb, Ralph Formisano said this is also a misnomer because it grows above ground. In our conversations, he referred to heads of fennel. The situation is even more complicated because there are different varieties of the edible plant Foeniculum vulgare, or fennel, that originated in the Mediterranean. The kind we eat is Florentine fennel. It has graceful, elongated stalks, feathery fronds, and an enlarged white base where the stalks come together. Sweet fennel, another variety, has golden-yellow flowers with large, flat umbrella-like clusters that produce what are thought of as seeds but are really the dried aromatic fruit. Along with other members of this large family of plants, fennel seeds are used as a spice in savory dishes such as Italian sausages and fish soups, and for sweets and liqueurs. The seeds have long been praised for their medicinal qualities, as well. In ancient Rome, Pliny ascribed more than 22 uses as a remedy to fennel seeds, including as a digestive, an aid in weight loss, and made into a tea to soothe eyes. While interchangeable in some recipes, fennel and anise seeds are not the same. Ann Wilder, president of Vanns Spices in Baltimore, says fennel seeds have "a subtle licorice, grassy aroma." (The Latin name of the genus means "little hay.") She describes the flavor as "distinctly sweet with licorice and menthol notes." Fennel seeds are a component of Chinese five-spice powder and are sometimes used in the southern French seasoning blend herbes de Provence. "They are a wonderful palate cleanser," Wilder says, and are classically served at the end of Indian meals. The essential oil is also used in condiments. "In selecting fennel seeds, greener ones are superior," she points out. In contrast, "brownish anise seeds have a strong licorice aroma." The thin-stemmed plant is a relative of fennel that puts out white flowers. "For its small size it packs a wallop of licorice flavors that is often used to balance out rich ingredients and minimize some of the greasy tendencies in North African dishes."

Pesce all'Aqua Pazza (Fish in 'Crazy Water') One 4-pound red snapper or bass, cleaned, scaled, rinsed, and blotted with paper towels Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 head fennel, trimmed and thinly sliced 1 bunch scallions, trimmed 2 garlic cloves, sliced 4 sprigs flat-leaf parsley 1 sprig marjoram 1 teaspoon chopped Calabrese chilies or red pepper flakes 1/2 cup white wine 1/2 pint grape tomatoes 4 slices ciabatta or crusty Italian bread, rubbed with garlic and oil, toasted Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Season fish inside and out with salt and pepper and brush with a little olive oil. Wrap the tail in aluminum foil. Lay the fish in a roasting pan large enough to hold it flat. Add the fennel, scallions, garlic, parsley, marjoram, chilies and remaining olive oil. Roast for 10 minutes, then add the white wine and grape tomatoes. Return to the oven for 15 minutes, then remove and let the fish rest. Place whole fish onto a warm serving platter. To remove the filets, run a fish or butter knife down the spine from head to tail and lift the meat from the top filet from the bones. Flip the filet over and remove the pin bones with the tip of the knife. Lift the skeleton from the bottom filet (it will come away in one whole piece) and remove the bones. Transfer to 4 heated plates, spoon sauce over the filets, add a slice of bread, and serve. Makes 4 servings. Source: Chef Luke Palladino, of Specchia and Ombra at the Borgata, Atlantic City, N.J.

Pot de Provence, a richly perfumed stew, combines the bright colors and flavors of Provence, the sun-drenched region of southern France. Rabbit (or chicken), sweet peppers, fennel, tomatoes and black olives gently marry in an aromatic anise-flavored broth. Serve over orange-scented couscous. Pot de Provence 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus a little extra 1 young rabbit or chicken, dressed, cut in 6 to 8 pieces, blotted dry Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper, to taste 1 large head fennel, trimmed and cut into strips (reserve fronds) 1 large onion, sliced 1/2 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into strips 1/2 orange bell pepper, seeded and cut into strips 1/2 yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut into strips 1/2 green bell pepper, seeded and cut into strips (or use 1 red and 1 green pepper instead of 4 half-peppers) 2 tablespoons chopped garlic 1/2-inch-by-4-inch piece orange zest 1 cup chicken stock 1/4 cup Pernod, Ricard, or other anise-flavored liqueur 14 1/2-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained 1/2 cup imported black olives, pitted 2 tablespoons reserved minced fennel fronds, plus extra fennel fronds for garnish Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Heat oil in a large heavy casserole over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the rabbit and brown on both sides, about 4 minutes per side. Don't crowd. If necessary saute the pieces in batches. Remove to a platter and season with salt and pepper. Add fennel, onion and peppers to casserole along with a little more oil, if needed. Saute until the onion is lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often. Add garlic, cook for 30 seconds, then stir in orange zest, stock, Pernod and tomatoes. Bring to a boil. Return rabbit to casserole, cover with a tight-fitted lid, and transfer to oven. Cook until rabbit is almost tender, about 50 minutes. Stir in olives and chopped fennel fronds; season with salt and pepper, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes longer. Serve rabbit on a mound of couscous, garnished with small fennel fronds. Makes 4 servings. Source: Joanna Pruess

Chef Edwyn Ferrari of Mixx restaurant serves this crunchy nibble, drizzled with lime juice, when fresh fennel is available. Fennel Tempura 3 fennel heads 1 egg yolk Grated zest of 1 lime 2 cups ice water 2 cups tempura flour (see note), plus extra to dust on the fennel Neutral vegetable oil, such as canola, for frying Scant 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil Sea salt Lime juice Trim the stalks from the fennel. Remove and discard the tough outer leaves. Cut each head in half lengthwise, then wash and pat dry. Cut each half lengthwise into quarters, leaving the leaves attached to the base. In a large bowl combine egg yolk, lime zest and ice water. Slowly stir in 2 cups of tempura flour until batter is smooth but still a little lumpy. Don't completely incorporate the flour because this will make the batter tough. Fill a heavy-bottomed pot two-thirds full with the oil. Add the sesame oil and heat until a little drop of batter dropped in the pot quickly rises to the surface. When the oil is ready, lightly dust the fennel with the remaining flour and dip into batter. Fry about 3 to 5 pieces at a time, turning once for even cooking, until lightly browned. Remove with a slotted spoon and let rest on a cooling rack for a few seconds to drain any excess oil. Season with sea salt and a few drops of lime juice, and serve. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Note: Tempura flour usually contains cornstarch, baking powder and soft wheat flour. Look for it at Asian grocery stores. Try to find one that does not contain egg. Source: Chef Edwyn Ferrari of Mixx, at the Borgata, Atlantic City, N.J.

The Waldorf salad of my youth was a blend of peeled, somewhat mushy Rome apples, celery, dark raisins and walnuts, liberally dressed with mayonnaise. In this updated version, crisp, unpeeled apples and fennel brighten that old-fashioned mixture and add a satisfying crunch. New Fashioned Waldorf Salad 1 1/2 tablespoons lime juice 1 tablespoon honey mustard 1/2 tablespoon soy sauce 6 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill, optional 1 crisp red apple, such as Gala, washed, cored and diced 1 cup green grapes, washed and split 1 cup diced fennel 1/2 cup walnut pieces, lightly toasted 1/4 cup golden raisins Freshly ground black pepper to taste Decorative lettuce leaves, optional In a medium bowl, whisk together the lime juice, mustard and soy sauce. Pour in the oil in a slow stream, whisking until emulsified. Stir in the mayonnaise. Add the apple, grapes, fennel, walnut pieces and raisins, and toss. Season with black pepper, toss again, and serve at room temperature or chilled on plates lined with lettuce leaves, if desired. Makes 4 servings. Source: Joanna Pruess.

This luscious, creamy gelato actually has half the fat of traditional American ice cream -- which always fools people because the texture is so smooth. Thaddeus DuBois' Roasted Fennel and Creme Fraiche Gelato 1/2 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 1/2 cups finely diced fennel 2 cups milk 1/4 cup light corn syrup 1/4 cup egg yolks (3 to 4) 1/4 cup sugar 2 cups creme fraiche Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly brush a sheet pan with oil. Roast the fennel in a single layer until tender, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes. Combine the fennel and milk in a saucepan, bring to a boil, then turn off the heat and steep for 30 minutes. Strain and discard the fennel. Return the milk to the saucepan, stir in the corn syrup, and return to a boil. Meanwhile, beat the egg yolks and sugar together in a small bowl until pale yellow. Whisk about 1/2 cup of the hot milk into the mixture, add another 1/2 cup of milk, then beat the egg yolks into the saucepan of milk. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture coats the back of a spoon and reaches 180 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Remove from the heat, strain into a metal bowl, and whisk in the creme fraiche. Set the bowl into an ice bath and chill to 40 degrees. Cover and refrigerate overnight to marry flavors. The next day, freeze in an ice-cream maker according to manufacturers' directions. Makes 4 to 5 servings. Source: White House pastry chef Thaddeus DuBois.

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