Food from the Black Forest

Many people draw a blank when asked what they know about the Black Forest region of Germany, says Chef Walter Staib.

Well, there's that chocolate cake made with cherry pie filling and cherry brandy, and a ham that's one of the most expensive to buy in the delicatessen -- if you can find it. Oh, and isn't that the place where everybody revels with huge mugs of beer during Oktoberfest?

"That's usually the end of it," says Staib, proprietor of City Tavern Restaurant in Philadelphia and author of "Black Forest Cuisine: The Classic Blending of European Flavors" (Running Press, $35). "A lot of people confuse us with Bavaria (southeastern Germany) -- Munich has made a big splash and people come back there. And people think that hot potato salad is the only way it is."

The Black Forest is much lesser known, says Staib, who was born in Pforzheim, in the center of the region. The Black Forest borders France and Switzerland and makes up much of the southwestern leg of Germany. The region is a melting pot of flavors and cuisines, from traditional German to French to Hungarian.

In the late 1600s, the region was infused with Protestant French Huguenots from Burgundy fleeing from religious persecution by King Louis XIV. They brought their customs and cooking with them, forever changing the pots and ovens of Black Forest natives.

Staib, 61, wrote "Black Forest Cuisine" with Jennifer Lindner McGlinn, "to give back a little bit to where I came from, and to let people know (the story) for once and for all," he says in a telephone interview from his restaurant.

A third-generation member of a restaurant family, he started peeling garlic at his aunt and uncle's establishment, Gasthaus zum Buckenberg, at the age of 4. He apprenticed at the renowned Hotel Post in Nagold and moved on to restaurants in Switzerland, Italy and France, including The Chessery, owned by Aga Khan IV, Prince Karim al-Hussayni.

His career has taken him around the world, particularly through ownership since 1989 of Concepts by Staib Inc., a hospitality consulting firm specializing in restaurant concept development. The chef -- recently tapped to receive the Order of Merit of the Federal Republic of Germany, the highest tribute that country can pay to individuals for services to the nation -- has worked in Philadelphia for 13 years. He is the commonwealth's culinary ambassador for Philadelphia.

"Black Forest Cuisine" is Staib's third book. The other two focus on 18th-century American recipes from City Tavern.

"I have all the menus from that era," says Staib, and he includes German-influenced dishes on his menu. There's a first course of Black Forest Ham & Asparagus with cornichons and pumpernickel bread, as well as rabbit and trout dishes at City Tavern.

Anchor seasonings of classic Black Forest cooking are nutmeg -- grated fresh, not the ground stuff from a jar -- marjoram and sweet Hungarian paprika.

"You don't want to get heat from the paprika," he says. "You want it from cayenne or pepper flakes.

"And we do a lot of mustard."

Familiar German cooking is reflected in some of the cookbook's dishes -- strudel, cabbage soup, knockwurst with potato salad, Black Forest Cake -- but foreign influences abound. There is a French lentil salad flavored with garlic, herbs, mustard and bacon; a gratin of scallops (Coquilles St. Jacques, France); goulash (Hungary), Russian Beef Stroganov; and Risotto with Escargot (Italian, French).

"Follow the recipes to the letter first so you know what they are supposed to taste like," the chef says. He guarantees they will work -- he tested them "over and over" and employed novice cooks to try them. He also did all of his own food styling for the dazzling color photos.

Instead of offering recipes by courses, Staib breaks them down into home cooking, "cafe bites," gasthaus (guest house) comfort food, fashionable hotel dining, and a few holiday dishes. His mother, Harta, flew in from her home in Frankfurt to ensure that her recipes were authentic.

"She came here before the book was finished and reviewed every single dish," he says.

The chef just filmed three episodes of a television cooking series about Black Forest Cooking for American regional cable television -- "it broadcasts from Maine to Florida" -- that he hopes might be picked up by PBS, he says. Staib appears regularly on radio and television cooking shows, including guest visits on the Food Network, and offers cooking classes.

He continues to travel extensively, too -- St. Lucia is next.

"I can run circles around anyone who is 35," he says, laughing. "I have good management and kitchen teams at City Tavern. When I'm not traveling, I am here (at the restaurant).

"This is my home."

Autographed copies of "Black Forest Cuisine" are available by order through www.blackforestcuisine.com .

This recipe is from "Black Forest Cuisine: The Classic Blending of European Flavors" by Walter Staib with Jennifer Lindner McGlinn (Running Press, $35).

For the veal shank:

• 1 veal shank, about 5 pounds, bone in, rinsed with cold water and patted dry
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 1/8 teaspoon Hungarian (sweet) paprika
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

For the vegetables:

• Salt, to taste
• Water
• 1 1/2 cups chopped carrots
• 1 1/2 cups chopped celery root
• 1 cup button mushrooms, quartered
• 4 ounces fresh green beans
• 1/2 head cauliflower, cut into florets
• 4 ounces sugar snap peas
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Fresh parsley sprigs, for garnish

Heat the oven to 475 degrees.

To make the veal, season the shank with salt, pepper and paprika, drizzle with oil and place in a small roasting pan or large casserole. Roast until golden brown, for about 30 minutes. Cover with foil, reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees and roast for an additional 1 1/2 hours.

The veal is properly cooked when the meat has shrunk, 5-6 inches of the bones are exposed and the tendons have transformed into gelatin. Remove the roast from the pan, cover it with foil and set it aside to rest and keep warm. Reserve the pan with juices.

To make the vegetables, bring a medium-size saucepan of salted water to a boil. Drop in the carrots and blanch until bright in color and slightly softened, for 3-4 minutes. Lift out the carrots, using a wire mesh strainer, and set on paper towels to drain as the next batch is blanched. Repeat, one type at a time, with the remaining vegetables.

Melt the butter in the reserved roasting pan over medium heat. Toss in the vegetables, season with salt and pepper and saute lightly until browned and tender, but not too soft. To serve, set the veal shank on a large platter, arrange the vegetables over and around it and garnish with parsley.

Makes 4-6 servings.

This recipe can be halved.

• 1 cup vegetable oil or 1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter
• 1 cup coarsely chopped garlic
• 6 pounds white onions, peeled and coarsely chopped
• 4 pounds pork (preferably boneless pork shoulder), cut into 2- to 2 1/2-inch cubes
• Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• 3 cups water, divided, more if needed
• 1 1/2 cups tomato paste
• 3/4 cup Hungarian (sweet) paprika
• 4 pounds prepared sauerkraut (bagged or canned)
• 2 cups dry white wine, such as sauvignon blanc
• 2 teaspoons crushed red pepper, or to taste
• 1 cup sour cream

Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Heat the oil or melt the butter in a large shallow casserole or ovenproof saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and saute until golden brown, for about 2 minutes. Toss in the onions and saute just until translucent, for about 2 minutes more.

Season the pork with salt and pepper, place in the casserole and cook over high heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until any liquid it releases has evaporated. Stir in 2 cups water to deglaze, stirring with a wooden spoon to loosen any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Simmer until the pan is nearly dry.

Stir in the tomato paste, 1 cup water and the paprika. Add the sauerkraut, stirring to pull the strands apart, and incorporate it into the other ingredients. Pour in the wine -- and additional water if the casserole is too thick -- and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover and place in the oven to cook for 45 minutes, or until the pork is tender.

Remove from the oven and season with crushed red pepper and additional salt and pepper if necessary. Fold in the sour cream.

Makes 12-14 servings.

• 1 1/2 pounds fresh brussels sprouts, tough outer leaves removed and stem end trimmed
• Salt
• Water
• 2 slices lean bacon, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon olive oil
• 1 medium-size yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
• 3/4 cup chicken stock
• 1 teaspoon fennel seeds, lightly crusted in a mortar and pestle or with the bottom of a heavy pan
• Freshly ground black pepper

Using a paring knife, cut a small 1/8-inch-deep cross in the stem end of each brussels sprout. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the brussels sprouts and cook until tender, for 6-8 minutes.

Drain the brussels sprouts in a colander and set aside in a bowl of cold water to quickly stop the cooking, for about 5 minutes. Drain again and set aside momentarily.

Heat a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until crisp, for about 5 minutes. Remove the bacon and set aside to drain on paper towels.

Remove most of the bacon fat from the pan, wiping out the pan with paper towels if you wish. Add the olive oil and heat over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until softened and very lightly browned, for about 5 minutes. Add the stock, fennel seeds, brussels sprouts and bacon and simmer, stirring frequently, until the liquid is reduced, for about 3 minutes. To serve, season with salt and pepper and pour onto a large serving platter.

Makes 6 servings.

For the salad:

• 4 cups uncooked French lentils
• Water
• 2 carrots, peeled and cut into strips about 2 inches long and 1/8-inch wide
• 1 medium-size yellow onion, peeled and chopped
• 2 large cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
• 1 dried bay leaf
• 3 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 teaspoon salt, more if needed
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, more if needed
• 9 slices lean bacon, chopped

For the dressing:

• 1 bunch fresh chives, chopped
• 1 red onion, peeled and finely chopped
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
• 2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard
• 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 bunch fresh parsley sprigs, for garnish

To make the salad: at least 4 hours before serving, put the lentils in a large bowl, pour water over the top to cover by about 1 inch and set aside to soak. Drain the lentils, place them in a large saucepan and add the carrots, onion, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, 1 teaspoon salt and { 1/2} teaspoon pepper. Pour in enough water to cover by 1 inch and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the lentils are just tender, checking frequently to prevent overcooking, for about 10 minutes.

Drain the lentils in a colander, discarding the cooking liquid, bay leaf and thyme. Pour the lentils and vegetables into a bowl and chill in the refrigerator for about 1 hour.

Heat a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the bacon and saute until crisp, for about 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels.

To make the dressing, whisk together the chives, onion, oil, vinegar, mustard, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper in a large bowl. To assemble the salad, gently toss the cooled lentils and dressing and set aside at room temperature for about 30 minutes to allow the flavors to mingle. To serve, season with additional salt and pepper, if necessary, and pour into a large serving bowl. Garnish with parsley.

Makes 8 servings.

For the crust:

• 1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour, sifted, plus more for rolling dough
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled and cubed
• 4 tablespoons vegetable shortening, chilled
• 4 to 5 tablespoons ice water
• Vegetable cooking spray

For the filling:

• 6 extra-large eggs
• 2 1/2 cups heavy cream
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh chives
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup grated Gruyère cheese
• 1 cup finely chopped Black Forest ham

To make the crust: Stir together 11/3 cups flour and 1 teaspoon salt in a medium bowl. Using a pastry cutter or 2 knives, cut in the butter and shortening until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Sprinkle the ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, over the flour and toss together with a fork until the dough starts to come together. It will be a little sticky or tacky. Form the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes.

Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Coat a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom with vegetable spray.

On a lightly floured surface, roll the chilled dough into a circle about 10 inches in diameter and about 1/4-inch thick. Beginning at one edge of the dough, roll the dough around the rolling pin and unroll it carefully over the tart pan. Ease the dough into the pan, gently pressing it into and against the sides, being careful not to stretch it. Remove any excess dough from the rim of the tart pan.

Carefully line the dough with heavy-duty aluminum foil, fill with dried beans or pie weight and bake for about 15 minutes, or until very light golden. Remove the crust from the oven, carefully lift out the foil and the weights and set aside on a rack to cool.

To make the filling: Reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees. Whisk together the eggs, heavy cream, nutmeg, chives, salt and pepper in a medium-size bowl. To assemble the quiche, spread the Gruyere cheese and ham evenly over the bottom of the cooled crust and pour the egg filling on top. Bake for 25-30 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove from the oven, place on a rack to set for about 5 minutes, then serve.

Makes 1 9-inch quiche.

For the rice pudding:

• Butter, for greasing casserole
• Water
• 1/4 cup uncooked long-grain white rice
• 2 1/2 cups whole milk
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 3 large eggs
• 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

For the meringue:

• 4 large egg whites
• 1 tablespoon cream of tartar
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1 cup confectioners' sugar, sifted

Heat the oven to 325 degrees and butter a 1 1/2-quart casserole.

To make the rice pudding: Bring 2 cups water to a boil in a medium-size saucepan over high heat and stir in the rice. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pan and simmer until the liquid is reduced by about two-thirds and the rice is cooked to al dente, for about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for about 5 minutes.

In another medium-size saucepan, bring the milk to a boil over high heat. Stir in the rice and any residual cooking water, reduce the heat to medium and simmer until the rice is fully cooked, for about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the granulated sugar, eggs, melted butter, vanilla and cinnamon.

Gradually stir the cooked rice into the egg mixture and pour the pudding into the casserole, then place the casserole in a large roasting pan or larger casserole. Make a water bath by pouring boiling water into the larger pan so that it comes about halfway up the sides of the pudding. Cover the pudding with foil and carefully transfer the pans to the oven, baking for 20-30 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean.

To make the meringue: Combine the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whip on high speed to form soft peaks. Reduce the mixing speed to medium, gradually add 3/4 cup granulated sugar and whip to form stiff peaks. Remove the meringue from the mixer and, using a spatula, gradually fold in the confectioners' sugar.

Carefully lift the finished rice pudding out of the water bath and remove the foil. Spread the meringue evenly over the top of the pudding, return the casserole to the oven -- without the water bath -- and bake until the meringue is golden brown, for 15-25 minutes. Serve the pudding warm, at room temperature or chilled.

Makes 6 servings.

It's right there on the Internet: To make a Black Forest Cake, take 1 package of chocolate cake mix, a can of cherry pie filling, cherry brandy, maraschino cherries...

Ouch! Chef Walter Staib, born and reared in the Black Forest region of Germany, winces at the thought. One of the reasons he wrote his latest cookbook, "Black Forest Cuisine," with Jennifer Lindner McGlinn, was to clear up misunderstandings about Black Forest Cake, a confection known worldwide that showcases some of the most delicious and abundant ingredients of his homeland.

"Virtually 80 percent of the region's cafe sales come from Black Forest Cake alone," writes Staib; however, he adds that he fears its ubiquitousness has dampened interest in it.

In a telephone interview from his restaurant, City Tavern Restaurant, in Philadelphia, he dashed some misconceptions. "It's not too sweet, using very little sugar. Most people use cherry brandy to make it, but that's supposed to be Kirschwasser, which is not the same as cherry brandy."

Kirschwasser is clear cherry-flavored liquor made from the distillation of cherries.

Premium dark chocolate is used in the batter. The region's cream is uniquely flavored, because cows feed on a variety of grasses and wildflowers, he writes. Sour cherries picked in the wild usually are among the ingredients; because they are hard to find in the United States, the chef recommends that home bakers use sweet cherries instead.

This recipe is from "Black Forest Cuisine: The Classic Blending of European Flavors" by Walter Staib with Jennifer Lindner McGlinn. Cherry brandy or schnapps can substitute for the Kirschwasser, if necessary.

For the cherry filling:

• 4 cups pitted sweet cherries
• 1 1/2 cups Kirschwasser
• 1 cinnamon stick
• 1 vanilla bean
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 1 tablespoon cold water

For the chocolate sponge cake:

• Butter, for greasing cake pans
• All-purpose flour, for flouring cake pans
• 3/4 cup cake flour
• 4 tablespoons cornstarch
• 4 tablespoons cocoa powder
• 8 large eggs
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
• Grated zest of 1 lemon
• Water, for double boiler
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

For the cherry cream:

• 1/4 cup Kirschwasser
• 1 quart heavy cream, divided
• 1 packet (1/4 ounce) powdered gelatin
• 1/2 cup confectioners' sugar

For assembly:

• About 3/4 cup Kirschwasser
• 1 cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks with 2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
• Semisweet chocolate curls, as needed, for garnish
• Additional sweet cherries, for garnish

To make the cherry filling: Begin at least 1 day before assembling and serving the cake. Stir together 4 cups cherries and 1 1/2 cups Kirschwasser in a medium bowl. Add the cinnamon stick and vanilla bean, cover and set aside at room temperature or in the refrigerator to macerate for 24 hours.

The next day, strain the macerating liquid into a small saucepan. Reserve the cherries. Bring the liquid to a boil over medium heat, reduce the heat to medium-low and maintain at a simmer. Stir together 1 tablespoon cornstarch and the cold water in a small bowl and drizzle into the simmering liquid, stirring constantly until thickened. Remove the cherry filling from the heat and set aside to cool.

To make the cake: Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Butter and flour two 8-inch cake pans.

Sift together the cake flour, 4 tablespoons cornstarch and the cocoa powder 3 times into a large bowl. Set aside momentarily.

Whisk together the eggs, granulated sugar, vanilla extract and lemon zest in a large bowl until just combined. Prepare a double boiler and maintain the water at a simmer. Pour the egg mixture into the top of the double boiler and heat to 200 degrees, or until warm to the touch, whisking constantly.

Transfer the egg mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whip on medium-high speed until light yellow in color and tripled in volume. Using a spatula, gently and gradually fold the sifted flour into the whipped eggs. When nearly all of the flour has been incorporated into the eggs, fold in the melted butter, adding it in a slow, steady stream. Do not overmix the batter, or the cakes will be too firm and dense. Divide the cake batter between the 2 prepared pans and bake for 30-35 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the centers comes out clean.

To make the cherry cream: Pour 1/4 cup Kirschwasser and 1/4 cup cream into a small bowl. Sprinkle the gelatin over the top and set aside until the gelatin is soaked, for about 3 minutes. The bloomed gelatin will solidify. Melt the bloomed gelatin by setting the bowl in a larger bowl of warm water no warmer than 86 degrees, and stirring until the gelatin is melted and dissolved.

Pour the remaining 3 3/4 cups cream into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and begin whipping on medium speed. Gradually incorporate the confectioners' sugar and continue whipping to form soft peaks. Add the gelatin, raise the mixing speed to high, and continue whipping to stiff peaks. Watch carefully, because overwhipping will turn the cream to butter very quickly.

To assemble the cake, slice each cake round horizontally into thirds. Set one of the rounds on a cake plate, drizzle with some of the 3/4 cup Kirschwasser and spread a thin layer of cherry cream over the surface. Spread a heaping tablespoon of thickened cherry filling over the cream, spreading it thinly, and arrange some macerated cherries on top.

Continue assembling the cake in this manner, leaving the top layer plain. Frost the cake with whipped cream, being especially generous on the top. Carefully press chocolate curls into the sides of the cake. Fit a pastry bag with a star tip, if desired, fill with some of the whipped cream and pipe rosettes around the edges of the cake. Decorate with cherries and chocolate shavings. Refrigerate for 1-2 hours before serving.

Makes a 9-inch round cake.