Fruit finish: End-of-summer desserts rely on perfectly ripened fruit

For end-of-summer desserts, keep your eyes on fresh fruit. Layer cakes and chocolate tortes can take a hike. When dining in the light of a balmy sunset, savoring the simplicity of perfectly ripened berries or stone fruit is a wonderful way to end the day.

Or, frankly, to begin the next one if you save some for breakfast.

Yet, even the most luscious fruit deserves some tender loving care -- with a capital "C." We're talking about crisps, cobblers, crumbles and clafoutis.

Mastering these simple concepts lets us mix and match a variety of fruits with toppings, from a billowy peach cobbler to a toothsome blueberry crisp.

These are homey, even humble, desserts, traditionally prepared with what a cook had on hand, or what family heritage had passed along. This lack of formality has led to a (mostly) happy difference of opinion as to what constitutes a crisp, a crumble and even some cobblers.

Some recipes with nuts are called crisps and crunches, while certain defenders of each camp deny that this ever would be tolerated.

The same goes for the presence or banishment of rolled oats. Some bakers treat the fruit like a buried treasure, enclosing it in toppings spread from edge to edge, while others contend that the fruit needs to peek through.

So much contentiousness. Where's the compromise?

The good news is that all of these desserts are delicious. It's fruit.

It's summer. You know the alternative.

The accompanying recipes pair certain toppings with a particular fruit, but feel free to change it up, putting dollops of the cornmeal-flecked cobbler dough on the blueberry filling, or pouring the brandy-spiked clafouti batter over the nectarines.

Serve with a scoop of ice cream and a sunset.

Peach-Raspberry Cobbler

Many peaches are less "fuzzy" these days, so peeling might not be necessary. This recipe is adapted from "The Lee Brothers Simple Fresh Southern" by Matt and Ted Lee.

• Butter or vegetable cooking spray to coat the baking dish
• 4 cups peaches, cut in 1-inch pieces
• 1 cup fresh raspberries
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 cup, plus 3 tablespoons, firmly packed brown sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 3/4 cup flour
• 1/4 cup fine cornmeal
• 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 3 tablespoons butter, cut in small pieces
• 1/2 cup buttermilk

Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Coat a 2-quart baking dish with butter or cooking spray, or divide among individual dishes.

In a bowl, gently mix together the peaches, raspberries, lemon juice, 1/2 cup brown sugar, ginger and salt. Set aside.

In another bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, 3 tablespoons brown sugar, baking powder and salt. Mix the butter into the flour by pinching with your fingers until the mixture resembles coarse meal and the butter is evenly distributed. Add the buttermilk and stir until just mixed.

Top the fruit with dollops of the dough, letting the fruit show through.

Bake until the fruit is bubbling and the biscuits are golden, for 20 to 25 minutes.

Makes 6 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 230 calories, 7 grams fat (4 grams saturated), 16 milligrams cholesterol, 3 grams protein, 42 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams dietary fiber, 485 milligrams sodium

Plum Clafouti

This recipe is adapted from King Arthur Flour's "The Baking Companion."

• Butter for coating pan
• 3 cups sliced plums
• 1/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar
• 3/4 cup flour
• 1/3 cup granulated sugar
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 3 large eggs
• 1 1/4 cups milk
• 1 tablespoon brandy or other liqueur, if desired
• 1 teaspoon vanilla
• Confectioners' sugar for garnish

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the rack in the middle position. Thoroughly butter a 10-inch baking dish or individual dishes.

Arrange the plum slices in the baking dish, making sure some are skin side up, and sprinkle with brown sugar.

In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar and salt.

In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, milk, brandy and vanilla. Add the flour to the milk mixture, whisking vigorously until no lumps remain. Pour the batter over the fruit and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until puffed and golden. Sprinkle with confectioners' sugar and serve immediately.

Makes 6 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 250 calories, 4 grams fat (1 gram saturated), 10 milligrams cholesterol, 7 grams protein, 47 grams carbohydrates, 12 grams dietary fiber, 255 milligrams sodium

Blueberry Crumble

This recipe is adapted from the America's Test Kitchen's "Family Baking Book." Walnuts may be toasted in a microwave oven on high for 1 to 2 minutes. Watch carefully so they don't burn.

• Vegetable cooking spray
• 4 cups blueberries
• 1/3 cup plus 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, divided
• 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
• 1 teaspoon lime zest
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1 cup flour
• 1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar
• 1/2 cup chopped walnuts, lightly toasted
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons vanilla
• 6 tablespoons butter, cut in pieces and softened

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Place one rack in the bottom position, and another in the upper half of the oven. Coat an 8-inch-square dish with cooking spray.

Combine the blueberries, 1/3 cup sugar, lime juice, zest, cornstarch and cinnamon. Pour into the baking dish and cover with foil. Place on the upper oven rack.

Combine the flour, brown sugar, 1/4 cup granulated sugar, walnuts, salt and vanilla. Mix the butter into the flour by pinching with your fingers until the butter is evenly distributed and the mixture starts to hold together. Turn out onto a baking sheet covered with parchment paper and spread into an even layer. Place on the bottom rack of the oven and bake for 12 minutes.

Remove the fruit and crumble from the oven, and uncover the fruit. Crumble the partially baked topping over the fruit and sprinkle with the remaining sugar. Return to the lower rack of the oven and bake until the fruit is bubbling and the topping is golden, for another 15 to 20 minutes, checking after 10 minutes to make sure the topping isn't browning too fast.

Makes 6 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 414 calories, 18 grams fat (8 grams saturated), 31 milligrams cholesterol, 5 grams protein, 61 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams dietary fiber, 184 milligrams sodium

Nectarine Crisp

This recipe is adapted from www.marthastewart.com .

• Vegetable cooking spray
• 6 cups sliced nectarines
• 1/2 cup, plus 1/3 cup, firmly packed brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 1/2 teaspoon salt, divided
• 3/4 cup flour
• 1/2 cup old-fashioned rolled oats
• 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
• 6 tablespoons butter, divided

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Coat an 8-inch-square baking dish with cooking spray, or use individual dishes.

Mix together the nectarines, 1/2 cup brown sugar, cornstarch, lemon juice and 1/4 teaspoon salt.

Pour into the baking dish.

In a medium-size bowl, stir together the flour, oats, 1/3 cup brown sugar, baking powder, 1/4 teaspoon salt, cinnamon and nutmeg. Add 3 tablespoons of butter into the flour by pinching with your fingers until the butter is evenly distributed in small clumps. Sprinkle the topping evenly over the fruit. Melt the remaining butter and drizzle over the topping.

Bake for 30 minutes, until the fruit is bubbling and the topping is browned. Let cool slightly before serving.

Makes 8 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 250 calories, 9 grams fat (6 grams saturated), 23 milligrams cholesterol, 3 grams protein, 40 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams dietary fiber, 244 milligrams sodium