Breakfast. It's known for being the most important meal of the day. It's also known for being skipped. Except maybe on Sunday, and even then it has to share the spotlight with lunch.
But breakfast, actual breakfast, should be given more respect, because it is seriously delicious. So, anytime a new — or new to me — breakfast spot opens up, I like to investigate. My latest case study was a recently opened breakfast and lunch spot on Butler Street in Lawrenceville.
Evren Karabacak opened Geppetto Cafe in March. The eclectic eatery serves breakfast and lunch every day from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Considering Geppetto's main staple is breakfast, the hours seem odd, but don't fret: The doors open promptly at 9, if you can wait until then.
Inside is an interesting mix of design influences. Elements such as reclaimed wood walls and floors and a floating book installation add a rustic charm, while gear-and-sprocket light fixtures add a steampunk edge.
Inspiration for the book installation came from Karabacak's visit to the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art. There, he saw a similar installation and decided to replicate it in the cafe. Twine was tied around a variety of books, from “The Count of Monte Cristo” to “Carrie,” and then suspended from the ceiling above the tables. It's one of the more memorable restaurant decorations around, so don't forget to look up when you stop by.
The European-influenced breakfast menu features a variety of French toast, crepes and waffles. A few salads and side dishes are available.
Before directing your attention to the food, first look over the coffee and tea selections. La Prima in the Strip District supplies the beans, so the house coffee is always a great place to start. Serving the cup of Joe with real half-and-half instead of individual artificial creamers would be the only change I'd suggest. Other notable drink choices include the Turkish coffee, hot chocolate with Nutella and the cafe au lait.
Crepes are the heart and soul of the operation, so if you're looking for classic breakfast options, this is not the place. Crepes are prepared with sweet or savory fillings. Savory crepes — except the Bonjour — are served with a small side salad with creamy, homemade champagne vinaigrette.
I'm not much of a sweets fan in the morning, but if you are, go with the popular Geppetto Signature. It comes with caramelized apples, cream cheese glaze and caramel sauce. If you love Nutella, try the Nutella Classic. The crepe comes smeared with a hearty dose of the hazelnut spread, strawberries, bananas and whipped cream.
Fun sweet crepes fact: You can get any flavor combination on top of a waffle instead of a crepe.
When it comes to savory crepes, you can't go wrong with the Ham and Cheese made with thin-sliced lunchmeat-style ham, creamy gruyere cheese and honey aioli or the Super Veg made with spinach, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms, feta and bechamel sauce.
Geppetto's signature savory crepe should also be considered. The Bonjour is two scrambled eggs and brie stuffed inside a crepe and served with bacon and maple syrup on top.
If a suggested crepe or waffle flavor combination doesn't jump out at you, create your own. Choose from vegetables such as avocado and spinach; cheeses such as goat and brie; meats such as turkey and prosciutto; spreads such as Nutella and a Belgium cookie spread similar to Biscoff; fruit such as strawberries and mixed berries; and sauces such as bechamel and hummus.
Be warned, extras can add up quickly and cost double the amount of a standard option.
While I'm a huge crepe fan, the French toast was the highlight of our meal. Geppetto's uses challah bread for its French toast. It's cut thick and adds a little additional sweetness. Try the classic preparation served with just butter and maple syrup. Other options include French toast with raspberry compote and goat cheese and strawberries, mascarpone cheese and a cinnamon-brown sugar topping.
Geppetto's recently expanded its menu to include paninis and a variety of gelato from Mercurio's in Shadyside. For paninis, try the mozzarella, tomato and pesto panini, a twist on the caprese salad.
When it comes to gelato, ask for an Affogato — a coffee-based dessert usually made with a scoop of gelato and topped with a shot of hot espresso. The hot, bitter espresso melts the gelato, creating a creamy coffee-swirled dessert that should definitely be experienced often.
Breakfast spots have a certain rhythm to them. The service is typically fast, and the staff is usually friendly. Geppetto's has nailed the friendly staff, but it needs some work on the service. Expect a wait once you sit down. Our waitress was attentive, but the whole operation seemed a little disorganized. Part of our order was forgotten, a table behind us received their food at three different times, and coffee refills didn't happen often.
Once Geppetto's works out some minor details, it's bound to become a go-to breakfast spot in the Lawrenceville area.
Julie Gongaware is one of the food-savvy ladies of eatPGH.com, who contribute a weekly Dining Out column to the Tribune-Review.
