Getting to the root of taste

They often are described as "lowly."

But is that the way to treat vegetables that have helped masses of people survive during hard times• Instead, perhaps we might consider parsnips, rutabagas and turnips a "trinity."

Chefs nationwide are rediscovering root vegetables in many phases of growth, according to "Farmer" Lee Jones of The Chef's Garden, in Huron, Ohio.

"They want seasonal and indigenous," Jones says. "They are finding different ways to prepare them. We sell turnips in six or seven maturity stages, from a micro turnip to full-sized. Each has a different taste and texture, and the chefs love it."

The Chef's Garden is a small artisanal organic farm that grows herbs, edible flowers, micro greens and vegetables exclusively for chefs and restaurants, including Charlie Trotter's in Chicago; Thomas Keller, of The French Laundry, in Yountville, Calif.; and Daniel Boulud, of Daniel, in New York City.

"We're seeing fewer requests for heirloom tomatoes this time of year, and more for the seasonal root crops, which the chefs form into remarkable presentations," Jones says. "It's exciting to see chefs hunker down on what's truly seasonal. It's like asparagus season -- you eat asparagus three times a day, then you lust for it after the season ends. It's the same with vegetables such as parsnips, turnips and rutabagas."

Chefs who embrace European and New American cuisines appreciate root vegetables' versatility.

The trend is one that's been slow to take hold in the Pittsburgh market, but some chefs have been giving the trinity of root vegetables a try.

The Mighty Oak Barrel, in Oakmont, complemented roasted pork shank with carrots, turnips, parsnips and rutabaga on its autumn menu, and offered a Winter Ragu Turnover with root vegetables as an appetizer special, says co-owner Grainne Trainor.

Kevin Sousa, the farsighted executive chef at Bigelow Grille Regional Cooking & Bar at the Doubletree Hotel Pittsburgh City Center, Uptown, shared a recipe for Microvegetable Fricassee with all three veggies in a presentation he did last year for "Cooking Class," a column that appears in the Sunday Trib.

Irish pubs and taverns -- including Molly Brannigan's, in Mt. Lebanon, which serves a side dish of mashed carrots and parsnips -- often feature the vegetables in their traditional dishes.

Baking, boiling, blanching, glazing, frying and stewing are just some of the ways they can be prepared.

Rutabagas take twice as long to cook as turnips and parsnips because they are denser. However, baby turnips, rutabagas and parsnips, grown by specialty farmers, are tender and sweet, suitable for eating raw in salads.

"It's an unloved vegetable," says Yelena M. Rennie, a cooking instructor in Boston and former computer engineer who graduated from Carnegie Mellon University. "And it sounds strange. I never tasted a rutabaga until a few years ago. It's good and sweet."

On her food blog , Rennie features a recipe for Pittsburgh Salad with Rutabaga Fries, inspired by the first such salad she tasted at Union Grill in Oakland during her college days and a rutabaga that was included in a box of vegetables from her subscription to a community sustainable agriculture farm.

"I'd made rutabaga fries before," she says. The trick is to roast the rutabaga instead of deep-frying it. "They are much softer and sweeter than potato fries."

Turnips and rutabagas belong to the mustard family -- the rutabaga is considered to be a cross between a cabbage and a turnip. Parsnips are in the carrot family. In fact, parsnips resemble irregularly shaped carrots, except they are white.

A common attribute among the trinity is that they usually taste better when harvested after exposure to frost, which is why cultivation is heavier in the northern states. Cold temperatures turn the roots' starches to sugars. Although available year-round in the United States, crops grown in Southern climates often don't develop the typical sweetness and flavor of their northern-grown counterparts.

Rustling through the bins

Here is what to look for when choosing turnips, rutabagas and parsnips, according to Sam Gugino, a former Philadelphia chef and cookbook author who writes for Wine Spectator magazine, on his Web site :

Turnips

Select small to medium-size turnips that are heavy for their size, which indicates good moisture content. They should have good color and firmness with no bruises, soft spots or shriveling. The stem end might be somewhat flattened. Winter turnips might be larger with tougher skin, so choose carefully during that time of the year.

If greens are attached, they should be bright and fresh-looking. The greens are nutritious and delicious; remove them immediately if they come attached to the turnips and store separately in plastic bags. The greens should last for three to four days in the refrigerator.

Turnips like cold, moist surroundings -- as cool as 32 degrees. In plastic bags in the refrigerator, turnips will last as long as two weeks.

Rutabagas

Look for medium-size roots, 4-5 inches across, because exceptionally large ones might be a bit difficult to handle. They should be heavy for their size -- lighter ones might be woody. The wax on the surface of some is applied to prolong shelf life.

Rutabagas also like cold, moist surroundings. Rutabagas should be stored in plastic unless they are waxed. They will last as long as two months under proper conditions.

Parsnips

Parsnips should be firm with a good creamy color and without spots, blemishes, cuts or cracks. Look for a uniform shape, 4-5 inches long, and reject any that are limp or shriveled. Avoid particularly large parsnips, because they could be woody, and those that are quite small because they are not as economical and require more preparation time. Store them in plastic bags in the refrigerator for as long as two weeks.

Nutrition information

Here is the nutrition information for a 1-cup serving of boiled root vegetables.

Turnips, mashed: 51 calories, less than 1 gram fat, 0 milligrams cholesterol, 2 grams protein, 12 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams dietary fiber, 37 milligrams sodium.

Rutabaga, mashed: 94 calories, less than 1 gram fat, 0 milligrams cholesterol, 3 grams protein, 21 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams dietary fiber, 48 milligrams sodium.

Parsnips, sliced: 110 calories, less than 1 gram fat, 0 milligrams cholesterol, 2 grams protein, 26 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams dietary fiber,16 milligrams sodium.

Pittsburgh Salad with Rutabaga Fries

• Vinaigrette ( recipe follows )
• 1 batch Rutabaga Fries ( recipe follows )
• Mixed greens, arugula or baby spinach
• Chopped nuts, to taste, optional
• Pomegranate seeds, to taste, optional
• Your favorite cheese, to taste, optional

Prepare the Vinaigrette. Set aside.

Prepare the Rutabaga Fries just before serving the salad.

To plate: Toss the mixed greens with the vinaigrette. Place on plates and sprinkle with the nuts or pomegranate seeds or a combination. Top with the Rutabaga Fries and, if desired, some cheese.

Vinaigrette

• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
• 1/2 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard, optional
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• Salt and ground black pepper, to taste

In a small bowl, mix the lemon juice, vinegar and mustard, using a fork, until well blended. Pour in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly. Whisk until well combined. Season with salt and pepper.

Rutabaga Fries

• 1 rutabaga, peeled and cut into French-fry shapes
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 clove garlic, finely chopped
• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary, sage or thyme
• Salt and ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 tablespoons canola oil

Heat the oven to 475 degrees and position a rack in the lower third of the oven. Mix the rutabaga with the olive oil, garlic, herbs, salt and pepper. Put a large cookie sheet into the lower third of the oven for 5 minutes to heat.

Add 2 tablespoons canola oil to the cookie sheet and return it to the oven for 2 minutes. Put the rutabaga fries onto the hot cookie sheet. They should sizzle. Spread them out, using tongs, into 1 layer.

Roast for 15 minutes. Stir and roast for 10-15 minutes longer, until tender and browned. Remove to a bowl lined with paper towels to absorb the oil. Sprinkle with salt and serve.

Makes 2 servings.

Roasted Vegetables

This recipe is from "The New England Table" by Lora Brody (Chronicle, $35).

• 4 small turnips, peeled and quartered lengthwise
• 8 carrots, peeled and cut on the diagonal into 2-inch lengths
• 16 whole brussels sprouts, trimmed
• 4 shallots, peeled and halved
• 2 large golden beets, blanched, peeled and quartered
• 4 parsnips, peeled and cut on the diagonal into 2-inch lengths
• 2 sweet potatoes, peeled and quartered
• 3 tablespoons mild olive oil
• 3 tablespoons canola oil
• 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
• 2 tablespoons coarse salt
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage leaves
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Place 2 oven racks as close to the center of the oven as possible.

In a large bowl, combine the turnips, carrots, brussels sprouts, shallots, beets, parsnips and sweet potatoes and toss to combine. Drizzle them with the olive and canola oils, vinegar, salt, sage and black pepper. Toss, using a wooden spoon, until the vegetables are evenly coated. Place the vegetables in a single layer on 2 large rimmed baking sheets.

Using 2 baking sheets is better, so that the vegetables can roast in a single layer. You want to be sure that they caramelize as they roast, rather than steam.

Roast, testing occasionally with a skewer or the tines of a fork, until the vegetables are tender but not mushy, for about 1 hour. Stir the vegetables gently every 20 minutes to ensure even browning. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Makes 8 servings.

Wild Rice and Parsnip Suppli with Crushed Cauliflower and Cherry Jus

Cookbook author Paul Gayler, executive chef at London's Lanesborough Hotel, features this recipe in "Pure Vegetarian: Modern and Stylish Vegetarian Cooking," a new release from Kyle Books, $29.95. Suppli is the Italian word for rice fritters. The chef recommends serving the dish with roasted wild or portobello mushrooms. Fresh rosemary or chopped flatleaf parsley can substitute for the fresh sage. Vegetarian jus is reduced roasted vegetable broth.

For the rice and parsnip suppli:

• 1/3 cup uncooked wild rice
• Water
• Salt, to taste
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 6 fresh sage leaves, roughly chopped, divided
• 2 parsnips, peeled and grated
• 2/3 cup arborio rice or other risotto rice
• 3 3/4 cups premium vegetable broth, heated
• 2 tablespoons freshly grated castelli vegetalia cheese (similar to parmesan cheese)
• 1 cup fresh white bread crumbs
• 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 3 tablespoons olive oil

For the cherry jus:

• 2 tablespoons demerara sugar (raw cane sugar)
• 1/4 cup sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar
• 1/2 cup port wine
• 3/4 cup Vegetarian Jus ( recipe follows )
• 1/3 cup dried cherries
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces

For the cauliflower:

• 1 cauliflower, cut into small florets
• Boiling water
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

To prepare the suppli: Soak the wild rice in water to cover overnight. Drain. Cook the wild rice in plenty of boiling salted water for 40-45 minutes or until tender. Drain well and dry.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a heavy pan. Add the onion and half of the sage and cook over low heat for 3-4 minutes, until soft. Add the parsnips and risotto rice and cook together for 1-2 minutes. Over medium heat, add the hot vegetable broth, 1 ladleful at a time, only adding more once each quantity has been absorbed. The rice should be just tender but retain a little bite when cooked, for 20-25 minutes in all.

Remove from the heat, add the cheese, cooked wild rice, bread crumbs and remaining sage, and mix well before turning out onto a cookie sheet. Leave to cool.

Divide the mixture into 8 equal portions and shape into cakes. Drop them in flour, then into the beaten egg. The cakes can be refrigerated until cooking time for as long as 1 day.

To make the cherry jus: Place the sugar and vinegar in a pan and heat lightly to caramelize, until golden. Add the port wine, Vegetarian Jus and dried cherries and simmer for 10 minutes over low heat. Add 1 tablespoon chilled butter and swirl it into the sauce. Keep hot.

To make the cauliflower: Cook the cauliflower florets in boiling water until tender. Drain well, then add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and salt and pepper. Crush the florets lightly, using a fork. Keep hot.

To finish the suppli: Cook the cakes in a large skillet in 3 tablespoons olive oil for 2-3 minutes on each side, until golden. Drain on paper towels.

To plate: Place 2 cooked cakes on each serving plate on a bed of crushed cauliflower and pour some of the cherry jus around. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings.

Vegetarian Jus

• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1/2 stick unsalted butter
• 4 shallots, chopped
• 2 carrots, peeled and chopped
• 4 ribs celery, chopped
• 6 cloves garlic, halved horizontally
• 1 pound button mushrooms, chopped
• Sprig of fresh thyme
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup red wine
• 8 pints roasted vegetable broth or regular vegetable broth
• 1 tablespoon vegetarian Worcestershire sauce
• 1 1/4 cups Madeira or sherry wine

Heat the olive oil and butter in a large heavy pan. Add the shallots, carrots, celery and garlic, and cook over low heat for 10-15 minutes, until golden and lightly caramelized. Add the mushrooms and thyme and cook for 2-3 minutes more. Stir in the tomato paste, cook for 1 minute, then mix in the flour and cook over low heat for 2 minutes. Pour in the red wine, vegetable broth and Worcestershire sauce. Stir and bring to a boil. Add the Madeira, simmer for 20 minutes, then strain into a clean bowl, discarding the vegetables. Let cool and refrigerate until needed.

Makes 4 pints.

Roasted Chicken and Turnips in Peanut Sauce

This recipe appears in "Homemade in Half the Time," edited by Shea Waggoner (Rodale, $19.95 paperback). The slightly bitter bite of the turnips goes well with the sweet distinctive peanut sauce.

• 1 1/2 pounds turnips, peeled and cut into walnut-size chunks
• Water
• Vegetable cooking spray
• 4 1/2 pounds skinless chicken thighs
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1 cup bottled Thai peanut sauce

Heat the oven to 375 degrees.

Place the turnips in an 8- by 8-inch microwaveable baking dish. Add enough water to come 1/4 inch up the sides of the dish. Cover with plastic wrap, leaving a small corner vent. Cook in the microwave on high power for 5 minutes, or until partially cooked. Drain and set aside.

Coat a 17- by 11-inch baking pan or other large shallow baking pan with vegetable cooking spray. Place the chicken in the pan, overlapping slightly if necessary. Scatter the turnips in the pan. Sprinkle with the salt and drizzle with the oil.

Bake for 45-50 minutes, or until the mixture is sizzling, the chicken no longer is pink and the juices run clear. An instant-read thermometer should register 165 degrees in the thickest part of the thighs.

Drizzle the peanut sauce over the chicken and turnips. Stir to coat well. Turn on the broiler and place the chicken about 6 inches from the heat source for about 4 minutes, or until browned.

Makes 4-6 servings.

Honey-Mustard Chicken and Winter Vegetables

Parsnips and turnips add flavor and texture to this one-dish meal. The recipe is from "Cooking Smart for a Healthy Heart" by the Reader's Digest editors (The Reader's Guide Association Inc., $29.95). Roasted garlic can be used as a spread on a whole-wheat baguette.

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 8 cloves garlic, unpeeled
• 10 ounces white turnips, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch wedges
• 8 ounces parsnips, peeled, quartered lengthwise and cut into 2-inch lengths
• 8 ounces butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
• 1/4 cup soft sun-dried tomatoes (not packed in oil), coarsely chopped
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 cup Dijon-style mustard
• 4 teaspoons honey
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 4 skinless bone-in chicken breast halves (8 ounces each)

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Combine the oil and garlic in a 13-by- 9-inch metal baking pan. Roast until the garlic is fragrant, for about 5 minutes.

Add the turnips, parsnips, squash and sun-dried tomatoes. Sprinkle with the salt and stir to combine. Roast until the vegetables start to color, for about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the mustard, honey and lemon juice in a small bowl.

Drizzle 2 tablespoons of the mustard mixture over the vegetables and toss to coat. Place the chicken on the vegetables and spoon the remaining mustard mixture on the chicken. Bake until the chicken is almost done and the vegetables are tender, for about 25 minutes.

Heat the broiler. Broil until the chicken is golden brown and cooked through, for about 5 minutes. Serve the chicken with the vegetables, squeezing the garlic from its skin and discarding the skin before eating.

Makes 4 servings.