Few restaurants can be as traumatic for the indecisive as Gullifty's.
This bright, airy restaurant is a Squirrel Hill institution, and other than a few subtly weird three-dimensional wire sculptures up on a wall, there are few visual cues to indicate its relentlessly eclectic nature. With so many choices, it's hard to describe it as anything but melting-pot American: part Jewish deli, part greasy pizza kitchen, part fine Italian bistro, part Mexican restaurant and part dessert lover's heaven.
It's this last characteristic that Gullifty's has struck upon as its main selling point, and with good reason. Monsters such as the Peanut Butter Melt-Away ($4.95), a chocolate and peanut butter mousse on brownie crust; the Killer Kookie ($6.95), which is basically a giant banana split on a baked-to-order chocolate chip and walnut cookie; and the Chocolate Mousse Bombe ($4.95), a dome-shaped chocolate cake filled with mousse; tend to overpower and often obliterate any resistance.
For a subtler assault on your taste buds, try the brilliant French Strawberry Pie ($4.50), which layers chocolate truffles, whipped cream cheese, fresh strawberries and a sugary glaze in a delicate pastry crust. My slice, however, bowed a bit to the humidity, which seemed to take all the life out of the whipped cream cheese.
These desserts are so filling and almost uniformly wonderful, you could almost make a meal out of them. Many people do.
But for those of you who insist on actual nourishment, however, it's hard to go wrong with Gullifty's soup. The Baked Potato Soup ($2.95 a cup, $3.95 a bowl) has varied in quality on different visits, but when it's right, it's unmatched for its smooth, creamy texture and its flavor accents of bacon, sour cream and cheese.
Choosing an entree, sandwich or pizza from the massive menu can be quite an ordeal -- pick the first thing that makes your stomach rumble. C'mon, there are five (!) reubens to choose from. The Romanian Reuben ($6.95), a triple-decker pastrami tower with Swiss cheese and sour cream on grilled pumpernickel, is among the most formidable.
Other excellent sandwiches include the Turkey Devonshire ($6.95), which unites the familiar turkey, bacon, tomato and cheese in an unfamiliar place -- an English muffin. And for a Squirrel Hill ethnic specialty, you can't miss with Gullifty's Meshugna ($6.95), which places grilled corned beef and cole slaw on two giant, savory potato pancakes, and doesn't skimp on the Russian dressing.
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