The story goes that in the 1930s, the brothers Primanti cooked up a grand scheme.
They invented a sandwich: “A big hunk of grilled meat and chilly cole slaw and hot fried egg and fresh tomato and crisp french fries between two slabs of chewy Italian bread that you could hardly fit into your mouth.” And, they got it in their heads to sell these mouth-watering monstrosities in the middle of the night to hungry Strip District dock workers. The ingenious design allowed them to “eat the whole thing with one hand and keep working.”
The rest, as they say, is history. Best known for their enormous Pitts-Burgher Cheese Steak Sandwich, famished Valley dwellers can go to Harmar to sample what has become a 'Burgh culinary staple. And, although Primanti Brothers Restaurant & Bar only recently set up shop, plan an early or late lunch to avoid a long wait.
We began with an order of Gourmet Chicken Wings. Instead of dozens and half-dozens, they come in servings of four ($2.95 ) if you just want a taste, or 10 ($4.95) if you want to get serious. The Honey BBQ was a home run. The sauce was outstanding: sweet, with a smoky flavor. The Honey Dijon wings also were excellent. A bit messy; but we like 'em like that.
Primanti's serves its onion rings on a spool, creating a Tower of “O” Rings. ($4.95, 6-inch size; $8.95, 12-inch size). Large slices of sweet Bermuda onion were thickly breaded, but the crunchy coating wasn't overwhelming.
No such foray is complete without a decent case of heartburn, so don't pass up the Almost Famous Hot Chili Bowl Pittsburgh Style ($2.50). One size fits all: a bowl. It comes with fresh onion and green pepper chips atop shredded cheddar cheese. Now, that's a bowl of chili! Rich and zesty — you'll enjoy it all afternoon.
Before ordering the “2x meat” option on one of Primanti Brothers sandwiches, please read “How to Sneak Up on a Sandwich That's Too Big for Your Mouth” ($19.95, Amazon.com). Once you've completed the entire at-home training course, you're ready for the Pastrami and Cheese ($4.75; with double meat, add $1.95).
Yes, it's too big for your mouth. This is not a bad thing. The meat is lean and fresh, and they don't skimp on the fries and slaw just because you sprang for the extra flesh. A well-planned attack will have you munching through the middle of the sandwich in no time. Once you pick up a Primanti sandwich, you're committed. There's no putting it down until you're done, unless you want to put the whole thing together again every time you try to pick it up.
Unlike the gargantuan sandwiches, the Chicken Parmesan Primanti-style ($7.25) was a modest-sized dish perfect for lunch or a light dinner. What it might have lacked in stature, it compensated for in flavor. Tender, white chicken breast was coated in a flavorful, crunchy breading and topped with bubbly cheese. A side of penne was topped with tangy marinara sauce and a sprinkling of fresh parsley and Parmesan cheese.
One guest Lunch Buncher in our crew confessed to indulging in dozens of Primanti Pitts-Burgher Cheese Steak ($4.75) sandwiches throughout the years. He was not disappointed with this most recent hamburger-style steak topped with provolone cheese, fries, the unique cole slaw and tomatoes.
However, this was a chance to try new things on the menu, and we found the Colossal Fish & Cheese ($5.95) a colossal disappointment. The fish tasted as if it just came out of a freezer and had too much fried breading.
Salad seekers will enjoy the Taco Fresco Salad ($5.25). Served in a fried taco-shell bowl, chili, tomatoes, onions, green and japaleno peppers, cheese and sour cream topped fresh, green lettuce.
We brought back a Deluxe Pizza ($11.95, including five toppings) for the gang at the office, and rave reviews ensued. Done up in old Italian style, Primanti's claims their pizza is made from scratch, with a thin, crispy, hand-tossed crust and a spicy-sweet tomato sauce. This is one of the best pizzas the Bunch has tasted.
One of our Bunch was unable to get out of the office, so he got a to-go order. He was worried the cole slaw and fries on the sandwich would render it an oily, greasy pile of mush. He was wrong. The Cappicola & Cheese sandwich ($4.75) remained in good shape and was a tasty treat.
Compiled by Nicole Peffer, Matt Provenzo, Jeff Domenick, Rick Starr, Debra Duncan and Barbara Daugherty. Meals are paid for by the Valley News Dispatch. Reviews are unrelated to advertising.
| Primanti Brothers Bar & Restaurant |
