Helen's restaurant will make a gourmet feast of fish

It's something old and something new at Seven Springs Mountain Resort's fine-dining venue, Helen's Restaurant.

What's old is that the ski destination in the Laurel Highlands, Somerset County, was founded in 1932 by Adolph and Helen Dupre; the restaurant operates out of the family's "Bavarian Cabin," where the Dupres raised their children. Seven Springs -- formerly Seven Springs Farm -- has grown from a single tow rope powered by an old Packard automobile engine into the No. 1-rated mountain resort in the mid-Atlantic region, and is the commonwealth's largest ski and four-season resort.

What's new is that last summer, the sprawling business -- which also features an 18-hole golf course and convention center -- was purchased by the Nutting family, owners of Ogden Publications, including Mother Earth News and Grit magazines and more than 20 daily newspapers, and part owners of the Pittsburgh Pirates. The Nuttings' focus on green living and conservation has permeated the kitchen at Helen's, which serves intercontinental cuisine, according to executive chef Jeff Surgent, who is celebrating his 21st year there.

Nestled on a hill behind the massive ski lodge is the quaint but rustic cabin that houses Helen's, a destination in its own right. "Our menu changes every six weeks," says Surgent, a graduate of the culinary arts program at Westmoreland Community College. He describes the cuisine as a blend of French, American, Pacific Rim and Asian cooking; in cooler months, there is a spotlight on game, such as venison, antelope, boar and buffalo, and prime cuts such as Kobe beef. "We've served just about every type of game ... well, no elephant," he says.

Assisted in the kitchen by sous chef Jessica Dunn -- "she has that touch for presentation and makes fabulous desserts," he says -- Surgent is featuring fresh-caught locally raised trout this summer from Angelo Trout Farm, in Normalville, Fayette County, 10 minutes from the resort. Helen's diners can enjoy the fish stuffed with a crab mousse and poached in chardonnay with green onions, tomatoes and sugar snap peas. There also is trout fishing at the resort, and guests who have a good day at the hole can turn their catch over to Surgent's staff to prepare for them.

The dinner-only menu features Hudson Valley Duck Foie Gras, seared with bush berries and prosciutto and served with berry sauce; venison kielbasa; and chilled ahi tuna and sweet shrimp as appetizers. Broiled lobster tails, pheasant medallions, Mongolian-style New Zealand Lamb and pork osso buco are among the entrees, which are served with a house salad and freshly baked bread.

Pasta dishes include shrimp, crab and sea scallops; veal tips; and sauteed vegetables with smoked bacon and pine nuts. Classic Steak Diane, prepared tableside, also is available, cooked with shiitake mushrooms, garlic and shallots in a brandy cabernet sauce.

Dunn makes souffles to order, says Surgent, as well as changing desserts such as a fresh peach tart with crumb crust and blackberry sauce; Chocolate Blitz (chocolate meringue mousse with ganache); and Bananas Foster (flamed tableside); as well as simple fresh berries over ice cream.

Patrons can dine in the original one-room home of the Dupre family -- which includes a loft where the children slept -- or in a more modern atmosphere at a large bar-dining room that was added on to the cabin to expand seating. There also is al fresco dining on a tented deck.

Helen's Restaurant at Seven Springs Mountain Resort , 777 Waterwheel Drive, Somerset County, is open from 6-10 p.m. seven days per week during the winter, summer and fall and five days per week during the spring. The bar remains open after the kitchen closes. Reservations are required; to avoid a $25 charge for each person, cancellations must be made at least 24 hours in advance. Details: 800-452-2223, ext. 7827.

Jeff Surgent, executive chef at Helen's Restaurant at Seven Springs Mountain Resort, offers this simple trout recipe for summer dining. If desired, other vegetables can be added to the pickled mixture, and you can substitute similar fish, such as mahi-mahi, walleye, roughy or Chilean sea bass.

For the pickles:

• 2 ears sweet corn, such as Silver Queen, husked, silk removed

• 1 seedless cucumber, sliced crosswise as thin as possible

• 1 bunch green onions, finely minced

• Handful of grape tomatoes; or cherry tomatoes, cut in half; or beefsteak tomatoes, cut in 1-inch pieces

• 3 heaping tablespoons pickled ginger

• 1 tablespoon kosher salt

• 1 1/2 cups seasoned rice vinegar (sushi rice vinegar)

• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the fish:

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

• 2 rainbow trout (12 to 13 inches long each), gutted, cleaned and dressed

• Vegetable oil

• Fresh sprouts or microgreens, for garnish

Make the pickles within a few hours of serving the fish, otherwise the vegetables will lose crispness. Using a sharp knife, cut the kernels from the corncobs. Discard the cobs. Place the corn, cucumber, green onions, tomatoes, ginger and 1 tablespoon kosher salt in a large bowl. Add the rice vinegar ( see Photo 1 ) and mix. Season with pepper. Refrigerate until serving time.

For the fish: Prepare a charcoal or gas grill, and heat the oven to 450 degrees. When the grill is hot, oil the grid. Coat the inside and outside of the fish with salt and pepper, then place the fish on the grid over medium heat ( Photo 2 ). After the fish have a "nice char" on the cooked side, flip over, and brown the other side. This will take a total of 8-10 minutes.

Transfer to oven-proof pans and finish cooking the fish in the hot oven, for about 5 minutes. Or, move to a cooler part of the grill and cover the grill to finish cooking. The internal temperature on an instant-read thermometer should reach 170 degrees.

When the fish is done, transfer to a cutting board. If desired, skin and debone the trout ( Photo 3 ). To plate, place the fish on the center of 2 dinner plates and, using a slotted spoon to drain, top with some of the pickle mixture ( Photo 4 ). Garnish with sprouts or microgreens.

Makes 2 servings.