Here’s ‘The Scoop’ on store-bought ice cream

If you are looking for ways to give ice cream a new twist, it's time to get "The Scoop."

Lori Longbotham, former editor of Gourmet magazine, offers 150 cool ideas for fashioning ice cream desserts with minimum effort in her new book, "The Scoop: How to Change Store-Bought Ice Cream Into Fabulous Desserts."

"Having spent much of my life dedicated to researching the subject, I am convinced that, nowadays, store-bought ice cream is almost always better than homemade," Longbotham says. "The abundance of readily available delicious ice creams, sorbets and other frozen desserts -- and the sauces and toppings to go with them -- gives any busy cook a huge head start on dessert."

Published in April, the softcover book comes just in time to help stave off cravings induced by warmer weather. Ice cream always is cool eaten out of the carton, but for those times when you want something more, Longbotham offers recipes ranging from basic to elegant, everything from shakes and cones to cakes, pies and bombes.

A few photographs would greatly enhance the book, which has none except for the covers. However, it includes an interesting brief history of frozen desserts and an explanation of the difference between premium and economy ice creams. (Cheaper ice creams generally are whipped with more air.) There also are plenty of tips for scooping, arranging, decorating and serving ice cream.

The following recipe is pictured on the book's front cover.

Editor's note: To reduce the risk of salmonella poisoning, use pasteurized raw eggs or pasteurized egg substitute for the regular eggs. Raw eggs or uncooked foods made with them never should be served to infants, young children, the elderly, the chronically ill or people with immune-compromising diseases, such as cancer or AIDS.

• 9 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
• 14 tablespoons (1 3/4 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 8 large eggs, at room temperature
• 2 pints vanilla ice cream, slightly softened
• 2 pints cherry or raspberry sorbet, slightly softened
• Chocolate shavings (optional)
• Cherries on the stem or fresh raspberries (optional)
• Confectioners' sugar for dusting (optional)

Generously butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan.

Combine the chocolate, butter and granulated sugar in a heatproof bowl, set it over a saucepan of simmering water and whisk until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes.

Whisk the eggs one at a time into the chocolate mixture, then whisk until well blended. Pour 11/2 cups of the chocolate mixture into the prepared pan. Freeze for at least 30 minutes, until firm. Cover the remaining chocolate mixture and set aside at room temperature.

Spoon the ice cream in small pieces over the chocolate, filling in any large holes, then spread it evenly with a warm rubber spatula. (Be careful when you spread the ice cream over the chocolate mixture, as it doesn't freeze solid.) Pour half of the remaining chocolate mixture over the frozen ice cream layer. Freeze for at least 30 minutes, until firm.

Spoon the sorbet in small pieces over the chocolate, filling in any large holes, then, using a warm rubber spatula, spread it evenly. Pour the remaining chocolate mixture over the sorbet. Cover the pan tightly with aluminum foil. Freeze for at least 6 hours or for as long as 2 weeks.

To serve, let the cake stand at room temperature for 5 to 10 minutes or in the refrigerator for 15 to 20 minutes. Run a table knife around the inside of the pan, release the side of the pan and remove it. If desired, garnish the top of the cake with chocolate shavings or cherries or both and a light sifting of confectioners' sugar. Cut into wedges.

Makes 12 servings.