The perfect winter coat is a fusion of function and flair. It's one of those fashion finds that you know is right as soon as you try it on. It feels good, looks good and, if you're really lucky, is on sale.
For fall/winter 2002, one of the trendiest styles — the pea coat — is reminiscent of a clothing item your dad might still have hanging in his closet from the last time it was fashionable, back in the '60s. He might even still wear the men's version of the warm Navy-inspired classic — it's that serviceable and comfy.
While it's possible to snag an original military-issue pea coat on a vintage clothing rack or an online auction Web site, it's much easier to find a brand-new version of the double-breasted tailored style. The pea coat is popping up for fall in collections at both ends of the fashion spectrum, from DKNY's high-end navy blue interpretation ($498) to J.C. Penney's affordable hooded pea coat in black or charcoal ($99).
Abercrombie & Fitch has an Ellen Wool pea coat ($159) in grey or red, while J. Crew has a unique longer, sleeker, Thinsulate-lined version of the classic style in black or caramel tweed for $178. Pea coats are plentiful among designers this season.
"This season's collection of coats includes variations on the ever-popular pea coat," says Dena McHugh, spokeswoman for Casual Corner Group, which joins the military invasion with its own navy pea coat cardigan ($59), a chunky rib knit cotton sweater with brass tone buttons and notched collar.
"In addition to the traditional black and camel," McHugh says, Casual Corner "has added a blue fog and vintage lavender this fall, as well as lengths ranging from short to mid-calf to long. Some are belted, others are double-breasted — one to suit everyone's personal style."
For those who don't care to sport the casual military look, the season offers many other coat options for when the winds start whipping and the snow starts flying. With such a wide variety of selections available, "it's a great year to invest in a coat," says Betsy Thompson, spokeswoman for Talbots.
She says that while it's difficult to pick out one coat that is the most versatile, she thinks an all-time classic is the double-breasted, full-length camel-hair coat, which she calls "a smart wardrobe investment with long-term returns. I've been wearing mine for nearly 10 years now and plan to replace it with another just like it."
Thompson says versatility is what makes the camel-hair such a good choice.
"You can wear it with jeans, over a suit or dress," she says. "We have one in our assortment that retails for $398. We also have a single-breasted walking coat with distinctive pick-stitching that retails for $288."
Plush shearling — both real and faux — turned up in the fall collections of Michael Kors, John Galliano and Andrew Marc, whose imported fur from Spain Toscana lamb shearling in black or grey graces a coat ($695) at Saks Fifth Avenue. Also at Saks, from Drizzle, is a faux shearling hooded duffel coat with button-off muffler and flap pockets in sand ($335).
The same embellishments that currently decorate fall's blouses and sweaters are equally as important on coats this season, according to Quinton Crenshaw, spokesman for J.C. Penney. Those embellishments include novelty-fur and faux-fur trims, embroidery and quilting, he says. As for fabrications, Crenshaw agrees that shearling and faux shearling, along with denim and corduroy, are key looks.
"J.C. Penney's most versatile coat is the '4-in-1 Microfiber Jacket,' which retails for $149.99," he says. Its options include lightweight microfiber, an inner jacket made of light nylon that reverses to polyester fleece, and a hood for warmth, he says.
As for length, coats range from short styles that hit the waist or just below it to "the hottest length for fall, three-quarter or the city coat length that typically falls from mid-thigh to right above the knee," Crenshaw says.
"It's a wonderful coat year, the best we've seen in a long time," says Alison Mayher, fashion spokeswoman for Saks Fifth Avenue, Pittsburgh. "Precious styles in alpaca, cashmere and camel hair are very important and warm — a nice alternative for people who don't want to buy a fur coat."
Velvet resurfaces at Saks in a rich cabernet coat with high-button neck from 5/48 ($275), paired with camel pinstripe low-rise pants ($165) for a luxury-meets-everyday look. From Bill Blass, also at Saks, is an Italian herringbone tweed coat ($950) and, for a night on the town, a striking navy water-repellant cashmere wrap coat with dyed sheared mink collar and cuffs ($1,895). Yet another pea coat from Calvin Klein tweaks the traditional look in black velvet with a cropped, tailored fit ($295).
As fashion pays tribute to the outerwear of yesteryear, it's no surprise that the famous plaid Burberry is the coat of the season, according to Mayher, "from short jackets to use of the plaid in collars and cuffs and, in some cases, linings."
She says the stylish British tan-and-red plaid — in all its applications — "is flying out of here, and to go with it, warm scarves and earmuffs."
| Coat styles defined |
Looking back, the coat has played an interesting role in fashion's ever-changing evolution. Its protective nature has shielded people from storms and swords, bringing true meaning to the phrase "lasting impression." While today's armor is no longer crafted of chain mail or cast metal, the key styles offer historic inspiration that's artfully remixed for a modern lifestyle:
Source: Betsy Thompson, fashion spokeswoman for Talbots
