Grieco's Carefree Inn is aptly named — the Indiana Township restaurant offers diners a chance to sit back and leisurely enjoy fine Italian cuisine. Whether you are at an intimate table for two or in a big, comfy circular booth with friends, you'll relish the laid back atmosphere at Grieco's, where you can take your time from appetizers to desserts. Masonry and wood-working meet in the main dining area, creating a classy yet comfortable atmosphere. A lounge is set off from the dining room, offering a more casual dining experience. We settled into a booth and started with a round of appetizers. The Stuffed Mushrooms ($6.95) were a treat. A half-dozen mushroom caps were stuffed with plenty of flavorful crabmeat. Perennial favorites, the Provolone Sticks ($3.50) and Deep Fried Zucchini ($3.50) were served piping hot with dipping sauce. The breading on each of these was crisp, providing a nice contrast in texture to the soft, gooey cheese or tender zucchini spear inside. The Soup Du Jour ($1.69 cup, $2.19 crock) was Beef Tortellini — a tomato-based broth with spinach and, of course, beef and tortellini. All entrees are served with fresh, soft Italian bread and salads, consisting of fresh iceberg lettuce, cherry tomatoes, sliced onion, olives, peppers and big, crunchy croutons —yum. Chicken Romano Carefree ($14.95) is billed as a house specialty, and we can see why. A large, split chicken breast was dipped in romano cheese batter and fried, and topped with a poulet mushroom sauce, which was cream-based, but not too heavy. The sauce had a lot of fresh mushrooms, too. The portion was so large, we took half home to eat the next day. For the less adventurous, the Chicken Romano also is available in the traditional style. We chose a cup of ziti marinara as our side dish, although it went almost untouched due to the large portion of the main course. Grieco's menu includes many seafood offerings, ranging from Alaskan King Crab Legs and Australian Lobster Tails to Flounder, Scrod and Orange Roughy. But from the seafood specialties menu, we tried the Swordfish Steak ($14.95). We ordered our center-cut of swordfish grilled (broiled or blackened and the other options). The steak was tender and mild, lacking any strong fishy flavor. It was served with a steaming baked potato on the side. The New York Strip Steak ($16.95) was prepared as we ordered (medium-well), but was a little on the dry side. Still, the steak was a nice size, and all of the fat had been trimmed. Grilled mushrooms were served on the side, as was our choice of a second side dish —a plump, baked potato. Grieco's Pasta Favorites menu seemed to be full of good choices, but it was the Manicotti ($9.50) that caught our eye. Rolled pasta was cooked al dente and stuffed with ricotta cheese, then covered with a hearty tomato sauce and baked in a tureen. It's a good thing we got this while we could — Grieco's has removed it from the menu. Rest assured, there are plenty of other pasta possibilities. Other entrees and specials worth trying include: Sirloin Filet with Shrimp and Scallop Barsac ($20.95) —a land and sea combination flavorfully and tenderly done; the Lasagna ($10.95), which was highlighted with a touch of spinach, Italian sausage and mushrooms; Caesar Salad, ($4.50) served with an outstanding dressing; Fried Crabcake With Roasted Red Pepper Coulise, ($4.25) which grabs the tastebuds with flavor; the Linguine With White Clam Sauce ($4 for side) which provided plenty of clams and garlic; Blackened Shrimp ($6.95) which was fit for a king; and Oysters on the Half-Shell ($7.95) tasted great and were presented nicely. One lesson we've learned doing After Dark reviews is to always save room for dessert. Grieco's offers a plethora of gourmet treats. We sampled the Triple Chocolate ($3.25), an almost too-rich —if there is such a thing — fudge-like cake; Reese's Peanut Butter Pie ($3.25), a layering of crust, chocolate, and peanut butter filling, sprinkled with chocolate sauce; and Snickers Pie ($3.25), which tasted remarkably like the candy bar. We neutralized all of the chocolate choices by also trying the Cheesecake with Strawberries ($3.50), a sweet, light and creamy treat. The Deep-fied Banana Caramel Cheesecake ($4.95) was a must-have dessert for those who prefer unique creations. Compiled by Jonathan and Jill Szish, Eric Felack and guests. Meals are paid for and reviews are unrelated to advertising. Grieco's Carefree Inn Address: Route 910, Indiana Township. Phone: 412-767-9460. Reservations: Accepted. Smoking policy: Smoking and nonsmoking sections available. Credit Cards: Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover. Hours: 4 to 9 p.m. Sunday; 4 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 4 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Dress: Casual. Prices: Appetizers, $3.50 to $6.95; Entrees, $9.50 to $20.95.

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