A couple of weeks ago, my son Leo broke his arm on the basketball court. We stayed close to home for a few days, so we needed the sort of food that would warm us inside. This recipe did the trick. Because spaghetti squash keeps for about two months, I didn't have to go farther than my pantry for my vegetables.
The Italian word "zucca" is used to describe gourds, squash and pumpkins. "Fiori di zucca" is what we call zucchini flowers. Spaghetti squash is referred to as "spaghetti di zucca," or vegetable spaghetti.
Although spaghetti squash is available on the Italian peninsula, it isn't a traditional Italian ingredient, per se.
When I started cooking in New York almost two decades ago, I was doing a new kind of Italian. It was reported as a "deluxe" version of the cooking found in the Italian countryside. To me, it was a logical next step. I used the techniques and preparations I had learned during my time in Italy and adapted them in new ways for American ingredients.
There's no traditional Italian preparation of spaghetti squash, but you can, no doubt, approach it with an Italian-ness. You can bake it with olive oil, salt and pepper, and add Italian parsley or sage for additional flavor, as I do in this preparation. Alternatively, you can eat it just as you would spaghetti, with tomato sauce, for a vegetarian, gluten-free pasta.
At this time of year, you have to scour the grocery aisles to find what's freshest. Like acorn squash, spaghetti squash is available year-round, but, in February and March, the bleakest times in a New York market, you have to take advantage. During the winter, this is a tasty seasonal option that works just as well as a main course as it does as a side dish. Spaghetti squash is a daunting vegetable, but this recipe makes it remarkably easy. It's great as a side dish or a main course, to be paired with a meat or a pasta. And because it's gluten-free, it's a nice addition to a party spread.
Spaghetti Squash With Soft Herbs and Robiola
- 2 small spaghetti squash (about 2 1/4 pounds each)
- Water
- 4 tablespoons ( 1/2 stick) unsalted butter
- 6 ounces fresh soft Robiola, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (you might substitute cream cheese)
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped green onions (white and about 2 inches of the greens)
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Heat the oven to 375 degrees.
Using a sharp knife, cut each squash in half lengthwise. Place them, cut sides down, in a large baking dish. Add enough water to reach 1/2 inch up the sides of the dish, and cover with aluminum foil. Bake for 45 minutes, or until the squash is easily pierced with a paring knife.
Turn the squash over, cover with foil again, and bake for another 15 minutes, until the squash is tender. Remove from the oven, uncover and allow to cool slightly. Using a spoon, remove and discard the seeds. Using a fork, gently pull the strands of squash away from the peel, and place the squash strands in a large mixing bowl.
In a 14-inch skillet, heat the butter over medium-high heat until it is foaming. Then, add the Robiola and stir to melt. Add the spaghetti squash, herbs and salt and pepper, and toss thoroughly but gently to heat and combine. Serve immediately or at room temperature.
Makes 8 to 10 servings as a side dish.
Mario Batali contributes a column twice a month to the Trib's food section. Batali is the owner of Babbo, Lupa, Otto and other renowned restaurants. His latest book is "Molto Batali," published by Ecco.
