Four years after Chaya’s opening, it’s now possible to get a table without a prolonged wait — at least on weekday evenings. But a steady stream of customers keeps the Squirrel Hill restaurant buzzing throughout the evening. You could use your visit as a special-event outing by reserving in advance for kaiseki, a traditional meal infused with ritual, a special nine-course menu and special presentation that’s priced between $55 and $75 per person. It’s also a casual, almost homey spot to be enjoyed with a group of friends when catching up over dinner is the focus of the evening. Service is relaxed and most items are prepared to order with meticulous care. There’s no urgency to hasten customers through their meal even though the tiny room has but eight tables and four seats at the sushi bar. The bare wood tables are closely placed without giving the feeling that your space is being invaded by other diners. It also gives you time to inventory the restaurant’s kitsch and clutter that includes a small garden with fountain, Hello Kitty knickknacks, origami figures, watercolors and wall plaques. On a raw, wet evening, Nabeyaki Udon ($10 a la carte, $13 with full dinner) proves comforting — a lidded earthenware crock filled with slippery udon noodles and big chunks of mushroom and other vegetables floating in a rich, smoky broth and accompanied by two large tempura-battered shrimp. We also enjoyed the Chicken Teriyaki ($10 a la carte, $13 full dinner ), a substantial serving of thinly sliced, though somewhat dry, chicken breast served atop crunchy, fresh bean sprouts with a savory sauce. Like many of the items it can be ordered a la carte or as a full dinner. Dinners come with miso soup, salad and appetizer-sized pieces of chicken fried to perfection, as well as a tiny dish of fresh-tasting pickled vegetables that are neither salty nor vinegary. Sushi — rightly — is the big draw here. If you’re indecisive about what to order, opt for the Chef’s Special Sushi ($42, full dinner). A richly diverse and abundant selection of nearly two dozen sushi arranged on the deck of a wooden boat. Our favorites were the buttery soft, deep-red tuna sashimi and the full-flavored eel sashimi as well as the maki rolls coated with tiny, jewel bright salmon roe that pop against the roof of your mouth. They were accompanied by a small mound of freshly grated wasabi which is much more lively than the standard powder-based product. The Chef’s Special gives a good indication of Chaya’s artistry and range. But the best way to enjoy this restaurant may be a la carte, mixing and matching a meal from among the seemingly endless menu of appetizers and sushi items. With a group of three or more this is an ideal way to sample the unfamiliar, introduce a novice to sushi or just enjoy the diverse range of dishes offered. Items range from $2.50 for a single piece of nigiri to $13 for some of the larger, more elaborate maki rolls. The biggest problems are limiting your selections and dealing with disappointment. Inevitably as seasons and supplies wax and wane some items will be unavailable. There were no live clams or wild salmon on our last visit. Nevertheless, we ended up devouring 34 pieces of sushi and three appetizers split among four people, three of whom had also ordered entrees. Hashimi ($7) — tiny bits of shrimp encased by crisply fried slices of shitake mushroom — were a universal hit. We also enjoyed sharing a bowl of cold Edamame ($3.50) — fresh soybeans you extract from their shells — as well as half-dozen Gyoza ($4) — pot-sticker dumplings nicely browned with a whiff of wood smoke. Neophytes can start out easily with California Roll ($4) — tiny bits of avocado, crab and cucumber rolled in rice — or the Murray Avenue Roll ($5) that features salmon, avocado and cream cheese encased by rice enlivened by tiny fish eggs. The latter is an Asian twist on lox and cream cheese. It’s potentially comforting and familiar for beginners but those accustomed to traditional sushi may find it a weird combination of tastes and textures. Also beginner friendly is the Sunrise Spider Roll ($12.75) that’s filled with scary-looking spikes that are actually benign — deep-fat fried bits of crunchy soft-shell crab and soft green avocado. Experienced sushi eaters will enjoy the Amaebi ($3.75) four raw, sweet shrimp only moments from the tank that come with a bonus — the heads are cooked, then presented separately in their shells. Our most fervent sushi aficionado also enjoyed the Tako ($2.75) — large pieces of resistant but luscious octopus and the yellow tail and scallion roll ($4.25). There’s also good news for fish lovers not yet ready to make the leap to raw. Chaya is equally capable of serving up cooked fish. Its broiled fish entree varies in price depending on what the fish of the day is. On a recent evening the offering was Black Cod ($13 a la carte). The piece that arrived was small but plump and exquisitely broiled with a light teriyaki glaze. The buttery flesh yielded obligingly to the gentle urging of chopsticks and proved a delightful centerpiece for a larger meal. All these healthy, low-fat dishes would seem to provide the perfect opportunity to splurge on a rich, high-calorie dessert. But none appear on the otherwise extensive menu. With the holiday season of overindulgence in full swing elsewhere, it may be an additional reason to visit Chaya. Additional Information:

Details

Chaya Japanese Cuisine Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays. Entree price range: $10-$45, kaiseki by reservation $55-$75 per person. Notes: No reservations, except for kaiseki. Bring your own bottle policy. Corkage fee is $2 per glass. Location: 2104 Murray Ave., Squirrel Hill. Details: 412-422-2082.

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