Jerome Bettis' Grille 36 offers hearty fare
We've all seen the evidence that Mama Bettis knows how to feed a crowd -- even if that crowd is a party of one.
So it comes as no surprise that famed son Jerome's new restaurant would follow his mother's lead and offer hefty, hungry-man portions of appealing food.
Jerome Bettis' Grille 36, not quite in the shadow of Heinz Field, is comfortably situated on the river's edge of the North Shore between the football stadium and PNC Park. Its expansive patio has proven to be a popular spot where diners can view river traffic and city lights reflecting off the Allegheny.
Inside, Grille 36 is an upscale sports bar with two dining rooms leading off a centered, nearly football-shaped bar with service on all sides. In all directions, flat-screen TVs show a variety of sports programming. The booths in the back of each dining room hold mini-tableside versions.
The look is stylishly industrial with clean lines, bare wood floors in the bar area, and metal touches. Even the bathroom is done up in a sophisticated manner with tile walls in a rusted metal patina and under-lighted sink counters. Carefully subdued lighting forbids those on the outside to see in -- except for a few ghostly appearances -- while those inside can keep up with the sports-related or boyfriend-related action.
A list of 20 sandwiches includes a variety of bulky 8-ounce burgers ($7.95-$8.45), batter-dipped and deep-fried hoagies ($7.95) and a quarter-pound Grilled Cheese and Tomato ($5.95). But more moderate eaters can fill up on the lighter Grilled Mediterranean Chicken Wrap ($7.95) or Chicken Caesar Club ($7.95) on a multigrain bun.
Large appetizers could easily be paired with a salad for a simple dinner or lunch.
Sliced, flash-fried and stacked like Lincoln logs, the Portabella Fritters ($7.95) are a crunch-edged version of our favorite fungus. Horseradish sauce and a charred chipotle ketchup compete for dipping attention.
Pacific Rim Tuna Rolls ($7.95) resemble oversized, flash-fried-to-a-crisp eggrolls, filled with Asian slaw and rare Ahi tuna. They're sliced open to reveal the beautiful pink fish inside. It's paired with ponzu dipping sauce and a wasabi drizzle for a sinus-clearing kick.
The dinner plate-sized serving of Mini Pierogies ($6.95) must include about 20 of the little darlings. Baked to a slight crisp, the cheese-and-potato-stuffed pierogies are served with sour cream and scallions. Perfect finger food.
Another choice is the Charred Tomato Bruschetta ($6.95). Build them yourself by loading the Parmesan crostinis with the mixture of charred tomatoes and black olives. And be sure to add the sweet balsamic reduction and basil oil.
Salads are served a la carte.
Apple and Blue Cheese Salad ($7.95) comes with a about a pound of fresh baby spinach -- could even Popeye handle this much⢠-- topped with sliced Granny Smith apples, candied walnuts, bleu cheese and a sherry bacon vinaigrette.
Fresh mozzarella and thick slices of tomatoes -- drizzled with balsamic reduction -- layer the equally huge bed of baby spinach in the colorful Caprice Salad ($8.95).
The Caesar Salad ($6.95 for large, $3.95 for small) is built from hearts of romaine, garlic-and-Parmesan croutons and shaved Parmesan, tossed with Caesar dressing. Cool, crisp, classic.
From the entrees, The 36 ($49.95), a 36-ounce, bone-in New York strip is a monster of "I'll bet you can't" and "I dare you" action. It's kind of fun to watch the struggle between man and beast from across the dining room.
But those who know their own strengths can enjoy the less extreme portions of the 8-ounce Center Cut Filet ($22.95) or the Grid Iron Steak ($16.95). Each is served with garlic mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus.
Pure comfort, the Ultimate Mac and Cheese ($13.95) begins with curly cavatappi pasta, adds a creamy four-cheese sauce dotted with bacon and tomatoes, and is baked with a crunchy gratin topping.
Plan on carting home half of the giant-sized Homemade Meatloaf ($12.95), stuffed with cheddar cheese. The sides include mashed potatoes, green beans, onion strings and au jus.
On a more sophisticated level, Blackened Ahi Tuna ($17.95) presents Cajun-spiced rare tuna on a bed of Creole rice with green beans, mushrooms and red peppers.
An attractive and pleasing dish, the Black and Gold Lobster Raviolis ($18.95) is made of ravioli rounds imprinted with black stripes. A bit corny as a visual, but winning in flavor. The sweet lobster and cheese filling works well with the sherry and lemon cream sauce. Crunchy fried leeks and red peppers add interest.
Intended for two, the One Pound Towering Carrot Cake ($8.95) is a humungous wedge of carrot cake with layers of cream cheese icing -- and a 36 sprayed on the side with whipped cream.
Baked in-house with fresh pineapple, a misguided chef chose to place it upon raw, shredded carrots. Cute, but who wants crunchy carrots interfering with the creamy sweet quality of dessert⢠Our carrot cake was quite delicious -- a few hours after we brought it home and thawed it out. We couldn't dig into the frozen hunk with standard flatware.
Better in its intended frozen form -- and perfect on a hot summer evening -- is the Coffee Caramel Crunch Pie ($7.95). Rich coffee ice cream is textured with chewy smashed Oreo cookies and crunchy shattered Heath bars. The whole thing is drizzled with warm caramel sauce to begin the melting process.
But our favorite dessert of all is the Oatmeal and Raisin Bread Pudding ($7.95). This elegant sweet is just the right size, temperature and density. Constructed from flaky croissants rather than day-old bread, this version of bread pudding is much lighter. Oatmeal and raisins complete the recipe. Caramel glaze and whipped cream top this hot-from-the-oven dessert.
We recommend visiting Grille 36 in off-peak hours to get the full attention of the kitchen and waitstaff. There's no reason to tax your patience with slow service on crowded weekends or game days. The waitresses are personable and attractive in their layered black and gold spandex. (Is a tan part of the job requirement?) But most are young and obviously inexperienced. Give yourself a break while they're in training and visit early in the week.
Ticket restaurant reviewers visit restaurants anonymously. They pay in full for all food, wines and services. Interviews are done only after meals and services have been appraised.
Additional Information:
Jerome Bettis' Grille 36
Cuisine: American
Entree price range: $10.95-$49.95
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 11 a.m.-midnight Fridays and Saturdays. The bar remains open until midnight Sundays- Thursdays, until 2 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays,
Notes: Full bar; wine list; no reservations accepted; Outdoor dining, weather permitting; children's menu available; major credit cards
Address: 393 North Shore Drive, North Shore
Details: 412-224-6287
