Kleiner Deutschmann offers authentic German cuisine

The "little German man" isn't so little anymore. He's 20 years old and gets better with age.

It's been 20 years since chef Chuck Spix opened Kleiner Deutschmann -- which translates to "little German man" -- in a Victorian house in Springdale that he inherited five years earlier from his German-born parents. He was born on the third floor of the house, initially owned by his grandparents, also German immigrants.

One step into the foyer of the restaurant puts patrons into a flavorful world of wursts, schnitzel, kraut and -- if there's room -- luscious pastries. The surroundings feature eye-dazzling collections of German steins, plates, mugs and Hummels that combine to make a cozy European atmosphere worthy of the Chancellor.

Make sure to look along the walls in the front dining room for "wall pockets," which were used in olden days as storage places for ladies jewelry and scarves. Spix says he's been told the building is about 200 years old.

"I was a chef in a German restaurant in Manhattan for many years," says Spix, adding that the inheritance gave him a chance to return home. "I didn't want to sell this place, so I just went right into making it into a restaurant."

Over the years, the menu of authentic German specialties has changed very little. The signature dish is a huge veal or pork shank. Raspberry duck and Jaegerschnitzel are two popular items, says co-owner and partner Dick Tetreault, who handles front-of-the-house duties.

"Everything sells well," he says, from the marinated herring to the luscious pastries and desserts. Regulars are addicted to roast pork tenderloin, potato pancakes, homemade spaetzle and authentic gravies, as well as a selection of domestic and European beers and international wines.

Spix says he was trained in German cuisine by an Austrian chef in New York City, where he worked for her in a German restaurant for 30 years. She ventured to Pittsburgh to help him open Kleiner Deutschmann.

"She was a tough teacher," he says, laughing. "Everybody here was scared of her."

Kleiner Deutschmann is hard to miss -- it is painted in shocking pink and accented with purple, gold, brown, blue, maroon and burgundy. The windows are outlined in white.

"We were up in New England and were driving through the woods when we saw this house painted pink," says Tetreault. "It just glowed."

"I said, 'That's the color,'" says Spix. At its onset, the restaurant was beige, then blue. "It's an attraction, almost like a gimmick." For touchups, the owners rely on computerized paint matches.

Kleiner Deutschmann is divided into several small dining rooms on the first floor, with a small bar just off the front foyer. Spix says he has preserved the decor his family developed over the generations. And he still cooks using his grandmother's iron skillets.

Spix -- aided in the kitchen by assistant chef Gerda Medina -- turned 75 years old on Super Bowl Sunday.

Ready to retire?

"I never will," he says.

Kleiner Deutschmann, 643 Pittsburgh St. (Freeport Road), Springdale, is open from 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays. Details: 724-274-5022.

Executive chef/co-owner Chuck Spix, of Kleiner Deutschmann restaurant, in Springdale, can't begin to estimate how much schnitzel he's served during five decades of being a chef. This recipe indicates how much veal to cut and cook for one serving. If you are making multiple portions, let the vegetable oil reheat before frying the remaining pieces of meat. Spix previously shared his recipes for hot potato salad and red cabbage with Cooking Class, but they deserve reprinting, because that's what comes with the Weinerschnitzel.

Wienerschnitzel

• Whole or part of a veal tenderloin
• All-purpose flour
• 1 or 2 large eggs, beaten
• Fine dry bread crumbs
• Vegetable oil
• Lemon wedge
• Hot Potato Salad ( recipe follows )
• Red Cabbage ( recipe follows )

Using a sharp knife, cut into the veal to make a slice about 1/4-inch thick, but do not go through the bottom of the meat. Instead, move the knife about 1/4-inch from the first cut and slice all the way through to butterfly the portion ( see Photo A ). The piece should weigh about 6 ounces total.

Make a couple of small triangular cuts where the slices join and lay the meat flat on a cutting board or kitchen counter. Using the waffle pattern side of a meat mallet, pound the meat to tenderize and flatten it, at least as thin as 1/8 inch ( Photo B ).

Place the flour into a shallow dish. Next to it, pour the eggs into a shallow bowl or plate and do the same with the bread crumbs in another dish.

Place the wienerschnitzel in the flour to coat, then in the egg wash ( Photo C ). Press it into the bread crumbs. After coating with the bread crumbs, use the heel of your hand to press the crumbs gently into the meat so they adhere uniformly.

Meanwhile, heat several inches of vegetable oil in a deep-sided iron skillet to about 365 degrees. Gently ease the meat horizontally into the hot oil ( Photo D ) and cook quickly, only about 20 seconds for each side, or until golden brown. Let drain. Place on a dinner plate and garnish with a lemon wedge.

Hot Potato Salad

• 2 to 3 pounds potatoes
• Water
• 1 cup white vinegar
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon celery salt
• 3/4 teaspoon dried basil
• 2 tablespoons dried parsley
• Real bacon bits, to taste

In a large pan, boil the potatoes in water to cover. Drain and slice the potatoes -- do not dice. Set aside and cover to keep warm.

In a medium bowl, combine the vinegar, oil, salt, pepper, celery salt, basil, parsley and bacon bits; mix thoroughly. Pour over the potatoes while they still are warm. Mix, then reheat until hot.

Makes 4 servings.

Red Cabbage

• 1 can or jar (10 ounces) pickled red cabbage
• 2 tablespoons brown sugar
• 1/4 cup white vinegar
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

In a pan, heat the red cabbage. As it heats, mix the remaining ingredients, then stir into the cabbage. Heat through and serve.

Makes 2 servings.