Kleiner Deutschmann's German cuisine draws tourists

You can't miss Kleiner Deutschmann restaurant in Springdale.

The vivid pink Victorian house at Pittsburgh Street and Murtland Avenue looks like an oversized dollhouse. Step inside, and you are transported to a German cafe crammed with authentic, hand-painted German steins, mugs, plates, glasses, Hummel figures and other antiques and artifacts from the old country.

The brightly colored items compete for attention with the flowered wallpaper, lace curtains and brilliantly adorned Christmas trees.

Meaning "little German man" in German, Kleiner Deutschmann, with 55 seats, has barely enough room for moving around, yet it doesn't feel cramped. Owners Chuck Spix and Dick Tetreault have turned their restaurant into a popular spot, with dishes such as jaeger schnitzel, their signature veal entree served with mushrooms and a sauerbraten gravy.

Spix, the chef, says their restaurant is the only one in the Pittsburgh area that features only German cuisine. "I had a German restaurant in New York, then I moved here," he says. "This is my grandparents' house. We've been here 16 years."

The restaurant serves imported German beers and various wines to go with the authentic dishes; Spix adds that their place is very popular with tourists. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays, it is closed on Sundays and Mondays. Reservations are required for dinner, but the restaurateurs don't turn away walk-ins.

On weekends, they typically serve 150 dinners a night.

"We get people from Germany, Russia, England, Mexico City, Florida, New York City, Texas, Louisiana, Wyoming and lots from Pennsylvania," Spix says, reading from the guest book entries. "We don't advertise except for a commercial on TV."

Spix is known for his red cabbage side dish, but he is almost embarrassed to share his secret. "It's canned," he says with a sheepish smile.

Well, not really. The red cabbage comes from a can, but Spix dresses it up with brown sugar, vinegar and cinnamon and serves it heated, not boiled.

In Spix's immaculately clean kitchen — an area so spotless it received an award from the county Board of Health for the cleanest restaurant — the chef showed Cooking Class readers how to make his medallions of veal dish, served with hot potato salad and red cabbage.

This easy-to-make recipe goes well with a robust German beer or red wine.

Sauerbraten gravy mix can be bought in grocery stores. Knorr is a common brand.

• 12 ounces veal, thinly sliced
• All-purpose flour, for dredging
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1/4 tablespoon paprika
• 2 ounces ( 1/4 cup) prepared sauerbraten gravy
• 4 ounces ( 1/2 cup) heavy cream
• 1 ounce canned mushrooms, drained
• Hot Potato Salad (recipe follows)
• Red Cabbage (recipe follows)

Pound the veal into medallions <!-- ( see Photo 1, below ) --> . Dredge them in flour.

In a sauté pan, heat the oil; when hot, place the veal in the pan. Cook the meat very quickly on both sides, just for a couple of minutes. Add the paprika, the sauerbraten gravy and heavy cream <!-- ( Photo 2 ) --> and stir for a couple more minutes.

Add the mushrooms <!-- ( Photo 3 ) --> and stir through. Serve with Hot Potato Salad and Red Cabbage.

Makes 2 servings.

• 2 to 3 pounds potatoes
• 1 cup white vinegar
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon celery salt
• 3/4 teaspoon dried basil
• 2 tablespoons dried parsley
• Bacon bits, to taste

In a large pan, boil the potatoes, drain, and slice them (do not dice). In a medium bowl, combine the vinegar, oil, salt, pepper, celery salt, basil, parsley and bacon bits; mix thoroughly. Pour over the still-warm potatoes and mix. Heat until hot.

Makes 4 servings.

• 1 (10-ounce) can or jar pickled red cabbage
• 2 tablespoons brown sugar
• 1/4 cup white vinegar
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Heat the cabbage in a pan on the stovetop. As it heats, mix the remaining ingredients, then add to the cabbage. Heat through and serve.

Makes 2 servings.