Lidia's takes up residence in the Strip

We were thrilled to no end when we heard Lidia Matticchio Bastianich was bringing a restaurant to Pittsburgh.

At last, we thought, her wonderful northern Italian fare blended with Slavic and German cuisine would be available in a restaurant we wouldn't have to travel to New York City to sample. Lidia's opened at 1400 Smallman St. in the Strip District in March.

We finally made our visit last week and were pleased with what we found. Lidia's Pittsburgh was designed by architect David Rockwell to resemble the warehouses along Smallman Street.

Inside, it's another story. The focal point - and heart - of the cavernous interior is a gray slate-covered, wood-burning fireplace which reaches the ceiling. And from that ceiling hang two enormous, hand-blown glass grape-cluster chandeliers that must be 6 feet long and 4 feet across. They cast an amber glow onto cream-colored walls.

The tables are dressed in white linen finery, and groupings of tables are separated by slate dividing walls thatmatch that monumental fireplace.

But if you are impressed by the accoutrements, wait until you taste the food. Bastianich, of the PBS series 'Lidia's Italian Table,' brings wonderful fare to Pittsburgh, starting with the basket of bread that's brought to the table accompanied by two zesty spreads - garbanzo with pesto and cannellini bean with olive puree - just as you are seated. We were hooked the moment we sampled these garlicky delights.

From the Antipasti choices we opted for the Frico ($7). This specialty of the Friuli region of Italy is a heavenly envelope of golden-brown, crisp Montasio cheese with a wild mushroom, potato and leek filling.

The Calamari Fritti ($6.50) featured rings of tender calamari and spears of zucchini lightly battered and fried to a light, golden brown, served with a spicy tomato sauce and mixed greens dressed with lemon.

Cozze alla Triestina ($7) featured a huge plateful of at least 18 mussels with garlic, onion, zucchini, Tocal wine, fresh thyme and olive oil. There were delicious garlic toasts to sop up the zippy broth.

Prosciutto e Parmigiano-Reggiano con Bruschetta alla Marmelata di Fichi ($8) consisted of a plateful of traditional Italian Prosciutto ham and salty chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, served with grilled country bread spread with sweet house-made fig preserves. There was enough here to serve as an entree - and soooo good.

The Insalata menu provided us with three fine salad choices. Insalata Cesare alla Lidia ($5.50) was a classic Caesar salad of tender romaine lettuce hearts seasoned with mustard, a bit of anchovy, imported Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and crisp Parmesan croutons. This salad was delicious, but so plentiful we couldn't finish it.

We had no trouble, however, scarfing the Insalata di Bietole al Forno e Caprino ($7.50), an unusual combination of sweet beets and tart Granny Smith apples tossed in a red wine vinaigrette and served over sliced beets and the thinnest of apple rings, accompanied by the mildest, smoothest, most incredible goat cheese. A true inspiration.

The Insalata di Rucula con Gorgonzola (7.50) featured fresh, crisp arugula with roasted walnuts and chunks of Gorgonzola cheese drizzled with a white wine vinaigrette. This salad was so large, again, we couldn't finish our portion.

Then it was on to the entrees. The Zuppa di Pesce ($17) was a richly flavored broth, which supported a plethora of spectacular seafoods including calamari, shrimp, scallops and fish fillets served with crispy toasts to dip in the succulent broth. The seafoods were done perfectly; no over-cooking here. How important is Lidia's proximity to Wholey's• The restaurant is right under the blinking eye of Wholey's neon fish.

Gnocchi is a favorite of one of our diners, so she couldn't resist the Gnocchi con Anitra in Guazetto ($14). This dish featured feather-light, hand-rolled potato dumplings (no sinkers here) in a rich sauce of slowly simmered duck with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

Our pasta devotee couldn't forgo the Lasagne Bolognese ($15). This hefty portion of an Italian classic featured layers of fresh spinach pasta with Fontina cheese and a rich tomato sauce. The diner was particularly impressed that this wasn't a heavy lasagna as some are - he managed to finish every bit.

Out meat lover gravitated toward the Costata di Vitello alla Griglia con Purea di Patate all'Olio ($23), a grilled veal T-bone served on a bed of garlic, olive oil mashed potatoes topped with four tender spears of asparagus in a delicate Parmesan-butter sauce. Although he had three knives tableside, this steak was so tender, he scarcely needed more than a fork to slice the juicy pieces. A winner.

Believe it or not, two of the foursome had room for dessert.

One opted for the Crispelli Farcite con Noci Chocolato ($6), a heavenly concoction of crepes with melted chocolate and walnuts with white wine-poached pears and whipped cream. The other chose the Torta di Doppia Chocolata con Cegliege al Porto ($4), a rich, moist, flourless chocolate cake served with a compote of cherries in port wine. Ohhhh! This cake was creamy and fudge-like - an ethereal experience.

Ah, Lidia's. We will return when we don't have to work for our supper.

Compiled by Barbara Daugherty and guests. Meals are paid for by the Valley News Dispatch and are unrelated to advertising.