Don't forget to stop and enjoy May's delightful flowers before they disappear. The same can be said of terrific buys on wines at PLCB stores.
The ever cagey Steve Pollack, Chairman's Selection buyer extraordinaire, has again produced a bevy of tasty, value-laden offerings. If you don't frequent the Premium Selection stores where most Chairman's Selections reside, worry not. Attractive deals exist on regularly listed wines available at most PLCB stores, too.
Before proceeding to the recommendations, let critics of the PLCB who might be tempted to launch vituperative emails to my inbox take note of the following disclaimer: My best-buy recommendations have nothing to do with my views on privatizing wine sales in Pennsylvania.
Privatizing the PLCB makes supreme sense on philosophical grounds. Passionate and knowledgeable entrepreneurs ideally should be the primary wine retailers in the Commonwealth. Who wouldn't want to pop down to a neighborhood wine shop for intelligent guidance on picking a tasty Bourgogne blanc, a fruity Dry Creek zinfandel or maybe a spicy Rioja?
Regrettably, though, privatization plans to date stack the deck against “mom and pop” wine entrepreneurs. Only deep-pocketed corporations would have the resources to purchase the proposed retail licenses projected to cost hundreds of thousands of dollars in “franchise fees” paid to the Commonwealth.
Under such plans, big-box retailers and large grocery stores would doubtlessly dominate and focus on maximizing profit margins down to the penny. Wines of personality and terroir, which by definition require more effort and expense to sell, would give way to mass produced, higher-margin selections. The French call such wines vin de technique, manufactured for consistency rather than expressing intriguing personality and singular pleasure.
These undistinguished wines typically cram retail shelves with colorful labels bearing cutesy, imbecilic animal names. Welcome to Ohio, mes amis, where a similar system already exists.
But why prattle on like a cynical curmudgeon when tasty wines await? Don't worry one iota about the politics of PLCB privatization while trying the following:
Maison Louis Jadot has long maintained a sterling reputation as one of Burgundy's top commercial négociants. As such, the firm maintains vineyards while also purchasing fruit and wine from allied growers under long-term contracts.
Such is the case with the delicious2011 Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages, France (7208; on sale: $11.99). The blended wine relies on gamay grapes from other growers' young vines and from Jadot's own vines in the top Beaujolais Cru of Regnié.
Primarily granite soils put this wine a step above run of the mill Beaujolais. The wine's light-purple color offers blueberry- and cherry-aromas with earthy and floral nuances. Fresh, juicy red-fruit flavors with a touch of spice layer with fresh acidity and soft tannins. Pair it with a sliced baguette spread with butter and topped with thinly sliced ham, brie cheese and Dijon mustard. Recommended.
The 2009 Conti Sertoli Salis “Grumello” Valtellina Superiore, Italy (Luxury 33244; Chairman's Selection, on sale: $12.99) comes from a mountainous vineyard area due north of Milan near the Swiss Alps. Made primarily from nebbiolo grapes with a smattering of merlot, pinot noir and the obscure local grapes, rossola and brugnola, the grapes' vines toil on rocky, terraces with good sun exposure and excellent drainage.
After cold fermentation, the wine ages in older oak casks to lend elegant tannins and structure. The limpid-ruby color unfolds red-cherry and violet aromas with notes of brown spices. Fresh red-fruit flavors meld with bright acidity and light earthy notes through a dry, but fruity, finish. Pair it with polenta with mushrooms, grated sharp cheese and truffle oil. Highly recommended.
The 2012 Argei Cannonau di Sardegna, Italy (Luxury 32983; $12.99) comes from Sardinia, a rocky Mediterranean island blanketed by olive trees and vines. Cooling sea breezes sweep the landscape to counter the sun's blistering effects.
This wine uses cannonau grapes, a close cousin of France's grenache. The dusty-ruby color offers ripe, jammy aromas with hints of thyme and lavender. Delicious dark-fruit flavors with smoky, gamey notes balance with good acidity. Firm, but smooth, tannins make a good match with grilled flank steak. Recommended.
Dave DeSimone writes about wine for Trib Total Media. He can be reached at ddesimone@tribweb.com.
